Lockdown time to work on my GTi

Thought I'd share some pics on some work I'm doing on my GTi engine…….trying to work my way through various components to make the engine look cleaner.

This was engine before start of work


Powder coating of rocker head and rad cover…. alternator disassembly, paint and reassembly…..starter motor resprayed and dizzy cleaned up.








Next steps are to wire brush dirty areas of engine, degrease as required, replace K Jet airbox gasket, paint the brake servo and install rad card…… received most of the parts….found a good supplier from Germany, good price providing you purchase several parts as shipping can be costly.

Also will be sourcing the decals for finishing touches.

Any tips or guides are much appreciated.

Also appreciate any pics of cleaned DX engines to motivate me more and make me jealous.

Cheers!

b4

after




Cleaning my old white one.

Lovely cars you have

Did you spray your alternator like I did? Or that wire brush cleaning?

Really like the blue colour……I'm hoping to have my car ready for any future meets…..after the engine cleaning……just have the P Slots to get refurbished.

Are the scuttle trays usually longer in length in these models? My tin top appears to be much shorter.

BRINZ said

Lovely cars you have

Did you spray your alternator like I did? Or that wire brush cleaning?

just have the P Slots to get refurbished.

I used a brass wire brush on a Drill to clean it after I took all the grease off of it, then a Brass tooth Brush…. I then painted it….GOLD.

BRINZ said

Are the scuttle trays usually longer in length in these models? My tin top appears to be much shorter.

An a/c equipped cars the rain diverter, or Scuttle tray cover as you call it is about 6 inches longer for the Ac Plenum and Keeping water to a minimum.  I have found that re-directing the Vacuum and windscreen hoses out of the rain drains, and via the Grommet using hard lines the best thing you can do.  I changed over to Black Silicone hose and changed out the gold Balls for a really big check valve to get the over hanging stuff out of my way.






Changed over to black, and then removed teh tiny check valve for the bigger one above.

I finally re-ran the Windscreen hose on my Cabriolets, in to the hood hole,  I used a small brass butt-to-butt where it was being pinched by the scuttle.




Worked really well Kept the Scuttle drain clean and made the bay a little bit less confused.

The Big check valve is from a US Chrysler Mini-Van.

For the components attached to the engine which have exposure to heat, did you use VHT paint or normal paint?

I used VHT, and have run the engine a few times to cure the paint….

I found a Dupli-Color over here that is Mettalic, it held up well, and I eventually painted all the bit's I ever removed the Same color… I then when over it with 2 coats of self hardening clear (it's the can that has the button on the bottom that you press then shake like the Devil is after you and you have about 24-36 hours to use it all….other wise it hardens in the can… Good stuff and very durable.



As far as wheels the best thing I did was to Strip the clear and color off my teardrops and then using sandy-type papers then polish, that is 400-3000 wet/dry polish them… sad was that it took about 3 hours per wheel to polish….

Keeping then up is that about every other year I scrub them with an SOS pad, then Polish with Brasso…

They look great. Inspired me to do mine. Did you have to support the engine to get the starter out? If so, where?

You can remove the starter with the engine as it is. The starter bolts also secure the front mount, but that doesn't support the engine, merely stops it tilting back and forth under acceleration and braking. So, you can safely remove the starter without supporting the engine.
btw - the starters are heavier than they look.

J

Thanks a lot  

Yes easy to remove..... Allen head bolts and nut on otherside of bracket..... Disconnect battery before doing any work and be very careful when removing as it is heavy...... Keep your head clear at all times......

BRINZ said

Yes easy to remove….. Allen head bolts and nut on otherside of bracket….. Disconnect battery before doing any work and be very careful when removing as it is heavy…… Keep your head clear at all times……

Noted  

Resprayed the fuel metering head and air flow unit

Tidy. Got mine to do (one of many jobs). Did you re-plate the banjo bolts or are they new ones?
Makes a big difference.
Sadly the little part no plaque on mine is really scruffy…

Hi, the banjo bolts were replaced a couple of years back with new ones...I may look into buying a mini nickel plating kit to re-coat bolts and screws.....some of the nuts and bolts I just sprayed with hammerite....

Just finished the brake servo assembly…..must say hammerite direct on rust spray worked a charm. Lovely results….. expensive but worth it. Just need to buy a new decal to finish it off.

Super happy…..managed to get hold of one brand new set and one hardly used set of rare Quantum Mudflaps…..sheer coincidence I bumped into a person who had a set and knew of another person in Scotland who had a sealed set.

Can't wait to clamp them on……

BRINZ  I've moved this down to the Project Cars section for you.

Ian

Good Work!!