16v servo and master cylinder swap

I want to upgrade my front brakes to 256mm discs and at the same time i plan to fit a 16v golf servo and master cylinder, already have the new calipers and i am awaiting some carriers at the moment but want to know if there are any clearance issues with using a 16v servo and mc? i will be buying these both new probably from ecp as i wouldnt risk using a used mc and all the servo's i have come accross have been full of brake fluid plus the car is a keeper

as far as I know storm, the 16V servo is straight swap with no issues or clearance problems. I've got an old passat one on mine with no worries.

G60RGE posted about this recently - he's done his. Only needed a T-piece as the 16V master cylinder is 3-outlet, not 4. He got the T-piece from GSF. The thread was posted in the other day so you should find the info easy enough!

Sorry if this reply is a bit late, but was having trouble with the computer, so haven't been on the forum for a few weeks.

The best option is to get a late Mk2 (1988 - 1991) 16v servo (9") and m/c (22mm).

I managed to get a really good condition servo from a specialist VW breakers, and got brand new m/c from GSF.

Also get the metal T-piece from them for the brake light switch.

You may have trouble bleeding the system to get rid of all the old brake fluid and also avoid any bubbles.

I bled it twice, but still wasn't happy, so finally bought the Eazibleed system from my local autoparts shop and it made a big difference.

Yeah not yet done it as finances are tight and there are more important things right now, will pick up a new servo and mc when i can, may actualy mount a brake light switch on the brake pedal instead of using a t, generaly bleeding my cars brakes goes smoothly, mainly thanks to the gunsons bleader

storm i have done this conversion twice.the 22mm master cylinder i bought had four outlets.if you need some t pieces get them from  a scrap mk2 all models had them fitted(cheaper than new and not hard to find).
   it is best to bleed the master cylinder first on all four outlets before bleeding the brakelines this way you should have no probs getting the airout.the only problem i had was when i didnt have crossbar adjusted correctly and the brakes started to bind on ,this was because not enough freeplay on the mastercylinder.good luck with it  its def worth doing
                         
                                             mark

I've just tried to fit a 16v servo and 22mm m/c and had a nightmare! The clevis pin on the new servo didn't fit, so I thought id just swap em over but I broke the original one trying to get it off  :x     I've also removed the cross bar to be powder coated. Does anyone have any experience setting up/adjusting these cross bars or is it just trail and error?

When I overhauled my brakes I measured the end to end length of the adjusting rod before I dismantled it. Once refitted I could move the linkage by hand and see if there was any lost movement. The adjusting rod could then be adjusted to remove it. I did find that my system did not have a stop fitted to the pedal box assembly and so adjusting the rod would simply raise or lower the brake pedal. This was overcome as the mounting point was already there for a stop so I fitted a suitable size bolt. With the pedal at the correct height, the adjusting rod was extended to push against the stop and remove the lost motion from the system. This ment the push rod was just contacting the rear of the master cylinder piston. Hopes this makes some sense.


Simon

cool, thanks very much  

I've seen a newish Audi 80 in the scrappy, it has a 2 ltr injected engine in it. Can I use the front, rear disk and calipers, servo and master cylinder?

Lhasa - I don't think the rear brakes will be useable, a Mk2 Golf Gti is the one to get the rear set up from. The stud pattern is different on Audi's, so disks won't be any good for your Mk1.
If the car is newish then the front calipers won't be any good either. You need to find a 'square shape' (old) Audi 80/80/100, but even then most of them will have the wrong type of caliper
Quick checklist for finding the correct Audi front calipers/sliders for Mk1 swap :
Does it have a brake pad wear sensor ? (yes is bad, if no then…….)
Is the disk 256mm diameter ? (if yes then……)
Are the mounting bolts for the caliper (where slider bolts to stub axle) 7.5cm apart from centre of bolt head to centre of bolt head ?  (if not they will be more like 9.5cm which is no good, if they are 7.5cm apart then…..)
Take one bolt out from where the caliper slider mounts to the stub axle. Does the threaded part of the bolt fit nicely in a 10mm spanner ? (if no it will be 12mm - no good for a Mk1. If yes then congrats, you've found the right calipers !)
All the calipers I've had have had 'Girling' cast into the tops of them. Many of the 'wrong' Audi ones have VAG stamps, but many of the Girling ones are unsuitable also. Confusing, eh ?!?
Good luck,
Mark

Cricky.

Is the servo nad master cylinder useable? It has 4 outlets in a V formation. :dontknow:

m6m62  thats some good info on 256 brakes.iI found a audi coupe 5cylinder d reg going to get the brakes later this week can use your checks to make sure i dont come home with something that doesnt fit.
     thanks

No probs - I've got a couple of photos of the 'correct' calipers if you're interested (or anyone else). Just PM me and I'll send them.
Cheers,
Mark

m6m62- went to scrapyard yesterday did the checks they were the right ones made by girling.I got callipers and carriers and large throttle body for a tenner what a bargin.The callipers seem to be in good nick not seized,but i think i may have to service the sliders can you get a repair kit for them.What discs will i need to buy is it 90 spec mk2 gti?
      thanks   mark  

Hi there - top bargain !  The most crucial check is that the bolt holes are 7.5cm apart and that the bolts are 10mm and not 12mm. You need the late 16V Golf disks for the swap. Not sure about new seal kits but you should be able to buy them as I've resealed other (non VW) calipers in the past and got kits easily. Let me know if you find them as I could do with a set (!). If it's just the 'concertina' rubber covers for the sliders that have split, maybe one from your original calipers will fit ? (not sure - haven't tried but worth a go)
All the best,
Mark

Would a pair of front girling calipers off a G60/Audi S2 fit on a MK1 golf? :dontknow:

yup with the 280 spacer brackets

m6m62 said

Lhasa - I don't think the rear brakes will be useable, a Mk2 Golf Gti is the one to get the rear set up from. The stud pattern is different on Audi's, so disks won't be any good for your Mk1.
If the car is newish then the front calipers won't be any good either. You need to find a 'square shape' (old) Audi 80/80/100, but even then most of them will have the wrong type of caliper
Quick checklist for finding the correct Audi front calipers/sliders for Mk1 swap :
Does it have a brake pad wear sensor ? (yes is bad, if no then…….)
Is the disk 256mm diameter ? (if yes then……)
Are the mounting bolts for the caliper (where slider bolts to stub axle) 7.5cm apart from centre of bolt head to centre of bolt head ?  (if not they will be more like 9.5cm which is no good, if they are 7.5cm apart then…..)
Take one bolt out from where the caliper slider mounts to the stub axle. Does the threaded part of the bolt fit nicely in a 10mm spanner ? (if no it will be 12mm - no good for a Mk1. If yes then congrats, you've found the right calipers !)
All the calipers I've had have had 'Girling' cast into the tops of them. Many of the 'wrong' Audi ones have VAG stamps, but many of the Girling ones are unsuitable also. Confusing, eh ?!?
Good luck,
Mark

BUMP for good info