Starting issues on 1982 1.6 GTI

Hello need a little help I have a issue that after driving my car and switching it off  for a while it refuses to start again I thought it was the fuel accumulator but I took out the screw and no fuel leaked out, I then replaced the screw and started the car up to running temp and then switched off and removed the screw again but still no fuel dribbles out  even tho the accumulator sits at a little incljne i would of expected something to come out I even moved it about a bit to see if fuel will come out because of the incline, so I think the fuel accumulator is ok, when this happened recently I did tap and push in the relays and wires at the fuse box and it did manage  to fire up quicker than usual, but then it plays up again, also if it was wiring related it would refuse to start from cold, is there there any other wiring or relays I could check other than the fuel pump relay at the fuse box or is there any other component that I could check the car is a  1982 1.6 GTI thanks in advance

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I had a similar issue on my 1980 1.6 GTI

Turned out to be some split var hose on the inlet manifold and badly adjusted timing to compensate for it. Was running really advanced. It is now a little too retarded but having a new 4 branch fitted next month so will wait to time wants that is fitted.




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Mine was running fine but has now developed this issue it's starts and drives fine on cold just after driving it for a whilst parking up and leaving it for a bit it refuses to started, it does kind of fire up a little and then dies and by a little I mean just a brief split second fire up and then dies and then just have to keep trying and it turns over but doesn't fire till some time later, I did notice like playing with the wires and relays  on fuse box made it start up quick now I don't really use the car much so unsure if this helped or if it was just me thinking it helped as if it was a wiring or relay I would believe it wouldnt start from cold and not start up with in few minute when switching off after a drive at operating temperature just makes me think where else to look further

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If it starts okay from cold but not from hot and when it does start it coughs and splutters then runs I would begin with a 'holding pressure test' , you'll need a pressure gauge though, and although you shouldn't need it a fire extinguisher.

What sort of gauge is needed and where would I connect it thanks

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The gauge goes in line between the fuel distributor and the WUR, you have to de-pressurise the system to fit it and ideally have a means of running the fuel pump without starting the engine. I've just got an old fuel pump relay with a heavy length of flexy cable soldered to the large spades on the relay with a switch on the other end, it works okay.

If you are losing pressure then it could be the injectors are dribbling and flooding the engine hence it splutters and hunts when it does finally start as the excess fuel is burnt.

 I think I'm right in saying that with a loss from anywhere else the problem will be not enough fuel and the engine will run almost perfectly when  pressure is built up although there could be vapour in the lines if the car is hot.

One thing you could try is warming it up until it reaches the point where it struggles to start, turn it off, leave it for a few minutes then start it up and when it starts turn it off and have a look at the plugs, if they're wet and a bit sooty you have too much fuel, pale and dry not enough.

If you google 'Bosch K-jet fuel pressure gauge' something should come up.

If you're near Falmouth I'll have a quick look at it for you.

Mine was doing exactly the same last year, starts on the button, but if left parked up for between 1-4 hours took huge amount if cranking to get it to start.

I swapped the fuel pump,relay for a no 17 one which runs the fuel pump constantly when ignition is turned on, not just a quick priming boost.  I had no problem afterwards.

This does  cause an issue though if you have an accident as fuel pump wont cut out.  If the problem persists with the original relay goes in after my engine rebuild, i am going to revert back to the no 17 relay and get a fuel cut off inertia switch off a modern car installed.

I see my fuel pump primes, I also had someone tell the non return valve on the fuel pump could be giving way

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cedar said

The gauge goes in line between the fuel distributor and the WUR, you have to de-pressurise the system to fit it and ideally have a means of running the fuel pump without starting the engine. I've just got an old fuel pump relay with a heavy length of flexy cable soldered to the large spades on the relay with a switch on the other end, it works okay.

If you are losing pressure then it could be the injectors are dribbling and flooding the engine hence it splutters and hunts when it does finally start as the excess fuel is burnt.

 I think I'm right in saying that with a loss from anywhere else the problem will be not enough fuel and the engine will run almost perfectly when  pressure is built up although there could be vapour in the lines if the car is hot.

One thing you could try is warming it up until it reaches the point where it struggles to start, turn it off, leave it for a few minutes then start it up and when it starts turn it off and have a look at the plugs, if they're wet and a bit sooty you have too much fuel, pale and dry not enough.

If you google 'Bosch K-jet fuel pressure gauge' something should come up.

If you're near Falmouth I'll have a quick look at it for you.

What would be the best way to depressurise the system I have made a couple of spade connectors with a inline fuse to get the pump to run constant without starting the car, so basically I have to depressurise the system, add the gauge between the fuel distributor and WUR and the keep my pump running , then switch off the pump and see how long it holds pressure ? Am I correct ?

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The gauge has a tap on the WUR side so with that open it reads control pressure and closed system pressure.

To do a holding pressure you have to run the engine until warm with the gauge connected and tap open and then turn the engine off, wait for ten minutes or so and check the pressure which should be above a certain limit which you will have to look up, I seem to remember the Haynes manual covers the 1.6.

I'm not sure of the 'book' way to de-pressurise but I  just left the car overnight and then fitted the gauge in the morning before starting it with some rags to soak up any petrol that escaped with residual pressure, probably not the way a Bosch agent would do it though.

Remember you're working close to the battery so if you have a go be really careful, cover it well. Years ago when I was looking for a Mk1 GTI I went to sae a 1.6 for sale that had been set on fire, not sure what happened but it was a real mess around that area, at the time there were plenty of spares in the breakers but I didn't realise that and didn't buy it, they only wanted £100 or so for it.

I'd go with fuel pressure over electrical to begin with.

The fuel boils in the lines under the hot engine bay if its not under pressure hence the poor hot start. On both my GTI's you can hear the accumulator spring "ping" as it slowly loses pressure over 20 minutes or so.
You could try cracking one of the fuel filter banjos after 10 minutes to see what pressures in there but be careful as if its still highly pressurised it will spray a good amount of fuel over everywhere. If it doesn't then there's your problem. The system pressure is around 70psi after switch off and should take a minimum of 20 minutes to lose the majority of its pressure to give you an idea. As I said be careful with this method!!

Borrow, steel or buy a fire extinguisher please if using this method otherwise it may be the last you see of a useable golf.  


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This is stating the obvious, I'm the master of that, but be sure you have one that will work on petrol.

There's a few guides on pressure testing the Bosch K jet fuel system on you tube. Search Bosch k jet, Bosch cis and you should find a few..

K-Jet Fuel Pressure Testing - YouTube

Some update today, I had the car started today, I let it warm up to running temp and then switched it off for 20 mins went back to the car and started it and it fired up as normal, I then let it warm up again to running temp and switched it off for 15 mins and went back to the car and started it up again it started as normal I repeated this process for 10 mins and 5 mins rest time and on all 4 occasions it started without issues so now I'm wondering what it could be as, normally a quick stop at the super market or a quick stop at the petrol station and it refused to start but now I'm all 4 occasions it fired up like there was no issues so bit confused now

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Just idling up to temp doesn't really generate the heat in the gearbox and surrounding parts etc to really get a good volume of heat build up into the fuel lines etc under the bonnet to warm everything to the same as if you'd been out in it. Not a fair test I'd say.