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Thermo time switch multimeter test

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Hi

I have a thermo-time switch I suspect might be faulty. The engine is not yet mounted, and I'd like to verify if it's a bad one before I start it. Does anyone know what the ohm-readings should be at the W and G terminal?

The only measure I am able to get is from the TTS body to the G, which is around 67 ohm, warm or freezing. From the body to W and between G and W there is no reading/open circuit. The TTS also rattles like a broken incandescent bulb, so something seems quite loose inside it. Don't know if that's normal. Any input appreciated.

Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door

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W should have continuity to the metal casing, this is the switch to earth for the 5th injector.  G should have some resistance as its the heater.

but the fact it rattles tells me its probably knackered, cant say I've ever heard one do that :lol:

if you make up a test circuit say with a lamp and battery, the bulb should light up if you run circuit via the W and casing.  if you put 12v between the G terminal and casing after a while W should go open circuit

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Thanks. Then it is definitely broken, there is no continuity between W and the casing. It also rattles like nuts so it can't possibly supposed to be that way. I'll leave it for the cat to play with :ocf_emoticons__icon_lol:I found some info on a porsche forum about the appropriate ohm-readings on a bosch thermo-time switch. The readings might be different on a golf, but I suspect they are more or less the same. I'll post them here for reference:

_ v _
w ..g


notch on top, w is on left g on right


g to ground is …..

under 86F/30C* 25-40 ohms
over 104F/40C* is 50-80 ohms

w to ground is

under 86F/30C* 0 ohms
over 104F/40C* 100-160 ohms

w to g is

under 86F/30C* 25-40 ohms
over 104F/40C* 50-80 ohms

 

Last edit: by goldie_88


Early 77 year model Golf. 4-Door
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