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A3 19.t 5v passat 20v audi 2.3 quattro

 hi all..  newbie  here…and some probably already answered questions..

 but here goes..  mk 1 rhd s/african import citi with mk2 servo and master cylinder upgrade.
  i have some donor cars…which is the easiest bolt on brake upgrade option.?
  i have 15" oz 3 piece wheels
                                 potential donors
an audi coupe  b4 1989/90  2.3 5cyl non quatty…    i think the brakes are g60  280mm  can i put on the mk1 ?  is an adaptor plate needed
audi  A3 1.8 20v                                                                              same question
passat estate 1.8                                                         
                    same question


 i also have a mirriad of golf mk 2 3 4&5                                        rear brake disc upgrade  which would be the  best option
                                                            
                                                i guess i would take off the whole axle unit ?

also do the front seats fit from the A3 ?   or what seats are good fit …i hear the audi TT does…..and rear
what else.
thank you in advance.
steve

 

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mk2/3 rear discs easiest option, user the mk3 calipers. mk4 are alloy and fit the mk2/3 stub axles/carriers,but require conversion hoses and do suffer from corrosion issues still especially with the bleed nipples.

up front the G60 type 280mm calipers and carriers fit with the widely available adaptor brackets. Not 100% what a b4 audi has?

what year passat is it? the early b5 use 280mm carriers which are the same asd g60, calipers are not quite the same but still go (may need passat pads rather than g60)

audi a3 is mk4 platform so probably nothign of use

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Bleeder Port corrosion is rather common, as the left over fluid is Hydroscopic, and absorbs water to make it rust.  With alloy's you also get Dissimilar metal electrolysis or corrosion as the Steel Bleeder Ports (nipples which isn't PC) in to alloy will corrode because of this and is exacerbated by the leftover fluid.

To prevent this from causing you grief in the Future I have the answer.  

Use a combination of Teflon Tape on the Bleeder Port from below the tightening nut to the end and back…., Then poke a hole in the tape where the port bleed hole is.  and lightly dab a bit of never-seize to the threads on the outside of the tape.

This will not stop corrosion, but it will allow slippage of the part if it does occur and it will prevent the bleeder port from rust welding to the caliper, and you can be safe for years and years…..

Work Smarter, not harder… Every steel bolt I remove on any car I work on, gets Never-seized….or mummified (wrapped in tape), High value targets are the lower Shock bolt on the rear, and any screw thread that is part of the vacuum lines ie: T B brass 6 mm Idle By-Pass Screw…. Just saying. :)

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