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What tool do i need to get the spade out?

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I have some spades in a connector (see picture). How can i pull this out or what tool specifically do i require?

It has a realy thin wires and one of these wires will be connected to the battery, i feel it is too thin to be connected as my understanding is 20amp wires are recommended….

20180825_114039~01.jpg

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You need a flat pin Push extraction tool…
or A paper clip.

Where the Connector is,

You see the rounded edges of the connector, there is the square hole below it.  while pushing the connector in to the socket push the paper clip in to the hole to bend the keeper back to the center of the connector, once bent to clear the connector it will slide out.
The bottom of the connector has a keeper that needs to be folded back once it is flattened the connector will push out.

This is a flat male side but you are going to compress the keeper to extract the pin from the socket.

Screen Shot 2018-08-25 at 7.15.17 AM.png

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 Thank you

It seems like the spade i would like to put in doesnt have that locking facility? What is the crimping tool called to crimp this and what spade should i look for?

Screenshot_20180825-131308~01.png

Or can i get away by connecting the inline fuse wire to the wire that is already crimped? Would this be ok for 12v? Or the inline fuse should be connected to the relay directly as it is a thicker gauge

20180825_131706.jpg

Last edit: by optimusdub

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Don't know the specific size that you require, but I have found spad connectors with the locking tabs, usually bare ones.

I have bare connector crimp tools for different sized wires, and I have one set that has interchangeable dies for different gauges

If I was on the job, and or at home I bend the wires into the bare metal and crimp close them so they are as narrow as they can get, then I soldered the wires to the spad, as I have seen many a flaky connector over 40 years of playing with crimp/solderless connections.  I do know that solder and heat shrink will usually not go flaky.

Specifics as to what you are wiring, and or the instructions that you are using.

Fusing things directly to the battery is a safe idea, as it prevents many a bad things from happening as in Wire fires and such.

I relay the supply side of all relays and or switches, and other wires that I install for non oem things

I say this as that looks to be a relay holder in the first picture.
 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Thank you! I will be soldering them first as i know it can be slightly tricky!

The first picture is a connector to the relay! I was just wondering the connector. Already has wires with a spade connected to the connector. Could i connct the inline fuse wire to one of these wires? (Even though theres a difference in width?) Whilst the other side is connected to the battery?

Briano1234 said

Don't know the specific size that you require, but I have found spad connectors with the locking tabs, usually bare ones.

I have bare connector crimp tools for different sized wires, and I have one set that has interchangeable dies for different gauges

If I was on the job, and or at home I bend the wires into the bare metal and crimp close them so they are as narrow as they can get, then I soldered the wires to the spad, as I have seen many a flaky connector over 40 years of playing with crimp/solderless connections.  I do know that solder and heat shrink will usually not go flaky.

Specifics as to what you are wiring, and or the instructions that you are using.

Fusing things directly to the battery is a safe idea, as it prevents many a bad things from happening as in Wire fires and such.

I relay the supply side of all relays and or switches, and other wires that I install for non oem things

I say this as that looks to be a relay holder in the first picture.
 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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borednow Briano1234 do you guys know what spade i need for the headlights? They do not look like the 6.3 mm but bigger….also what female spade do i need for these too…

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Spade as in the connector on the back of the bulb?

I have found it easier to source new Ceramic connectors with the wires attached that I splice in to the old harness (solder/heat shrink) Which allows me a higher wattage bulb.

TO assist with that relaying the head lamps gives you brighter light, due to the fact that you are running from a relay that is switched from your headlight switch to close the contacts that apply current and source voltage straight to the lamp..More current better light.

I can try to look it up in the ETKA for the pn of the spads, sometimes you get lucky with the size.

The ETKA is being a but t at this time… I will check back.   

Oh yes the headlight looms with Ceramic sockets are avail all over the web usually 20 bucks usd or less.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

Spade as in the connector on the back of the bulb?

I have found it easier to source new Ceramic connectors with the wires attached that I splice in to the old harness (solder/heat shrink) Which allows me a higher wattage bulb.

TO assist with that relaying the head lamps gives you brighter light, due to the fact that you are running from a relay that is switched from your headlight switch to close the contacts that apply current and source voltage straight to the lamp..More current better light.

I can try to look it up in the ETKA for the pn of the spads, sometimes you get lucky with the size.

The ETKA is being a but t at this time… I will check back.   

Oh yes the headlight looms with Ceramic sockets are avail all over the web usually 20 bucks usd or less.
Lol thanks Brian.

So im creating a new wiring loom for the headlight as im blind as a bat during the night. I have the two relays and two inline fuses.

I also have a connector with wires  that goes to these relays. (first pict i sent!).

I feel for the inline fuse wire it should go straight into the relay as oppose to splicing it into the existing wire…(diff size wires…i feel the inline fuse will be safer to carry the 12 volts!).

I would like to pop out the yellow/black (or its grey) wire out of the connector from the headlight! One wire with a female spade from the wiring loom to go into it. Whilst the other wire has the correct size spade going into the the connector into the bulb.

Thats my thinking so far so it looks neater rather than splicing the wires up.

Do you have a link or part number for these spades that go into the headlight connector. Male and female?

I know it would have been easier to just buy a wiring loom of ebay. But i wanted to try and take pride that i made it.

Also will buy a wire cover for the wires so it slightly looks a bit professional.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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optimusdub said

Briano1234 said

Spade as in the connector on the back of the bulb?

I have found it easier to source new Ceramic connectors with the wires attached that I splice in to the old harness (solder/heat shrink) Which allows me a higher wattage bulb.

TO assist with that relaying the head lamps gives you brighter light, due to the fact that you are running from a relay that is switched from your headlight switch to close the contacts that apply current and source voltage straight to the lamp..More current better light.

I can try to look it up in the ETKA for the pn of the spads, sometimes you get lucky with the size.

The ETKA is being a but t at this time… I will check back.   

Oh yes the headlight looms with Ceramic sockets are avail all over the web usually 20 bucks usd or less.
Lol thanks Brian.

So im creating a new wiring loom for the headlight as im blind as a bat during the night. I have the two relays and two inline fuses.

I also have a connector with wires  that goes to these relays. (first pict i sent!).

I feel for the inline fuse wire it should go straight into the relay as oppose to splicing it into the existing wire…(diff size wires…i feel the inline fuse will be safer to carry the 12 volts!).

I would like to pop out the yellow/black (or its grey) wire out of the connector from the headlight! One wire with a female spade from the wiring loom to go into it. Whilst the other wire has the correct size spade going into the the connector into the bulb.

Thats my thinking so far so it looks neater rather than splicing the wires up.

Do you have a link or part number for these spades that go into the headlight connector. Male and female?

I know it would have been easier to just buy a wiring loom of ebay. But i wanted to try and take pride that i made it.

Also will buy a wire cover for the wires so it slightly looks a bit professional.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

I think the headlight ones are 8mm (measured the width….) Funnily enough i looked in my toolbox and i found the ceramic connector (3 pin!) Hallelujah!

So i will take one wire from here and splice to the wire…..so i guess all i need now if the female one….

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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