Thermostat housing bolts snapped, help needed for new water pump.
Posted
#1559895
(In Topic #209538)
Old Timer
Thanks in advance.👍🏻
Mars red 1.8 GTI tintop now MOT'd and on the road!
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Posted
MOTY 2013
037121010c is part number for the complete pump unit, but is the later type which is also used on the mk2 golf. the earlier pumps are the same except for the pulley mounting differ so you need to use the right pulley to match the pump.
026121005h is later type impeller half, so no use to you
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Local Hero
If not sure which water pump you need send them an e-mail/phone call I'm sure they will help.
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g1cooling.php
I guess this one depending on the year of your car?
AVS Car Parts
And this thermostat housing.
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=553
You will need to get some new bolts for the housing.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Old Timer
The car is a 1983 1.8GTI tintop with the DX engine. I think the thermostat housing with the hose connection is ok. Is there anything special about the bolts or are they just an m6?
I'll have a good look at those links when I get home from work.
Thanks.
Mars red 1.8 GTI tintop now MOT'd and on the road!
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fwent-to-look-at-a-golf&kfs79=150
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Posted
MOTY 2013
if its a plastic flange then replace it, they always warp and wont re-seal. if its an 83 then it should be late type they changed around april 1982. but a part number off the pulley will confirm. worst case as I say get late pump and a new pulley to match it
I think Mark Carter at classic-vw.co.uk has the old type pump if you need it
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Local Hero
Torque wrench, and Never-Seize.
The bolts on the water pump to housing, and t-stat cover to housing are to be torqued to no more than 87 Inch/Lbs. Convert it.
The Bolts all bolts even on a new housing should be coated in either Never-Seize or Wrapped in Teflon Tape.
Now with that said, I have had good luck in doing the following.
Soaking the Broken bolt from above and Below with PB-Blaster, and letting it work over night, then Spraying it again.
Using Left-Handed Drill Bits, select one that is smaller than the Diameter of the bolt and Center Punch the Bolt shard.
In a reversible Drill in reverse drill the bolt. The drill will cut and then bind a wee bit, then the bolt or screw will back out really fast….I have a 3/8 drive reversing hammer drill and the hammer feature actually hels a great deal.
You could try this, and if it works great, of it doesn't then you aren't out but the time.
If your t-stat housing bolts snapped then don't try to remove the Pump on the car as those will snap as well usually.
The difference in the Pumps is the Pulley, as in 30mm or 40mm, so knowing the size of the hub hole is going to help you. I think they went to 30mm in the latter 80's.
I know that I just measure it prior to ordering.
After you have set the bolts to the proper torque and used never-seize, I spray the Back side of all my Pump Bolts with Battery Corrosion paint to keep moisture and road spray off the back side of the bolts.
Getting a new t-stat cover if plastic is a good thing….
Finding a metal one at the parts yard, or breakers is a better thing, I was so thankful when over here GAP sold a metal t-stat cover for my Cabriolet, I leapt at the chance to get them, and glad I did as they sold out in a few weeks, and from my email inquiry, they are never to be seen again.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
Briano1234 Are you saying that the likelihood is that I will snap the 8mm bolts holding the pump to the block? I will have a go at removing the studs before stripping it down but I would be putting off the inevitable as sooner or later I'm gonna have to replace the water pump and I will be back to this stage. Also, is there another name for never sieze?
Thanks for your help everybody, it's much appreciated .
I'll keep you posted.
Mars red 1.8 GTI tintop now MOT'd and on the road!
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fwent-to-look-at-a-golf&kfs79=150
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Posted
Local Hero
You can remove the pump from the block, which I find is easier, in the ARCHIVE how-to's there is a Thread by me that has how I remove a water pump.
8mm? I thought on the WP all the bolts are 10mm.
On my Cabbies I take the alternator off, then I remove the a/c compressor off the mount. (hoses still attached).
I take the a/c bracket off, then there are only the hoses and 2 bolts holding the wp assembly on the car.
If you haven't taken your pump off I strongly suggest that you soak the front and rear of the bolts with PB-Blaster or Kroil, or what ever you use for a couple of days, then I have successfully used a electric impact and a 6pt 10mm socket to remove the bolts.
If your Pump Bolts have been installed forever, then they are probably corroded and will shear if you use a spanner, the impact seems to work well, but then again I have sheared older bolts off with that as well.
You will have to google Never-Seize
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm
I have bought 2 16 oz jars of it, over 40 years of wrenching, and to be honest, I just replaced the first bottle about 5 years ago. My Mech who aligns my car, loves it when I come in, as the Tie-rods and such aren't frozen….
If images aren't appearing in my how to's it is because I amthinking photobucket is having issues today.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
When you remove the water pump and housing clean up the face on the block then you will get a good seal. As briano1234 said don't bother undoing all the nuts and bolts around the side of the water pump as that will just remove the pump from the housing and you really want to replace it all.
I use copper grease on my bolts.
I can get photobucket to work either so I'll post up some pictures later.
Undo the 4 bolts no. 15 and 16 (2 shorter bolts and 2 longer bolts) in the link, don't brother undoing no. 5 bolts (don't go by the part numbers on the link as it's the 1st picture I found so they might not be right?)
http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/GO/year/1983/drive_standart/7/hg_ug/121/subcategory/15000/part_id/3735803/lang/f
Last edit: by mark1gls
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Old Timer
There is a long bolt that goes through the water pump and through the timing belt cover with a nut on the other side that holds the timing belt cover on, do I need to keep this as it's solid in the water pump at the moment which added to the difficulty in getting the pump off.
Thanks for the help guys.
Mars red 1.8 GTI tintop now MOT'd and on the road!
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fwent-to-look-at-a-golf&kfs79=150
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fwent-to-look-at-a-golf&kfs79=150
Posted
Local Hero
The long bolt is to stabilize the mount to the block.
Only 1 "t" bolt and 10mm nut to get the wp off the car on the timing cover…
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/maintenance-fluids-and-greases/penetrating-fluids/?549774741&0&
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Local Hero
Anti-Never-Seize. this pick is for the Mummification of the lower rear shock bolt, so you never have to cut it out again…..
Yes I wrap it from head to thread with Teflon Tape and Slather it with Never-Seize.
Same Bolt 7 years later, unwrapped and removed.
Cutting that frozen sucker out on my first time to me rear shock replacement.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
Mars red 1.8 GTI tintop now MOT'd and on the road!
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fwent-to-look-at-a-golf&kfs79=150
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fwent-to-look-at-a-golf&kfs79=150
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