Front tie rods, wishbone, what a day need time out

Hi chaps what a day I've had, I decided to get the car on the axle stands today to change the tie rods and anti roll bar bushes, wow it's been a struggle to be honest I managed to get the drivers side tie rod off with heat in the end  but when I looked at the passenger side the tie rod looks totally different, in fact I can't even see a thread on the bar , I managed to get the tie rod off with heat but cannot unscrew it, I've a bad feeling about it, hope you can help guys.
Another issue I've had is when removing the the anti roll bar the (2 brackets under the car) when undoing the bolt one snapped so half the bolt is sticking out, any suggestions guys?,

1 last thing how does the wishbones remove from the wheel hub??

Last first, remove bolt from bottom of hub assy, wish bone may require a tap or two to come away.   Originally the track rod on one side had the ball joint fixed, it wasnt removeable.  The remaining thread on mounting will require drilling/grinding out and a new thread ( an old bolt for example) welding in…

Thanks pal the tie rod that wasn't removable really needs to be changed now as I've used heat in order to remove it ,the new tie rods which I hoped to fit was the same as the drivers side so I presumed that they would unscrew once disconnected, question is to proceed now??, the wishbone has been a real pain .   I disconnected the nut and attempted to remove, but no matter how much force it's jammed stuck, I made a prybar heated smacked with a hammer it won't budge. Any ideas ??

You mean you cannot remove the bolt?  have you just tried turning it with a spanner, if it turns it should knock out. As for the track rods just fit an adjustable one to the fixed side,  just make sure you set its length to the same as the fixed one or it might make setting the tracking difficult…

abfmk1 said

You mean you cannot remove the bolt?  have you just tried turning it with a spanner, if it turns it should knock out. As for the track rods just fit an adjustable one to the fixed side,  just make sure you set its length to the same as the fixed one or it might make setting the tracking difficult…

  first off pal thanks for the speedy reply, thought I may get an answer pretty quick guess there still plenty on furlough, I've removed the nut and bolt and tried countless options to remove but it's jammed, thought I was doing something wrong I've tried everything pal just need a few fresh ideas as it's totally knackered now. The problem with the non adjustable tie rod is I can't remove it from the rod I've mark the rod and also marked a price of wire just in case when I get the grips on the rod it just turns there's no where to get good purchase as it round any ideas ??

Not furlough, just retired.  Have you tried tapping the end of a flat (appropriate thickness) screw driver into the gap between the 2 halves to open it slightly..

Yes tried tried that think I will try and fabricate a screwdriver with a thicker end tomorrow, think it's the only way pal, going back to the tie rod any suggestions?

On some Cabriolets, and First edition Golfs/Rabbits and mk1 the like.  They had a one-piece fixed Inner and outer Tie-rod on one side and a inner, and outer tie-rod on teh other.

Later on, The Cabriolets and or Golfs could be modified to have 2 2-piece units.



like this these are just pictures…..okay.




So you can go with separate inners, and outers for both sides and still get the car adjusted…. I find them easier as it is usually the outer that goes south.

I will strongly urge you going back to slather the outer threads of the inner rod, or grease the hades out of the inside outer so that in the future you will not have an issue with getting the lock nut, or the outer tracking rod loose.

For the Alignment or tracking specialist, they are way easier to adjust…. Specially if they are lubed.

Will this fit bri

Thanks again  not sure how it's fitted but will cross that when I get to get
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283054138057

It should work just fine.  Just needs the outer end.
Buy both outers at the same time from the same vendor so they are the same make….size length, and if you can still get the ones with the Zirc fitting for grease the more better.

Thanks briano, 

Today I had a few hours so tried to remove the ball joint, my newely  tapered  flat screw driver done the job but still it need lots of damn hard persuasion to be removed the other side was a piece of cake, when trying to remove the swing arm the large bolt would not come all the way out the gear box sump looks like it's in the way so yet again another issue.
I also damaged the outer cv boot so will need to remove that,
Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated at this difficult time 😂😂😂

The lower Ball Joint I have found over the years to be a either or thing.  Either it comes out easily, or…PITA.

But I have found that the use of proper force is the key, and I always tend to do this first.  

Sorry no pictures.
Where the Pinch bolt holds the lower ball joint to the strut, after removing the bolt, I insert a screw driver in to the rear slot, and tap it twice with my 4oz Ball Peen hammer to open it a wee bit.  

I have a Crow-bar Pry-bar that I place between the control arm and either the Lowest part of the strut housing, and or the Pinch Bolt clamp, and pry the thing down till it comes out On my Cabriolets I place it between the sway bar and the control arm so I can't damage anything.  I have also increased my success with after the first time replacement of the lower ball, I clean the pinch point with a wire brush to get it shiny, then coat the clamp area, and the ball Joint with Never-seize or Copper Grease as you call it.

I make note of the position of the ball joint as the way it is pointing, and prior to re-inserting it I get it in the same general position.

I do know that on a Cabriolet with the outer sway bar clamp removed, so there isn't any tension on it that the ball joint usually separate nicely.. I also have a couple of suspension forks (pickle-forks over here) that I can get between the ball joint and the clamp and it prys out nicely, but destroys the boot of it.  So It depends on what I am doing as in replacing the ball-joint or the Strut or CV as to where I pry, the Ball, or the Sway link.  I use the Sway link when I am doing the CV or the Strut as the Ball joint needs to be re-used….I also re-coat never-seize on the things.

Think we've overlapped there.. the ball joints and lower arm are removed now but on the passenger site I can't remove the bush bolt on the front as the gearbox sump is in the way☹️☹️☹️ I also need remove the cv joint so I can change the boots. It seems to be connected with spline bolts so need to remove that and take the whole thing in the shed to repair, when removing the drivers side sway bar the m10 bolt snapped so I've only a few threads sticking out the floor.. honestly what a nightmare it has become

To get the axle nut off I usually remove it prior to disassembling anything.  With the weight of the car on the wheel I loosen the axle nut with my Impact.. ,making sure that I re-tighten it a tad, jack car The only thing I do after that is.
Remove the outer tie-rod off the spindle, Rotate the brake disk and stop it with a straight blade in the vent holes against the caliper bracket.
Loosen the 8mm ts bolts on the transmission, rotate lock loosen the next (actually remove them). rotate lock and repeat 4 more times.  

I remove the lower ball joint from the strut, then give it a yank and the axle pops out of the cup on the transmission.  Remove the axle nut and with a large number 4 Phillips I smack the inside of the cv and it usually comes out.  

Going back I align the inner cv cup, and start the bolts by hand till all are in and hand tight.  Move the whole strut assembly to get the outer in tighten the nut to hand tight, then replace the lower ball joint.  Set the Torque on the axles, and lower pinch bolt replace the outer tracking rod in the spindle and tighten….

Replace the wheel, lower car and torque the Axle Nut.

I never take the strut off the spindle assembly as that ruins the Alignment, so when I am done alls well that ends well.

I see that your lower pinch bolt is Crusty….clean that shiny, and slather a bit of copper grease on it inside as that will prevent it from rust bind in the future and make your day easier…. Also the spindle hole for the tracking rod.

I have done it this way for years on Auto's that I have now or Manuals in my past.  I even take the whole shooting match out when I change Strut Cartridges, as long as I don't disturb the Outer tracking rod or the Camber, when I am done the alignment is still there.

Remove the Brake caliper and use a wire to suspend it from the Brake hose holder on the fender (wing), Take the lower ball joint loose so the control arm is free, then Remove the 2 nuts on the strut mount and it all comes out in one piece to replace the Cartridge (yes I use compressors on the ground to get the spring tension off)..Loosen the Nut, and it all comes out…  Going back I replace everything and since I didn' t break the Camber bolts the alignment is still spot on.

I have had the Sway bar strap Break on me as well and I used a Stainless Steel U bolt to hold it in place until I could get the new sway strap ordered and installed….

Now on Auto's, use a engine support,
daffodil Photobucket….
from Imgur.


Then loosen and remove the rear transmission mount, and the passenger side mount.  Using a jacking strap (ratcheting cargo strap). you are going to have to lift the transmission about 1" to clear the control arm bolt from the pan….as that bolt is about 10inches long and won't clear the pan as there is only about 1 inch space between the pan (sump) and the head of the bolt.

You can also use a Jack and Jack the Transmission up using a block of wood between the pan and the jack but you will still need to remove the fender mount on the transmission and the rear mount….

With an engine support you don't have a jack in your way under the car…. .

I wish Pbucket would get their act together…. I suspect I should of switched over to IMGUR and re-written all my how-tos….