horn help needed please
Posted
#1582828
(In Topic #214815)
Old Timer
it was all ok until . . .
I've searched just about every forum but keep drawing blanks.
I decided to fit an aftermarket removable steering wheel to my 85 cab more for security than anything.
Horns worked fine on the standard wheel and I'd put money on it that if I reinstalled it then they would again.
With the new wheel I'm getting relay clicking (already tried a brand new relay) but only when the wheel is turned to certain positions without even pressing the horn, its only in these certain positions that pressing the horn button causes relay clicking.
My rev counter also seems to of decided to slow down, sits at the bottom when idle but does move when revved, almost like its 1000rpm behind the engine.
No idea if this is related but thought I'd mention it.
The horn press is 2 wires with the earth being underneath the main steering wheel nut and washer.
Anyone have any idea, the fact the relay is clicking which steering slightly is pretty odd
Last edit: by 1985
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Local Hero
Early cars split one set of wires to 2 horns. What happens is the old wire goes higher resistance and the horns fail. The trick is to disconnect the horns and power directly from battery to make sure they are not faulty. Then if both sound, unplug one of the horns, that usually provides enough current to power at least one.
The horn is earth switched and the path runs from horn pad to a tab under the wheel, continuing down the steering column, where it meets the steering rack it jumps across via a short brown wire.
"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
Posted
Old Timer
After further internet searching I'm wondering if I actually have an issue with the boss itself.
The edge of it is actually sitting on a screw head, almost like its either too far on I.e needs a spacer or due to design needs trimming back.
Would that effect things?
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Moderator
When changing the steering wheel sometimes the tolerances are even further out meaning that you contact the column or surrounding areas when you don't want to.
You're actually fairly lucky, on mine the horn kept going off!
Try another steering boss. Cheaper ones do seem to be worse for it than more expensive ones for some reason.
If your horns aren't working also check the wire that should run from the steering rack to the body (next to the UJ) as this can corrode to a rusty mess and stop the horns from working.
BTW early cars have a single horn and jumper in the fuse box. Later cars have twin horns and relay in the fuse box. If you go from a single to a twin horn set up replace the jumper with a relay
Ian
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