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Toad Sterling Excel Immobiliser

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Immobiliser circuit

Hi all

I’ve decided to fit a Toad Sterling Excel immobiliser to my cabby, I’m after a bit of advice regarding which circuits to control. The first one is pretty straight forward, just gonna interrupt the supply to the coil via the ignition.  As for the second circuit, I want to immobilise the starter, as mine is the carbed version I don’t have a fuel pump relay, which seems to be a popular choice.

As these old golfs don’t have a starter relay either I’m a little concerned about running the circuit through the immobiliser, the toad has 2 18amp relays, of which one can handle a burst of 30amps, I’m sure the starter will draw a lot more than this.

has anyone fitted this immobiliser to a carbed cabby, or has anyone fitted a relay to the starter circuit? Any help would be much appreciated.

cheers.

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You can control the starter with the addition of a heat soak relay.

That the pick of the relay is minor, as the 40 amp load from the starter is from battery to starter.

The pick side of the solenoid is from the ignition circuit (start) to the relay.  The relay is grounded and the pick enables the contact to get full power to the solenoid.

So your immobilizer is interrupting the pick which is lower current than it is used to.

See: http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/InstallingHot-startRelay.pdf  to see how the heat soak relay is installed.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Thanks for that briano1234, that’s a great idea.

I’ve installed the immobiliser on the ignition circuit behind the clocks for now, just need to order the relay kit and then wire that in to the starter circuit, the Sterling immobiliser looks like a good bit of kit, together with my steering wheel lock will hopefully deter the random looking for an easy target.

Thanks again.

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Just wondering on the relay size required for the starter solenoid, plus cable size from battery to relay and relay to solenoid.

The hard start kits I’ve looked at don’t state the relay size, plus the wiring looks a bit thin.

I would have thought a 40 or 50amp relay plus 6 to 10mm squared wire would do, going by the original vw starter wire from the ignition.

thanks again.

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I used what we call over here a Ford Starter Relay it is about 100a..

Similar to this:
Screen Shot 2020-03-30 at 7.16.03 AM.png

The little post is where you take the wire from the ignition switch going to the starter solenoid cut it and use the side from the cabin (ignition switch) to the
small post to pick the relay.

The larger 2 studs, you attach a wire from the battery to one of them.
The other gets the end of the Starter solenoid wire that was cut.

IIRC they can take 90-100A usually, and Ford used them on all their cars that had the starter under the manifolds.

The 2 stud on top variety is a great way to tell if your starter or ignition switch is bad, as you can short the 2 studs together and with or with out the key on and the engine will crank.

Where you bolt it to is the ground on the starter relay, the big plate on the bottom….

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Hi.
Hope you don't mind me jumping on this thread.
Im fitting the same Imobiliser to my car.
I'm taking the fuel pump circuit at 1st point of imobilisation, and would like to kill the power to the ignition for the second.
I was hoping you maybe able to tell me which coloured wire from the ignition switch relates to the coil / ignition. Is it the green one?
Thanks in advance…

Projekt Frustration :

 White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!

Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.

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Hi Chris-h

my car is the clipper model so isn’t fuel injected, so no fuel pump relay, just a mechanical pump. So one mine I fitted a starter relay and interrupted this with one of the immobiliser circuits, for the second circuit I interrupted the ignition to the coil, to do this I spliced into the wiring going to the ignition switch, behind the clocks.

There are 2 black wires connected to one terminal pin, it’s the thickest of the 2 black wires that goes to the ignition, the thin one goes to the clocks I believe. This works really well for me, but because I wanted that bit extra just in case someone took my keys I also fitted a momentary push button on the ignition, so now the sequence is, turn off the immobiliser with the fob, press and hold hidden momentary switch and start, it’s maybe a bit ott, but makes me feel better for it 😀

hope this helps..
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