VW mk1 loose strut?

Hi guys. I have a problem with my mk1 golf. Both front struts got vertical play in the strut mounts, I first thought that it might be the nuts that came loose but to my surprise they are fully tightened. I noticed this today when I jacked up the car with the front wheels in the air to check for play in the suspension. I get a slight knocking noise up front when going over speed bumps or uneven road surfaces. The car has FEBI strut mounts, not sure how old they are as I have bought the car about 3 weeks ago but they don't look that old to me. Please check video below. Any advice would be appreciated.
https://youtu.be/aod5grdwsEY

Under the nut should be a little tube spacer, not sure it would create your symptoms, but I have seen them missing before,  and pretty easy to check..

Thanks, I have checked and the tube spacer is in place. Really confused with this problem.

The inner Strut bushing that the insert goes in to, may have to be filed even with your mount.  

I have seen that on a mount that had the inner strut bushing that was taller than the flat of the mounting cup, so while the strut tightened, it wasn't fully seated on the mount as it was up a tad.

I would suggest removing the wheel and jacking the car up then supporting and hacking the strut to see what's moving under load or you could be chasing the noise for ages. 

There should be a washer underneath the nut but looking at your strut top it may be at the end of its life, when the cars on the ground how much gap is there between the metal disc and rubber? Maybe post up a picture?

Part No10 in this picture.

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/golf+cabriolet/goc/1988-44/4/411-102000/

Thanks for all the help and advice guys. Much appreciated. It seems that once there is weight on the struts the play/movement is gone. I've read somewhere that VW mounts are designed like that, once the car is jacked up in the air it is normal for the struts to have some play because the bushing pulls out of the mount? Not sure if it's true or not as this is my first VW. I would really appreciate it a lot if someone could confirm this for me.

Thanks Mark1gls. I have fitted the washer but it is still the same. As for the gap, it is pretty large. Not sure how much is it supposed to be?  

One way to extend the life of new to you mounts, and to prevent what happened to me once when the new mounts studs stripped in the hole…



It wasn't fun, but when the pressed stud spun in the hole as I as installing it,  I had to worm my Wire-Welder up the inside of the strut to the stud.  I had my son hold the nutted stud up, and tack welded it in place which allowed me to remove the strut assembly, then properly tack weld both pressed studs.

About a week and a half before I replaced them I filled the bottom gap with 3m Window Weld… made the ride a tad higher, and a little stiffer, but if it lasts a tad longer I am fine with that.

Thanks for the tip Briano. I have decided to buy new shocks and mounts. Looks like I will need new inner tie rods aswell.  I will fill the mounts with window weld and do the tack welding on the studs as you suggested.
 

The strut tops/mounts have some life in them still but when new there is no gap between the metal top plate and rubber and as time goes on and pot holes etc the gap increases.
Rule of thumb is if the gap is bigger than your thumb then it's time for a change.

Get Febi strut mounts and avoid Meyle as the Meyle ones I tired lasted 6 months and 4 months of that the car was just sat in the garage!

If fitting new strut mounts you may need to undo the 2 bolts which hold the strut on and this is upset the camber and you will need to reset this which involves either a garage visit with the right kit and about £70 of your money…

You can do it in your garage with a gauge and support the car on the wish bone as the car needs to be sat on the floor and level to get the reading then with the wheel removed you can adjust the camber.

I've just just set mine and tried a different method. Make sure all the tyre pressures are correct.
I've got an adjustable gauge (set the gauge to 0 using a level) and with the car on level ground I get a reading by placing a level on the edge of the wheel and the camber gauge say "2 degrees" then jack up the car, remove the wheel and place the camber gauge on the hub then adjust the camber gauge to read "2 degrees " then adjust the camber to 1 degree" refit wheel and lower the car, take it for a quick drive then check the setting once back on level ground.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Magnetic-Alignment-Gauge-Castor-Camber-Scale-Wheel-Tool-Vehicle-Set/262132295571?epid=11005359202&hash=item3d084d6793:g:-HYAAOSwLoxa2VJd

Part 2…..

The play in the strut is the metal ring/spacer (part 9) is a crush ring/spacer but I've never been able to crush them when doing up the nut so I file/grind them down a little so not much play and pack them with grease seems to help.

Spacers look like this when removed.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK1-CABRIO-SCIROCCO-CADDY-STRUT-SHOCK-TOP-MOUNT-SPACER-SLEEVE-x-2-C02/221277166691?epid=1627179830&hash=item3385259c63:g:-3cAAMXQtRxSJKQI

With the car on the floor you can undo the nut and with a couple of screw drives or pliers remove the metal spacer and file/grind some of it, then replace it and do up the nut, jack the car up and place something underneath the wheel (I use the trolly jack bar) and lift it up a couple of times and listen look for the play you have in your YouTube clip, if still there grind a little bit more off and try again, once it near and you are Happy pack the mount with grease and refit the metal spacer.
Don't go mad grinding down the spacer or you will close the gap to much and it will pinch the strut mount and it will bind on the mount when turning the steering.

Make sure you don't lift the car with the nut off or the spring etc will all fall off.

I guess you have the Allen key to hold the shock and angled ring spanner or open sided socket to undo the nut?

You will need spring compressors for changing the strut mounts.

I think that's everything…..   

I can't see a little bit of play being a problem when the car is use, unless jumping hump-backed bridges all day!

I seem to remember when I changed the front shocks on the MK2 I had as a daily driver the upper mount relies on the weight of the car to remain in place and flops about when the car is jacked up enough to get the front wheel off the ground? There's just a retaining plate to stop the strut dropping into the wheel well?

Thanks Mark1gls for the great info and advice, it is much appreciated. I am planning to do the tie rods as well while I'm at it. Luckily we have a reputable alignment shop close by so I will take the car to them for alignment once everything is fitted

How to change the struts without breaking alignment.

Break the torque of the axle nut with the car down on the ground and loosen slightly, I SAID SLIGHTLY

Remove the Brake Carrier with caliper and brakes, remove the rotor as well, that is 2 17mm bolts and suspend it via a Wire as you don't want the weight of the thing hanging by the hose. I usually use the hose bracket that is welded to the inner fender.

Remove the pinch bolt / nut from the lower control arm to ball joint.
Remove the Tie rod from the spindle.

Pry the lower control arm off the strut tube.
Remove the 2 nuts that hold the strut mount to the strut tower.

Remove the axle nut, and push the axle out of the spindle.

Remove the strut as an assembly and you don't mess up any alignment.

If you want to break the two camber bolts first.

Buy a large magnetic angle gauge, and attach that to your rotor, make sure that you mark the position of the strut tube to the spindle first.

Attach the Angle gauge to the rotor, and wright down that angle that it is sitting at in sharpie on the rotor.



new improved easier to read.


You can then reset your camber and save a trip to the alignment shop.