Drive shaft issue
Posted
#1637372
(In Topic #226858)
Settling In
Help needed..
hope someone can help me with my little issue…!
Ive replace my n/s drive shaft for a brand new item, that came pre assembled with inner and out cv joints.
Everything went fairly straight forward. However when I tried to drive off the car was not moving, after jacking the car up again I found that the wheel was locked solid..
As soon as I loosened the drive shaft 30mm nut it freed up again. I set the 30mm drive shaft nut to 230nm which felt about right. But now I feel there is an underlined issue I’m missing..
I did remember to fit the spacer on before the nut incase any of you ask. But much appreciated if anyone knows what’s going on..
ive check the new shaft against the old and they look identical, length and thread etc.
i also fitted a new bottom arm whilst it was apart but I’m guessing this shouldn’t affect it.
many thanks advance. 😬🤞🏻
Posted
Regional Host NE
against for a flat face or a tapered face for comparsion to the c/v joint behind the spline mate
Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
Posted
Settling In
Cheers for the reply .
Posted
Local Hero
If you replaced your hub bearings and used anything but the flat spring clips, that is also known to cause the same issue.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settling In
I'll check today.
Luckily I have a set of new hub bearings which come with the correct flat type circlip.
Fingers crossed this is the issue..
Posted
Settling In
So when I tighten the hub nut the body of the cv joint is touching the body of the hub buckle in stead of seating on the bearing face.
I've done a lot of google searching and found someone that added a washer to the shaft which seems to fix the issue.
Has any one done this?
I also checked the bearing circlip as some people say the wrong type can cause this issues but I have the flat (correct) fitted.
Posted
Old Timer
As Briano said, it's probably the shape of the CV joint - it's a common issue. The CV joint is binding on the hub face. I think the only option is to grind a bit off the joint (or replace the whole joint with one that is guaranteed to fit (usually the more expensive ones!).
I would be reluctant to put a washer on the inside of the bearing as in doing so you will in effect be increasing the length of the shaft, and putting pressure on components.
J
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Settling In
It says that euro wise, supply their drive shafts with “shims” to get around this issue.
The cv joint is fouling on the hub housing the same as in the link.
i purchased the only ns drive shaft available on AUTODOC. Not just buying the cheapest!
I always buy the best parts available as been caught out with cheaper parts in the past..
The os shaft I purchased was a different (more expensive) brand.
Be interesting to see if this fits?
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Local Hero
sporttrucker said
What size is your inner cv as sounds like when you try and fit the 100mm cv shaft in the 90mm hub.
I know for a fact that you can use a 90mm in a 100 housing but you can't put a 100 in a 90 housing…well you can but it won't spin.
Oh and to use a 90 in a 100 you have to change the differential cups…
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
Briano1234 said
sporttrucker said
What size is your inner cv as sounds like when you try and fit the 100mm cv shaft in the 90mm hub.
I know for a fact that you can use a 90mm in a 100 housing but you can't put a 100 in a 90 housing…well you can but it won't spin.
Oh and to use a 90 in a 100 you have to change the differential cups…
Exactly, I'm guessing the new driveshafts are because of an engine/box swap so needs 100mm inner cv
Posted
Local Hero
To get a 90mm axle inner and outer to work in a 100,, spindle you have to change the differential cups over to 90mm.
What I did when I swapped a TJ Transmission (auto) in for a (TNA) in my 93 Cabriolet was to take the axles with me and have them rebuilt…
I am lucky to have a CV rebuilder about 10 miles from my house, does a great job, I don't have the Moly B hands and he not only re-balances them for true-flight but warranties his work for 1 year the price is very easy to take, 60 quid an axle, and when my boots broke it was 25 bucks to have them replaced it was way easier and less greasier.
The easiest part is that the 90mm differential cups bolt holes are equally spaced and once you get one bolt in, all the others line up easy peasy, not like the 100's that are off set in pairs and if you get the wrong one started you don't find out till you get the next one or two in.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.