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Rivage fuse box spare spade connector question

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Extra blue @ grey cable where does it go?

Good morning all

I am taking the opportunity to try and trace an annoying electrical gremlin.

It seems like when battery voltage is low the system complains and overloads the system dropping the fuel pump relay and the MFA stops altogether.
The fuel pump relay comes back to by taking it out and giving it a tap but the MFA only occasionally works and i think only with a very high battery voltage.

New fuel pump relay needed I am sure although it looks perfect inside

I have been chasing grounds to make sure all are good and in the process i have an extra cable with a single spade connector floating behind the fuse box, its blue/grey and splits into two cables.

Any ideas as to which male spade on the rear of the fuse box it belongs?

There is also a strange black single pin connector floating behind the fuse box with no obvious place to fit it, i suspect its always been floating doing nothing and is iintended for an accessory not fitted  but i may be wrong

Many thanks and the sun is up again today to help us through these terrible times

Guy 

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Grounds is the bane of the electrical system, if you have to remove the Fuel pump relay, I would suspect that as the major issue and replace it.  Be warned some of the after market relays aren't well made.

CIS relays with wrong internals are listed here.
http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/Relays.pdf

From edumacating myself on the MFA, and Rub has been a source of my re-studies, the Ground from the Valve cover bracket to the Coil Bracket is a must have thing for a functional MFA.

From my dealings with the clocks cluster on this side of the pond, I have found a few-gimmes.
Add a new ground from the frame at the rear of the "X" bars to the ground wire on the cluster Pin2 (brown).  It can and will resolve a lot of flakiness in the cluster.  I use a Scotch lock wire splice to join it to the Brown lead about 2-4 inches behind the connector, just make it about 8 inches long so it doesn't bind the cluster on removal.

I am also found that taking the shroud off the main electrical connector, then carefully (READ CAREFULLY) removing the mylar off the tongue and placing a single piece of electrical tape (I use 3m) take care as to letting it unspool from the role, then let it regain its length as it stretches when you pull it and tries to get back to same length.  That you take it after it has re-laxed and affix it to the pin side of the tongue of the cluster.  Replace the mylar and the shroud, you will find that when you reconnect it that the pins on the connection become tighter and it makes it harder to install or remove the connector…I call it plumping up your connections, and make the cluster behave better… In the archive section I have a how-to with photos, click the link in my signature line.

 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Many thanks for all the info and links and grounds are an area that i will keep at!

I will also be getting a new pump relay - quite like Hella as a brand but non here in UK at the moment are Huco any good?

I traced the loose spade grey/blue behind the fuse box back to the oil sensor so it should plug back into the rear of the fusebox

Any help with where ?

Thanks Guy

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grey/blue I thought was for the lamp circuits only… So if it goes over to your oil gauge, then it should be a lamp circuit…Not off the top of my head, but a2 resource has good examples…
for cabbies 89-93
Central Electric 1

 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Oil temperature sender on top of oil filter

I traced the loose spade at the back of the fuse box grey/blue and it goes directly to the oil temp sender on the oil filter, it splits close to the fuse box and the second grey/blue heads off behind the dash presumably to feed the MFA as oil temperature is blank.
Its a single female spade connector that should plug into the back of the fuse box

But which spade ?
I will get a couple of picture up later

Thanks Guy

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Photo's taken this morning showing the blue/grey connector that comes from the oiil temp sender and splits over to the dash that should plug into the rear of the fuse box. Second picture is the floaring connector red cable that is perhaps intended as a spare live ?  the blue/grey is almost certainly the feed to MFA oil temperature and should be plugged into the rear of the fuse box
Thanks Guy   IMG_6519.JPG

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Second black connector picture

Guy  IMG_6518.JPG
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