A question for those who have fitted their own brake lines

Bit of a pro's and cons question here.

I've stripped all the brake lines off the cab, new servo and m/c in place, fronts all new and ready and rears ready to assemble.
I've got the copper, unions and flaring kit so just need to make the lines up.

Now fronts should be easy enough to do as they are short anyway but with regards to the rears I am considering making these in 2 pieces for easy of installation, the old ones were a nightmare to remove because of lack of space and I cant get the car any higher up.

Putting a join along the longest straight section under the car would make this a lot easier.

Pro's: easier to install, less chance of snapping or kinking a line when fitting, particularly where the lines pass upwards into the engine bay

Cons: 4 more flares to make in total, another location for the line to potentially fail, wont look as tidy

How did the rest of you do yours and would you recommend a join or not 

To be honest, I have in the past used metric compression fittings and they never failed me for the next 10 years of ownership….

(It was on a Dodge Caravan)…..

Thats what I wanted to hear, I will try to install them in one piece as the Karmann factory intended but if it starts to go wrong I think I'll go two piece.

Alternatively I have considered making the lines up to the large chassis grommet and then using two braided lines to go up into the back of the engine bay then hard lines from there to the master cylinder, any thoughts? 

I wouldn't worry, using copper pipe is much easier to install than the steel factory pipe as can be bent to shape on the car

Lots of joins!

It makes it easier to replace the bits that corrode as well in the future.

Use Cupra nickel instead of copper as it lasts longer. It's a bit stiffer then copper but easier than steel. Doesn't kink like copper either.

Go with a decent flarer though as cheap ones are rubbish and ain't worth the money

One of these is quite good but t will only do one size! Make sure you get the one you need

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bedford-Hand-Held-In-situ-On-Car-SAE-3-16-Pro-Brake-Pipe-Line-Flaring-Tool-Kit/362077280196?hash=item544d7cd7c4:g:M20AAOSwurZZHd05

Also check the seating of the ends to the bits being joined to. Some items need the longer threaded ends and some the shorter. Dry fit everything to check as once it's on the car it's a pain to change.

Ian

Well I've already opted for a sealey flarer but its vice mounted so have to be careful with my measurements I reckon 

Yup they work well too.  

Well I've only made and fitted the near side front so far and it wasn't quite as easy as I was hoping, not looking forward to the other 3 

when I was doing my Caravan, Dodges best attempt at electronic brakes,,,, The new brake likes went in to a proportional valve that was part of the rear leaf spring assembly, and couldn't be removed…So I had to buy a leaf spring assembly/proportional valve.

Fortunately that experiment was from late 91-93 In 94 they wen't back to tried and true vacuum hydraulic… which is what I converted my brakes over to after the dealer told me the new MC was 1400USD.  

Got it all done from the Yard and parts stores for under 300.

Thats a scary amount of money

WATERNAIR said

Thats a scary amount of money

Scary was the total, for 2 drums shoes 2 rotors, 2 pads
one MC 2700.00

So glad that in 94 they gave into the fact it was a POS design, and returned to tried and true.

Scarier was that if the Brake light came on as you were driving it you had only up to 50 pedal depressions before the brakes failed..

Dodge used a electric pump to pump the fluid into an accumulator, then with the ABS it shuttled it to the wheels….. The Accululator/ABS/Modulator/MC was all in one unit…. The Pump was separate.

The NTSB told Dodge that the PUMP Motor was warrantied for the life of the car regardless of ownership so it was always something else….

After I changed it all back, booster MC all the lines and pads rotors and brakes, I never had a "total" failure again.

I had the Van towed to the dealer to diagnose, and when they told me a price, I said ok, I will come and pick it up.
The Dealer Threatened me with arrest….as the car was unsafe…. Then I explained to him that I had the car towed there, what was so hard about understanding that I would have it towed from there….

I really really hate Dealerships, and I personally have seen a lot of unethical treatment of customers first hand when I worked in a parts department of one.