Help to identify a car
Posted
#1605109
(In Topic #218700)
Settling In
I am a new user to the forum and a prospective MK1 owner. I am looking to buy a car (hopefully attached to this post) but need some assistance. The car is advertised as Cabrio GTI and the log book is also states that it is a Cabrio GTI so no problem here. But I have a few things to ask:
1. From the photos I saw online some cars do have side signal lights, some do not. Which year have they been introduced or removed? (This one is a 1987)
2. Do all GTIs have that red framed front grille? If you can see the picture, this one does not have that front grille.
3. Do all GTIs have the lower big spoiler and, in my case, is it supposed need to be in white?
4. Obviously the front bumper supposed to be in white colour, am I right?
5. May this car be one of those "all white" editions? If yes the seats of this one are squares not stripes, what gives?
6. This does not have a Karmann badge on the front quarter panels, is this a problem?
7. I read somewhere that the circular gauges fittet at the centre console are not factory items, is this true for GTIs as well. This one has three.
Thank you very much for your help in advance. I am hoping it goes well and I will be one of yous. I will need a lot of help and guidance to restore this car if I buy it—————
Posted
Local Hero
1. Think it was around 1986 model years
2. No, most GTI Cabbys came with a silver grille surrounds, but red does look great on a white car
4. No spoilers on Cabbys were small ones, but in white if you have one of the models in my reply below
4.If you have one of the all white edition or CC edition or Quartet edition cars then yes a white bumper as standard
5. Think it will be a Quartet edition if it's original these came in a pick and mix of body, hood and interior choosing from white, blue, sapphire and red
6. no problem you can buy them occasionally on eBay
7.Three gauges was a dealer option, all consoles have the three holes, just covered with a rectangular blanking plate if no gauges present.
Golf GTI Campaign 1983 Mars Red, Ford S-Max 2015, Audi TT 180 quattro 2003, Fiat 500C 2013, Golf GTE MK7.5
Posted
Local Hero
Have a search online or on here and you can see the sales broachers.
The Gti should have a MFA (computer) in the dash which had oil temp, mpg etc so the gauges were dropped, they are useful if you have voltage and oil pressure but you don't really need 2 oil temperature gauges.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Settling In
So my next question would be:
What would be a fair price for this car? However this looks a bit of a non sense question just judge by the looks. This will give me an idea of a starting point at least. Then I'll go through the engine, interior and body then guess my max. amount.
FYI: Hood is not usable and will need replacing.
Thanks.
Posted
Old Timer
Which means from an originality point of view its not getting any bonus value wise
So we've dropped below the £4k band already but depends on many other factors
Mileage and proof of (on original engine or not)
Previous owners (more important to some than others)
History (more important to some than others)
Roof aside what else needs doing?
And most importantly the structural condition of the car, rust around spare wheel well, suspension turrets, chassis legs, sills, scuttle paneland around windscreen are all places to look out for
I have no idea why but this is my prediction (tell me if I'm wrong)
7 previous owners
120k some history
Respray a few years ago but not brilliant job
Bolsters on drivers seat knackered
That seems to be the most common advert on ebay in recent days and they can be had for around £2750
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Settling In
Could you share what parts are not right with me please?
Posted
Moderator
The car possibly not being 'original' may work for you.
What do you want it to be?
If you want a factory original car that'll be worth more money then this one might not be the one for you.
If you want something to enjoy and it's cheap then it may well be the one for you.
If it's just minor cosmetic stuff like a white bumper and spoiler then these can be painted.
I'd be on the lookout for rust, erratic idling, poor handling, a leaking roof, shabby interiror and any structural problems first. If these are all good then the rest can be sorted reasonably cheaply and easily.
Good luck
Ian
Posted
Old Timer
Have a good look at the chassis legs and slam panel, they may have been replaced for a reason!
No big deal though, a grille from vw heritage is less than £20 and I think the bumpers look better black anyway
Like Ian said if you want one to just drive and enjoy then it doesnt make a difference and could be a good haggling point
Oh and when you go to view it make sure you let it get up to temp and that the fan comes on
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Settling In
I am looking to buy something that I can restore it to something looks like an original with all te parts from the same year but in a long run I'd say. My plan is to restore it as have enough to invest on a part or two.
Buying a fully restored is way too much for me, I can't afford it, but as you say I do not want to end up with a car beyond restoration either.
I'll take some photos tomorrow and upload them here so you may give your opinions to help me.
Thanks for all your responses.
Last edit: by mertgor
Posted
Settling In
mertgor said
Hi again all,
I am looking to buy something that I can restore it to something looks like an original with all te parts from the same year but in a long run I'd say. My plan is to restore it as have enough to invest on a part or two.
Buying a fully restored is way too much for me, I can't afford it, but as you say I do not want to end up with a car beyond restoration either.
I'll take some photos tomorrow and upload them here so you may give your opinions to help me.
Thanks for all your responses.
Posted
Local Hero
A vert is nice to see in the rain as if the top leaks.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settling In
93k miles, 12 previous owners (!)
The front grill came right off as I touched because the holes which the grille teeth supposed to hold on to are out of shape and rusty.
The fan came on after some time although took a while as it was a bit cold in the morning.
Front seats are not in a good condition but rear seats are ok. Lights & wipers work but the fog lights, blower and signals do not.
I could not see any bends in the front but left wing is not aligned with the door. Trims are fine but I think the door handles are not from this car, need advice here.
Rear window frame is broken and will need replacement, hood shock absorbers are not available and those steel wires are all snapped. PVC Hood material, inner insulation and headliner are wasted. Other mechanism related parts look ok.
Fuel pump is very noisy.
Doors close normal, no sagging etc.
Boot lid is ok however the shock absorber (!) is not.
Gears are a bit strange. I did not drive a golf before so I felt a bit "Is the gear in? Oh, may be not, let's try again" if you know what I mean. Brakes are in "What brakes?" condition.
Body is full of patchy paint marks as there are small rusty areas on the surface.
After all that, the asking price is 1700GBP but I think it will go down to 1300.
OK, opinions.
Thanks in advance.
Posted
Local Hero
The Front Valance is a bit more crustier than I am use to seeing, the lower part being puckered isn't that unusual as parking lots and Concrete buttresses take a toll on it.
Top probably needs all 3 layers or 4 if you count the padding wrap, but I usually count that in the 3 pieces.
Top installs are going to cost you about the same as the purchase price if you can't do it yourself, I only know the prices over on this side of the pond.
The undercarriage is a bit rusty/Corroded, and if you can hear the fuel pumps as in Noisy well that isn't a good thing either plan on replacing them sooner rather than later. The exhaust looks leaky, and white smoke out the tail pipe could be condensate from moisture in the system after start which will dissipate when up to temp after 10-15 minutes and should be considered normal, it isn't that unusual, but Sweet Smelling when warm with vapor is a sign of a blown head gasket.
The driver door isn't aligned at all the questions are why? as in it doesn't make good connections to the seals on the door or what. The condition of the hood seals are important as well.
No brakes? No parcel shelf or spare in the boot. Iffy interior….. No parcel shelf is the leading cause of major rear window top failures.
I bought a 93 with a blown head gasket, top that had to be replaced as well as a dented left hand door.
and I only paid 1500usd for it. And I drove it 200 miles to get it home in the rain…
Figure on about 4K in repairs easily.
The issue I have seen over the years is "Rabbit" fever.
I have seen outrageous priced POS, and underpriced Gems…… this would fall in to the former.
If you aren't wrench worthy, and will rely on shops to get it back in shape, then you should have an open wallet.
If you can do repairs yourself then that isn't too bad, because the parts alone are going to be double at least to your purchase price alone to get it road worthy, and over there you have to get it MOT'd which may entail further spending that even I can't account for.
The hardest part is going to get it watertight, rust free, and back to Daily Driver state.
It has been well driven and abused.
my 2 pence.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
Walk away.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
7 of them have purchased it to restore before and decided against it, dont become the 8th!
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Local Hero
By the time you've sorted the scabby body/paint, fitted a whole new roof and sourced a nicer interior + the million other little jobs (gas strut on tail gate, grille fittings, battery clamp) you'll be at the £ an already nice one costs without all the work.
Don't build if you can buy.
Last edit: by Early-1800
1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
Posted
Moderator
Posted
Settling In
I will be on the look for a better one.
Posted
Local Hero
mertgor said
OK all thank you for your advises, appreciated.
I will be on the look for a better one.
You will be glad you did, so will your pocket book.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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