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Drive shaft issue

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Help needed..

Hi guys and gals,

hope someone can help me with my little issue…!

Ive replace my n/s drive shaft for a brand new item, that came pre assembled with inner and out cv joints.
Everything went fairly straight forward. However when I tried to drive off the car was not moving, after jacking the car up again I found that the wheel was locked solid..
As soon as I loosened the drive shaft 30mm nut it freed up again. I set the 30mm drive shaft nut to 230nm which felt about right. But now I feel there is an underlined issue I’m missing..
I did remember to fit the spacer on before the nut incase any of you ask. But much appreciated if anyone knows what’s going on..

ive check the new shaft against the old and they look identical, length and thread etc.

i also fitted a new bottom arm whilst it was apart but I’m guessing this shouldn’t affect it.

many thanks advance. 😬🤞🏻

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check the rear of the bearing where the joint seats
against for a flat face or a tapered face for comparsion to the c/v joint behind the spline mate

Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible

1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF

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Will do mate. I never noticed when I was checking one against the other. But we'll see.
Cheers for the reply .

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look up or google grinding mk1 axles.  Some re-mans have and edge that is raised and binds on the cup.

If you replaced your hub bearings and used anything but the flat spring clips, that is also known to cause the same issue.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Thanks guys.

I'll check today.
Luckily I have a set of new hub bearings which come with the correct flat type circlip.

Fingers crossed this is the issue..

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So removed the new driveshaft and checked against the old one, and the issue seems to be that the spline part  of the new shaft is 2mm longer.
So when I tighten the hub nut the body of the cv joint is touching the body of the hub buckle in stead of seating on the bearing face.

I've done a lot of google searching and found someone that added a washer to the shaft which seems to fix the issue.
Has any one done this?

I also checked the bearing circlip as some people say the wrong type can cause this issues but I have the flat (correct) fitted.

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I don't think the extra 2mm of length of the spline is the issue. A longer spline isn't going to change how much is pulled in to the bearing - it will only change how much is sticking out the wheel side.
As Briano said, it's probably the shape of the CV joint - it's a common issue.  The CV joint is binding on the hub face. I think the only option is to grind a bit off the joint (or replace the whole joint with one that is guaranteed to fit (usually the more expensive ones!).
I would be reluctant to put a washer on the inside of the bearing as in doing so you will in effect be increasing the length of the shaft, and putting pressure on components.
J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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Thanks for the link.

It says that euro wise, supply their drive shafts with “shims” to get around this issue.

The cv joint is fouling on the hub housing the same as in the link.

i purchased the only ns drive shaft available on AUTODOC. Not just buying the cheapest!

I always buy the best parts available as been caught out with cheaper parts in the past..

The os shaft I purchased was a different (more expensive) brand.
Be interesting to see if this fits?

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What size is your inner cv as sounds like when you try and fit the 100mm cv shaft in the 90mm hub.

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Compare old and new parts

                                

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sporttrucker said

What size is your inner cv as sounds like when you try and fit the 100mm cv shaft in the 90mm hub.

I know for a fact that you can use a 90mm in a 100 housing but you can't put a 100 in a 90 housing…well you can but it won't spin.  :)

Oh and to use a 90 in a 100 you have to change the differential cups…

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

sporttrucker said

What size is your inner cv as sounds like when you try and fit the 100mm cv shaft in the 90mm hub.

I know for a fact that you can use a 90mm in a 100 housing but you can't put a 100 in a 90 housing…well you can but it won't spin.  :)

Oh and to use a 90 in a 100 you have to change the differential cups…


Exactly, I'm guessing the new driveshafts are because of an engine/box swap so needs 100mm inner cv

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Should of said you can use a 90mm outer cv in a 100mm spindle, but you can't use a 100mm outer cv in a 90mm spindle, they just won't work..

To get a 90mm axle inner and outer to work in a 100,, spindle you have to change the differential cups over to 90mm.

What I did when I swapped a TJ Transmission (auto) in for a (TNA) in my 93 Cabriolet was to take the axles with me and have them rebuilt…

I am lucky to have a CV rebuilder about 10 miles from my house, does a great job, I don't have the Moly B hands and he not only re-balances them for true-flight but warranties his work for 1 year the price is very easy to take, 60 quid an axle, and when my boots broke it was 25 bucks to have them replaced it was way easier and less greasier.

The easiest part is that the 90mm differential cups bolt holes are equally spaced and once you get one bolt in, all the others line up easy peasy, not like the 100's that are off set in pairs and if you get the wrong one started you don't find out till you get the next one or two in.  :)

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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