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Sounds Like a kettle boiling when Stopped

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Head? Air Lock? Something Else?

Help, as always, very much appreciated……

My Mk1 Caddy 85 got 8v has been standing for around 5 years. Got it all together and working great a couple of months ago.

Around 2 weeks ago, one of the hoses split. The top one that runs to the oil cooler. I trimmed the pipe re-attached and it split again.
Got a new pipe.

A few days later, after a short journey, the top Radiator hose exploded in dramatic fashion after the car had been stood still a few minutes.
It ripped apart nearly the whole length of the pipe.

When the pipes split, I lost a massive amount of engine oil too.

I replaced the oil cooler and now have it all back together.

After the car is up to temperature and you turn it off it sounds like a kettle boiling. I can still squeeze the hoses easily.
There is a fair amount of junk in the water reservoir, but I don't seem to be losing any oil.

Other than those issues, the car runs fantastic. No smoke, no running issues of any kind. Temperatures seem to all behave normally.

Could it be anything else now other than the head / gasket?


Thanks for your time.


Mark

 

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Stuck T-stat.

Quick head test.

Cold Engine.

Remove res cap.

Tie latex glove over open res hole tightly.

Start car,
From under the hood raise the RPM to 3000 for 30-no-longer-than-45 seconds.
Gloves inflates and gives you the finger Blown head gasket or leaking oil cooler.
Shut down after 45 seconds as the glove will auto inflate.

Head Gaskets that got Blown to me are always Oil or Exhaust pressurizing the hoses as makes them tight to squeeze ballooning.
The oil pressure being greater won't usually allow intermix….

I would replace the oil cooler first if you suspect a head gasket.  especially if it is original.

 

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also wondering would the cambelt/timing belt tensioner have anything to do with it...

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Thanks Folks. Here is some feedback…

Changed Oil Cooler for a brand new one yesterday.

Tried the glove over the reservoir. It did not inflate until after around a minute. After 2 minutes, it started to very slowly inflate. Never looked like it was getting much pressure.

Pipes are all nice and squiggly whether hot or cold, apart from one of the smaller pipes attached to the oil cooler.

Plugs all look a nice dry golden brown colour.

No signs of water in the oil.

Definitely signs of oil in the water though.

When running, water runs nice and smooth and clear into the reservoir. When up to temperature, and stopped it does spurt and stop a bit and a bit of gloop comes with it.

I replaced the thermostat when I put it back on the road a couple of months ago. Not saying that means it isn't stuck though.

No signs of any other issues. Everything else seems perfect.

 

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While timing is alway a possibility, I wouldn't say no, but bursting hoses are a sign of either weak or old hoses that have lost elasticity (read DEAD), or other things being wrong.

I would start with the glove test to rule out a head gasket and if it fails then I would change the oil cooler out first and re-run the glove test to either verify that the oil cooler is the issue or that the head gasket is suspect.

If the head gasket is bad, have the head check for warpage, and USE NEW BOLTS.

If the Head is in the Shop to be checked now would be the time to get them to remove the valve cover studs and convert it to a no-shouldered rubber gasket.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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What sort of oil cooler do you have, later type that cools the oil with water or early type and air cooled oil cooler?

What colour is your expansion tank cap, black or blue?

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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MarkCab1 said

Thanks Folks. Here is some feedback…

Changed Oil Cooler for a brand new one yesterday.

Tried the glove over the reservoir. It did not inflate until after around a minute. After 2 minutes, it started to very slowly inflate. Never looked like it was getting much pressure.

Pipes are all nice and squiggly whether hot or cold, apart from one of the smaller pipes attached to the oil cooler.

Plugs all look a nice dry golden brown colour.

No signs of water in the oil.

Definitely signs of oil in the water though.

When running, water runs nice and smooth and clear into the reservoir. When up to temperature, and stopped it does spurt and stop a bit and a bit of gloop comes with it.

I replaced the thermostat when I put it back on the road a couple of months ago. Not saying that means it isn't stuck though.

No signs of any other issues. Everything else seems perfect.


When an oil cooler goes because the oil pressure exceeds the pressure on the coolant, Oil usually seeps in to the A/F (black gunk ring on res) and the block gets oily water….

Since the glove test is not Valid after 35 seconds @ 3000 it will auto inflate because of the 14ps1 pressure in the system and the fluid getting up to temp.

So I would suspect the oil cooler….. As the oil cooler hoses usually split first from what I have seen.  On the 90-ish over here they didn't install the oil coolers, 89 yes 90 nope.  So I installed an External oil cooler….

You have probably fixed it.  I would think on draining the cooling system, and Flush and Back flush it with about 1tsp of DAWN liquid detergent.
Then Flush and Back flush until you get clean water, and no bubbles.

If you want to I would suggest changing the t-stat for grins as to do a good flush you need it out of the system.

Leave your heater on full hot, or do it separately, you won't believe how much better your heater will work.

If you run the engine and the hoses don't balloon or harden then you usually don't have an issue fixed the issue, and no worries.  You just have to clean the things up a bit now.

The original oil cooler on the golfs was tied to the water system, so it is more of an oil stabilizer than a cooler as it is as hot as the coolant.
It tends to get the engine up to temp quicker for emissions but that is about it. The removal of it for externals looses 2 hoses and that little "t" expensive hose which is a pain to get on or off.

I have preferred External coolers for ever, as there is no intermix of a/f-to-oil, actually vice versa…. and an external that is temp controlled works better.  I know that on my autos when rolling down the highway at 75mph on 85-95 degree days my oil temp rarely exceeds 105.


 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Thanks Folks.

This is the oil cooler I replaced:
https://www.vwheritage.com/068117021b-oil-cooler-mk1-2-golf-t25-t4-petrol-and-diesel-models

The res cap is black.

I've ordered a new T-stat and will do a full flush and clean of the system.
Any advice on avoiding getting air into the system when refilling from scratch?

Thanks again.

Mark

 

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Yes that's a water feed oil cooler.

Make sure the heater is set to HOT before doing anything.

I refill my system by removing the top radiator hose at the radiator end then you can angle it up a little, pour some coolant into the expansion tank then pour some more into the removed top radiator hose till it starts to come out then quickly put it back on the radiator and secure, if you are careful you can put in enough coolant to just get to hose and then place the hose onto the radiator without it all going over the floor!

Top up coolant in expansion tank to MAX.

Leave the cap off and start the car, this should start to move the coolant around the system and bled out any air, give the hoses a squeeze to help, top up the coolant if it starts to drop. Only run the engine with the cap of for no more then about 5 minutes then put the cap back on and leave the car to run till the bottom radiator hose gets hot and the heater in the car gets hot. Keep and eye on the temperature gauge

Stop the car let it cool down, this will take a few hours the top up coolant if needed.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Drill a 1/8 to 1/16 hole in the Lip of the t-stat and you never have to worry about the Dreaded Air bubble from hades when you are filling it.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Ooooh. That sounds scary!!!

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MarkCab1 said

Ooooh. That sounds scary!!!

Only if the drill slips down your pants.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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try a new blue tank cap as well, the pressure valves inside can fail. ive never had to drill a hole in any thermostat I have installed, I just follow my bleeding technique and am happy ;)

http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=14913

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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The new Blue Tank cap fixed it!!!  Everything seems to be running great again now. Still getting a bit of mayo in the water tank. Will keep an eye on it to see if it gets worse. For now it's running great.

Thanks for the help everyone.

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if you're getting oil in the water its usually the oil cooler thats gone.

fingers crossed the new cooler has fixed it and you're just getting a little residue from before, but it might be the excessive pressure has killed the new one as well

I use a cupful of washing powder to flush oil out of the coolant system, others have put a dishwasher tablet in there. whatever you have in the cupboard will be fine really. you could even use, now I know this is radical thinking, but there are specific coolant flush products on the market. I know right, I must be crazy to suggest it. what was I thinking :lol:

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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rubjonny said

if you're getting oil in the water its usually the oil cooler thats gone.

fingers crossed the new cooler has fixed it and you're just getting a little residue from before, but it might be the excessive pressure has killed the new one as well

I use a cupful of washing powder to flush oil out of the coolant system, others have put a dishwasher tablet in there. whatever you have in the cupboard will be fine really. you could even use, now I know this is radical thinking, but there are specific coolant flush products on the market. I know right, I must be crazy to suggest it. what was I thinking :lol:

My Niece had the Oil Cooler/AF intermix, that Jellied the coolant, and would screw around in her heater core so it would stop working she had a 2002VW AWD.

A Friend of mine who works on later DUBS Mercs, and BMW said that his favorite is after resolving the leaky oil coolers, he adds 1 TSB of "DAWN" Liguid to the Coolant and Drives the car about 20 minutes, then Drains and flushes and reflushes the system.  He said, "Dawn don't hurt oil covered ducks, and is kind to my hands. "

I usually do this on MK1's after I have removed the T-stat to ensure good flow, and I don't drive my car, I just let it idle for about 10 minutes….. With the t'stat removed I get the flush and back flush to work great.

To drain after the Flush, I usually disconnect the lower hose, and drain.  Replace it and then using the upper hose, I use it to flush and back flush.  I also wrap plastic all over the Dizzy.

Now for the Weep Hole in the t-stat lip, certain manufactures add a hole in the lip of t-stats with a counter weight.  My Honda, and eagle had them as they could get the ait bubble at the top of the block/head.

I personally do it as I am getting lazy in my old age.
But even with the weep hole, I do the fill the radiator. then the Block attach the hose, Pull a sensor, and fill the remainder from the Sensor hole (90 plastic flanges)
and BURP the system as it is running and top off.  The weep is my friend, and allows for no bubble.  My Choice, the only real difference is that if you remove the t-stat prior to the Douching when taking it out, you get a little dribble…..





 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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aye whatever works, the washing powder worked a treat on my gti after it blew its oil cooler. slightly annoying as it waited till after i treated it to fresh oil, heater matrix and coolant, but hey ho :lol:

technically the vw cooling system is fully self-bleeding if you check elsawin there is nothing in there detaining any kind of 'method' for bleeding it you just fill it with water put the cap on then run it up to temp, if the system then needs filling up once cooled then you go ahead and do so.

I don't trust this method so the way i do it is fill the system up, then run it with the cap off. squeeze each and every hose you can get to while its warming up, and every now and again rev the engine a bit this gets the coolant moving. keep an eye on the outlet from the thin hose to the tank, you should see a stream of coolant and bubbles as you rev it which tells you the system is self bleeding happily.  If the levels drop top it up as you go, and when the coolant hoses get too hot to touch refit the cap. if the level starts to rise or you see bubbles in the tank then refit the cap right away, if you let it fully boil then bubbles will have formed in the system and you'll have to start again.

the way the coolant system is plumbed air can make its way out of the radiator without much trouble, especially on the later systems with the header tank. on the earlier topfill rads they can be more troublesome, on those if you back fill the block down the top hose before you fill the radiator that can help shift troublesome air locks.

drilling a hole in the stat wont hurt anything, but the way I see it if this was needed Vw would have specified a hole to be made in the stat from the factory :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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