91 cabby electric roof

Hi guys please help lol
Bought a new roof switch thinking this was the problem, but no roof still won't work. There are 4 relays in back what do these dogs as the first one if I put pressure on it the motor kicks in a roof goes down but won't go up unless I do it manually. Is this Ment to happen. But the roof would go up with on the switch. Does this all run through fuse box as well.  Please help as desperate to get this working. There are so many wires in boot fit it I don't know where to start


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The Motor is Bi-Directional, that means that it spins one way to go up, and another to go down.

So if your main relay only takes it up, then there is either another relay that has to make or brake to allow it to go down I would imagine there is a control unit that makes sure the car is parked (parking brake up) and on Neutral or park…

Very similar to the Power window circuitry, I just don't have a Diagram for it.

see my signature link, g1powerhood.pdf

Just open the PDF in a new window…I have the same issue but mine does nothing so I'll try the whole pushing the relays thing…I was thinking there's not a fuse in the front fuse box so it's either the ignition switch,relays or the roof switch…need to get someone to get a meter on the pump just to see if power is making it there it might just be even the pump dead but mi was thinking I'm not even hearing a click from the relays so power can't be getting to them..and I know about how it's meant to work etc.parked one click on ignition etc

start at the ignition switch, make sure you have power to terminal P ignition off, and terminal SU with the key inserted. chase the loom as best you can, looking for bodgery.

the SU wire sometimes goes to the stereo as well, so if captain bodger has been at your loom you may find the wires here are damaged

you have the main live fuse above the fusebox but there are no other fuses on the switched circuits

Sounds stupid but how do u check for power, I have chased to loom ripped out stereo can can see any bodgery the only problem is the red wire on the switch has been cut and a long bit of wire added but I have linked this up with the red wire on the loom


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multimeter would be easiest, but you can make up a test lamp. 1 leg earthed somewhere and touch the points i mention

I have a breakthrough...I started at the switch and when I took the faceplate off to remove the switch IT WASNT EVEN PLUGGED IN!! All the worries lol...now I can hear the pump so all I need todo now if fix the split line and full it up....any tips on how to bleed it?

Wish mine was that simple mine goes down not up lol


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I think it is self bleeding, I have never heard of some one having to bleed it as you are moving the piston and the air/fluid will get in to or out of the pump….

Worse case is to crack the line at the piston, wrap a rag around it and short power the switch…On for a second then off.  then retighten the nut on the line.

Same for the retract…..But I do tend to think that is is similar to Power Steering as it is Self bleeding after you move it up, and down a couple of times.

Cheers thanks for that do I just use clutch fluid or something like that 

No I would use Hydraulic Jack Fluid......... Not Brake fluid.

G 004  000 M2 or equivalent from the dealer.
Make sure roof is on the down position.
Assuming you've removed the boot cards.
Locate the T thumb screw that comes off the pump body side. This allows the roof to be opened/closed manually.
Turn it anti clockwise.
Next locate the hex filler but on top of the pump body.
Look at the plastic reservoir the fluid should sit between the min/max lines.

Topping up is a pain, try and get a syringe and introduce the fluid with that once filler hex nut is removed.

Once the level is correct, manually raise and lower the roof a couple of times.
Replace the hex nut but not tighten fully.


Close T thumb screw.
Operate electrically couple times. Re check level roof down. Fully tighten hex filler nut.

Make sure there is no leaks from the the added unions/elbows on the pump and rams. Check that the plastic reservoir isn't cracked around the mounting holes.

  


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I gave that number to vw and just got it straight from there I got 2lt just in case but after there was a load of oil in the back no none in the system I think I found the problem I think it's coming from one of the screw ends that go from the pump to the ram…I'll get some tape on it and tighten it up and see how it goes

Yea you get leaks on the joints. I used ptfe tape plumbers use to help seal the threads.
That's what I did on mine.
It was the elbow bends on the drivers side ram that leaked.
I've done lots of roofs etc and not had a split pipe.
It's been those joints and the plastic reservoir that splits.



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Hi carl.... the plastic reservoir, is there a replacement part for that? or just luck that you come across a few spares?

Hey up mate,
I have it somewhere I'll dig it out for you.
The laters ones are slightly longer so you need to bend the bottom bracket out a bit to accommodate.
When I can get to my lap top I'll ping it over,



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Update on my roof got up at 7 this morning testing all relays and they all work so did some swapping around and hay presto roof Now goes up and down now just need to rewire it to a new live so I can put it up and down without turning engine off


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It's designed to operate with engine off, that's so you don't lower it as you drive wrecking your frame lol.