MIG wire feed set up

Just can't seem to get the wire feed consistent on my SIP MIG 130 Turbo. It's new (not used but had a few months)

Everywhere I read seems to say take the wire out from under the roll of wire, not the top, but it seems better from the top. Just as I seem to have improved the consistency I ran out of gas!!

Anyway, any tips appreciated

Cheers
Andy

I've just ditched a SIP in favour of a Clarke welder. Basically, the SIP seems to be weaker all round - I took the torch apart in a vain attempt to fix it and its just cheapo components and plasic bits in there, the trigger relies of a piece of plastic bending (mine stuck on). The wire feed is not so good either, I did a bit of research and its a common issue.

One tip could be - unclamp the wire feel rollers and see how easy it is to pull the wire through - it should be easy with little/no resistance. If its not, then you have an issue with the flexi. SIP uses a plastic wire feed inner tube, where most other welders use a metal one. You can swap it, a new inner costs around ?5. But you can't do much with the weedy wirefeed motor.

Another issue could be rusty wire. Maybe its worth unwinding a couple of metres and ensuring its free of rust. In preparation for this, I'm using the little one in the welder day-to-day and I've taken my 5kg reel out and storing it in the dry in the house, so it doesn't rust.

Could just be shoddy wire, I had problems with wire feed exactly as you descride Andy. The wire (from B&Q) looked like it wasn't wound onto the reel properly. I got some new wire from Machine Mart and had no further problems. I'm using a SIP 170, very good semi-pro welder, which uses the larger reels.

Cheers

Mark, just out of interest, how are you plugging in your 170? I bought a 150A and it says not to fit a 13A plug onto it, it needs 15A mains. And I'm welding at the bottom of the garden, so I have a spur coming off a plug socket (directly wired) to the outside cable, then it goes into a socket, then a 13A 4-way, then the welder. Only used it on power setting 1 & 2 out of 6 so far tho. Maybe I'll get loads of voltage drop, or blow fuses, when I turn it up?

Came with a 13 amp plug ready fitted, so running it straight off the mains. Not had any problems, usually have it on 1/2, occasionally 3 for thick steel. Also welded up a 3mm garage door hinge with it on 4 and no problems.  

Integrated chassis for gas bottle too!!! Nice!

Yes, it's a good bit of kit. Got it about 4 years ago mail order from http://www.worldofpower.co.uk/ . Was looking at 150amp welders, but they had a sale on at the time and got the 170 for about ?250 reduced from ?380. Knew it was a powerful one, but was a bit shocked at the size of it when it turned up

I have an SIP 150 and its very poor. Like Paul said it seems to be weak. Just converted to euro tourch as well with little improvment.

Looked at the motor that drives the wire through the other day - seen bigger motors in radio control cars! Will be changing this next.

Robmk1 said

I have an SIP 150 and its very poor. Like Paul said it seems to be weak. Just converted to euro tourch as well with little improvment.

Looked at the motor that drives the wire through the other day - seen bigger motors in radio control cars! Will be changing this next.

If you don't mind me asking, how did you fit a Euro torch and did it cost a lot of money to do? I need to sort out a torch on my old welder, then I could sell in on eBay or something. Can't really sell it as-is.

On the SIP, the hole where the 'normal' torch comes through the case is the size of the connector for the euro torch. Have a look at the 170 that pictured above (same as 150)

Need a kit like this.

http://www.welduk.com/Details.asp?ProductID=290

I bought mine off ebay as a complete kit for about ?50.

Your case may not be the same though but im sure you could modify it.

Wire is new so its not rusty wire!

I've got a couple of reels - I'll check if any are different and try them

take out the wire feed liner and blow through with compressed air as crud can build up in liner and restrict wire feed, have you changed or cleaned the tip? is tip the right size for wire as it should be the next size up from wire ie 0.8 wire= 0.9 tip.

A5OPY said

take out the wire feed liner and blow through with compressed air as crud can build up in liner and restrict wire feed, have you changed or cleaned the tip? is tip the right size for wire as it should be the next size up from wire ie 0.8 wire= 0.9 tip.

to be honest no, it's a 0.8mm tip I think on 0.8 wire - didn't realise you could get 0.9?

Shouldn't be any crud in the feed - its new!!

didn't have the feed cabling wrapped around the welder?

done this with mine which has twisted the feed liner so it only works properly at certain angles   makes things interesting to say the least

Hairyarse said

A5OPY said

take out the wire feed liner and blow through with compressed air as crud can build up in liner and restrict wire feed, have you changed or cleaned the tip? is tip the right size for wire as it should be the next size up from wire ie 0.8 wire= 0.9 tip.

to be honest no, it's a 0.8mm tip I think on 0.8 wire - didn't realise you could get 0.9?

Shouldn't be any crud in the feed - its new!!

Machine Mart do them if you think about it trying to get a wire of 0.8 through a hole the same size will be very tight i did commercial mig welding for 12 yrs and the tips we used were always that one size bigger best of luck.

I did have a SIP 150 mig Turbo (turbo meaning fan cooling), and I'm sorry that I sold it, a mate of mine pestered me to death to part with it and I let it go. Plenty powerful enough for car welding. What I did notice is that the same product (although rebranded) is currently selling in B&Q for just over 100 pounds.

Spent the day prepping and welding today, I've got to say what used to be something I dreaded (something would always go wrong!) is now a pleasure. I'm not an expert but I think the Clarke either varies the current, voltage, or wire speed (or a combination of these) to start off the weld, which means they end up nice and smooth. Or maybe its the wire (I'm using the one supplied with the machine) thats a different, more compliant material? Or that the torch better directs the gas flow (the gas is the same as before). Anyway, now I have the confidence to weld something and know its solid. I did repair patches on the floor and inner sill earlier, today I cut off the outer sill and I had the luxury of doubling up the seam welds previously done, on the 'other' side. Even welding upside down went fine today!

So don't give up but feel free to blame your tools every now and again.

Make sure the steel you're welding is very clean(take your time, don't rush to clean up) the shield on the nozzle is clean, plenty of gas, correct wire speed and amps. Practice all day an scrap steel and remember to reverse the steel to check for penetration and believe me it will become second nature.

Thanks again for the advice

Ref the cheaper welder in B&Q, guessing it was a yellow Cosmo unit? The chap I bought my MIG from was ex-SIP. He said the case is the same as the SIP MIG but internals from China and cheaper, whereas the SIP was Italian?

Not sure if true or not, I thought everything was made in China nowadays!!

Possibly, but the units do look the same along with the nozzle, the amps are the same along with the instruction manual. Looks to be rebranded but thats only IMO, so you need to do your own research before buying.