Rack adjustment

Anyone had a go at steering rack adjustment with the rack in place? If so can you tell me if the adjusting mechanism is slotted or bolt headed, I've tried looking through a mirror but cannot make it out, also if it's a bolt what size spanner would I need?

I had asked about this a while back - still not found anyone that has adjusted a rack yet.  In the Haynes book it shows using two spanners so I guess hex headed but then in the exploded view they call it an adjustment 'screw'

From memory it is a hex bolt with a larger locknut around it (can't remember the sizes, it was years ago when I did it).

Servicing Nightmare: The fuel pipes are replacements on my car, and they were in the way of the rack adjuster to such an extent, that I had to remove the rack from the car to adjust it!

Did adjusting the rack make any difference? In the back of my mind I am worried that I'll do it and my rack will sieze or something daft and then require a new one!!

It did feel a bit tighter and smoother, and didn't sieze (I followed the Haynes book, which says to tighten until you feel resistance, and then back off half a turn and lock it with the locknut), but I didn't get rid of all of the clonking which I was feeling through the steering wheel when going over kerbs or rough ground - the reason I wanted to adjust the rack in the first place.
The rest of the clonk turned out to be from worn bearings in the steering column (the copper ones which are in the steering-lock/ignition assembly).

By the way, clonks can also come from a bearing on the lower end of the column, near the pedals, or from worn universal joints in the linkage between the column and the rack, as well as the usual suspects in the front suspension (wishbone bushes & ball-joints, and tie-rod ends)

Cheers for that, gives me some confidence to try it now when I'm feeling a bit more bendy!!

Out of interest, notice your car list in your sig - u don't have enough - buy some more!! :wink:  (Do you live on a forecourt?!!)

Hairyarse said

Out of interest, notice your car list in your sig - u don't have enough - buy some more!! :wink:  (Do you live on a forecourt?!!)

Actually, between my brother & I, we have a few more than that, including a Scirocco 16v (unfortunately minus it's engine right now), and Ben Leach's Red Mk1 "Syncro", which he recently bought, but all of them, except the Syncro and the G60 Mk1 are in storage on my uncle's farm outside Dublin…

When I get more space :roll: , I will be sorting some of them out…

Sounds like a full time job!! 8O

If only I didn't have a REAL full-time job, I'd be able to do the Golfs full time  8)  - must play the lottery some more…  :wink:

Like type 17 my fuel lines were in the way of the adjuster so I took the rack out, nightmare of a job. I set the adjuster as to the Haynes manual which is fine with a rack in perfect cindition, but they seem to wear in the straight ahead position, so if it is worn, it will bind as soon as you turn. I wasn't going through all that again so I bought a new one from GSF, about ?45. Now it's OK, all the rattles have gone. Looking back I would have put up with it as it was.

Cedar, I've been debating about a new rack. Like you say, for ?45 it seems worth the money. But if I was going to do the rack I'd want to do the tie rods, ball joints - the whole front end really so I think the ???'s would start to add up! 8O

My tie rods etc were OK and that was on 176K miles on mostly Cornish roads. The Haynes manual says that you can remove the rack through the off side of the car, mine wouldn't fit. I had to take the tie rods off and then manoeuvre the rack up and twist it so that it came out from below the car on the off side of the exhaust downpipe, (this is from memory, I did the job a few months ago). You need quite big spanners to undo the tie rods and space is very limited. I seem to remember taking the clamps that hold the rack to the car off first, and then moving it to a position where I could get the spanners on it to undo the tie rods. It is awkward but once done it won't need doing again. All the best.

Adjusted the steering rack with the engine and rack in!….

I jacked up the car and sat the front end on axle stands, then tried to adjust the rack using my normal spanners but failed because the spanners were too long :? so I purchased a set of stubby spanners from Halfords priced at 20 pounds which did the job. While I was at it I pulled back the boot and greased it.

Stubby spanners sizes needed are 17mm and 7mm.

Has it made much difference to the steering?

Yes, there is a big difference after tightening the rack.

The rack adjustment is a small job really and is blown up ot of all proportion, although it takes a little time to get the hands in the right position to work the spanners also a very dirty job.

Cheers for all the info Lhasa, think I'll have to give it a bash soon!

Do you know if you need any special grease for the rack? Haynes says something about spraying it first with Molykote 321R :?:  8O

Final question, where was best place for access, i.e. from top, under the car…?

From memory and a previous life as RAF Propulsion Technician, Molykote 321R is a spray graphite coating. I used to sray the roots of large diameter engine fan blades with the stuff.
Why the steering rack needs it I don't know :?

Simon

I put the steering on full right lock then pulled back the rack rubber from the groove, the wiped off the existing grease cleaned up the rack with wd40 dryed off and regreased using cheap 3 pounds grease which was lithiten based (sorry for the spelling)

I'll just use grease then!

…and for access??!! :wink:

Hairyarse said

Final question, where was best place for access, i.e. from top, under the car…?

jack up the front of the car and put on axle stands,slide under the car on your back  then the left hand goes in the the left of the exhaust and the right hand to the right of the exhaust, takes a little time to get your hands in the right position.

Hold the spanner in the right hand.