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Mk1 KR swap with PB Digifant ECU

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After a long while scratching my head and swearing I now have answers to how my conversion was cobbled together.
Big thanks to Adam (Beardy) for all the assistance in identifying my setup and also his knowledgeable advice! :thumbs:Anyway back to my questions:

1. The car is running a KR engine with the 8V digifant ECU designed for the PB engine (037 906 022 E). Should I try to source a chip which has been programmed to run the 16V?

2. The 5th injector has had the fuel line removed and blocked but the item is still wired. do i need to reinstate a fuel line?

The car runs and drives but on the drive home from buying it (Portsmouth to Cardiff) the car felt unresponsive with power being delivered in hits rather than smooth. Also startup from cold is horrific and car refuses to idle or rev properly until the battery charge light turns out.

Any help or words of wisdom from people who have experience or knowledge of this setup would be greatly appreciated.:thumbs:Photo below for reference. please ignore the isv connection this has been re-routed.
IMG-20180723-WA0004.jpg

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Digifant doesn't need the 5th injector so that is a moot point.

Lumpy running is usually timing, and or a Bad CTS sensor.  Since you say that the fuel flow seems to be iffy, then I would look at the Fuel pump relay as the digifant uses a different relay than the CIS and it is possible that you have the wrong type installed.  Also check for Vacuum leaks on every Vacuum line, as I see they did away with the airbox and installed a "Ricer" Cone filter, so there is one vacuum port on the Throttle body/Valve body that needs to be plugged off, as any Vacuum leak can wreck havoc with these little guy's as they hate unmetered air whether CIS or DIGI.

One way to diagnose this is swapping the horn relay for the Fuel pump relay, (WARNING) this will enable the fuel pumps to run constantly with the ignition on and the engine not running do this as a test only or a stuck on the road measure.

Conversions done by some one else is always a iffy thing…Wiring and correct replacement of parts.

ie: Digifant uses fuel at 45 psi, whereas CIS was 75psi so did they install the proper Fuel pressure regulator on the system? or did they add one in-line to the CIS fuel pump, as the CIS fueled 84.5 and up cars had an intank pump pushing fuel  at 45psi to the sump/swirl pot/filter that is attached to the side of the tank, and then they had a in-line pump and Checkvalve that pushed it to 75-psi.

The digifant equipped cars have the same 45psi in-tank pump and sump/swirl pot/filter that is attached to the side of the tank and them to a main pump also rated at the same LPH/GPH and 45psi.

Did they keep the Accumulator and other things associated with the CIS or get rid of them.   Didn't think it would be an easy question or answer…..

I know for a fact that a bad CTS sensor, (the 16V used the same sensor (different style)) that is attached to the water outlet flange Grille side that the 90 digi's used, and I have had issues with no-start when warm, no-start when cold and generally Lumpy running when they go bad, depending on how they went bad that is.

So I have more questions than answers for you, like I said a conversion of the engine from stock to modified depends on the Skill of the "Changer" and how he made it all work together …Properly or just to "get it by".

You can usually tell by the connections of the wires, a bunch of crimp amp connectors or Soldered and Heat shrink. Staggered soldered connection or one big lump of Crimps and 30 yards of electrical tape.

Buying a Swapped engined car is always a "questionable" thing.. Not like throwing a 1300CC engine in to a Bug-eyed Sprite, or early mk1 or mk2 MG Midget/Sprite.
 

Last edit: by Briano1234


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

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Thank you for the reply Brian! Turns out the connection to the 5th injector was actually for the coolant temperature sensor that wasn't fitted to the block. Quick trip to GSF and the ecu can now see the sensor. Cold start is much improved!
However I have another issue. Car will now start happily and idle at around 1k for approx 15 seconds before it will rev itself to around 4k and hold there.
Have I missed something silly here?
It's getting a little late to let it run at this time of night to search for vacuum leaks

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No expert on this but I don't see how that ecu can be expected to run the kr lump successfully..
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