Replacement Calliper bolts

Hi all, hoping that someone has had the same issue below and can provided some assistance.

Basically, im trying to replace the original socket head bolts (with integral sleeve) that my Mk1 came with, as shown below:

I mistakenly ordered the following bolts, as recommended by (VW parts supplier who ill leave unnamed), part numbers N04-475-53 and N01-471-53 (M8x55 and M8x45).

On arrival, i realised that the original bolts are M10, so the above bolts are obviously not correct for my set-up, which as far as Im aware is original?

new callipers

This image shows the M8 bolt heads sitting snugly in the rubber sleeves in the new callipers - hence my concern that perhaps I have the wrong callipers for my carriers? I.e. M10 bolt holes in my carriers, M8 bolts that seem to be correct for the callipers?

The callipers Ive bought seem to be the same as the ones ive taken off, so maybe its just the wrong bolts ive ordered.

Does anyone know the correct part numbers for the bolts I need?

Rather annoyingly the online parts listing thing I use just says' no longer available' instead of listing the part number. I can highly recommend Bigg Red for brake parts. Might be worth giving them a call as you will be able to give them the dimensions of the original they should be able to help you out.

In your one picture, you have the bolts in the wrong sides of the caliper, the short one goes in the short side the long one goes in the long side.

For the Caliper bolts that are original you can clean them up and get them smooth again if they aren't too pitted or rounded.

I know that I have often grabbed the bolts out of one in a wrecking yard to have on hand in case I lost one.

The calipers didn't change, the change was in the spindles, and the bolts.  The spindles and the bolts of latter Mk1 were witched to mk2 style with used a smaller bolt, with sleeves on them or bushes.  The spindles were also changed from the m10 holes to the m8.

The original ones were respectivly
M10X125X63, and by 56 as your original ones were.

Later the Cabriolets changed over to M8's and used a steel sleeve or Bushing as you may want to call it and were m8X 45 and 55.  You would need to have the proper spindles to effect the change and I have seen over the years that the sleeve can rust bind on the bolts
So getting them out is a PITA or I should say freeing the Sleeves from the bolts is a PITA.

Since it is Easier to Clean and re-use your old ones, you can even have metal welded to them if severely pitted, you can also after good cleaning and removal of rust in the pitted areas use a hi-temp Epoxy to fill the voids and sand them smooth.  I know that when I clean mine I start with 600 grit and work my way up to 2000.

Whilst the OEM bolts are NLA, you are left with sourcing new Spindles, and since 100mm Spindles can work with either 90mm or 100mm axles that may be the way you want to go IMHO.




 

Briano1234 said

In your one picture, you have the bolts in the wrong sides of the caliper, the short one goes in the short side the long one goes in the long side.

For the Caliper bolts that are original you can clean them up and get them smooth again if they aren't too pitted or rounded.

I know that I have often grabbed the bolts out of one in a wrecking yard to have on hand in case I lost one.

The calipers didn't change, the change was in the spindles, and the bolts.  The spindles and the bolts of latter Mk1 were witched to mk2 style with used a smaller bolt, with sleeves on them or bushes.  The spindles were also changed from the m10 holes to the m8.

The original ones were respectivly
M10X125X63, and by 56 as your original ones were.

Later the Cabriolets changed over to M8's and used a steel sleeve or Bushing as you may want to call it and were m8X 45 and 55.  You would need to have the proper spindles to effect the change and I have seen over the years that the sleeve can rust bind on the bolts
So getting them out is a PITA or I should say freeing the Sleeves from the bolts is a PITA.

Since it is Easier to Clean and re-use your old ones, you can even have metal welded to them if severely pitted, you can also after good cleaning and removal of rust in the pitted areas use a hi-temp Epoxy to fill the voids and sand them smooth.  I know that when I clean mine I start with 600 grit and work my way up to 2000.

Whilst the OEM bolts are NLA, you are left with sourcing new Spindles, and since 100mm Spindles can work with either 90mm or 100mm axles that may be the way you want to go IMHO.




 

Thanks Briano.

The bolts in the first pic are actually the same length - I just put them in to demonstrate the socket head clearance (or lack of) with the rubber sleeve. I will put the long/short bolts in the correct location once I have ones to use!

Unfortunately the originals are beyond use - 2 of 4 anyway - the sockets are so rounded I actually had to cut one in half and then punch it out.

Do you know if there is a direct replacement for the originals, i.e. M10 socket cap bolts with sleeves?

The originals appear obsolete…im assuming someone has found a suitable alternative somewhere?

paceman said

Rather annoyingly the online parts listing thing I use just says' no longer available' instead of listing the part number. I can highly recommend Bigg Red for brake parts. Might be worth giving them a call as you will be able to give them the dimensions of the original they should be able to help you out.

Thanks paceman, ill try Bigg Red.

If I understand correctly, are you saying you wouldn't get an M10 socket head bolt in the rubber sleeves? I was going to suggest an M10 socket head and a suitable bushing over  - you might have to get that done by a machine shop mind.

You've confused me too (its easily done). Are the threads different or the socket 'hole' different?

Do the new ones screw in ok?

Are the new ones regular bolts with a sleve or soild one piece like the originals (you didn't take a pic old/new side by side)

paceman said

If I understand correctly, are you saying you wouldn't get an M10 socket head bolt in the rubber sleeves? I was going to suggest an M10 socket head and a suitable bushing over  - you might have to get that done by a machine shop mind.

Yes, thats what I was thinking. I checked again last night though and the steel sleeves are clearly designed for use with an M10 bolt so I have to assume that the rubber sleeves can accommodate an M10 socket head.

In any case, sounds like Bigg Red may be able to assist - if so ill post the outcome for other's to reference.

Cheers

Early-1800 said

You've confused me too (its easily done). Are the threads different or the socket 'hole' different?

Do the new ones screw in ok?

Are the new ones regular bolts with a sleve or soild one piece like the originals (you didn't take a pic old/new side by side)

No - new bolts are M8, bolt holes in carrier are M10. New bolts are bolts only, callipers come with a separate sleeve.

As per above post - its pretty clear that M10 bolts are needed, may be as straightforward as sourcing M10 bolts in the correct lengths, although Bigg Red may have a better option.

https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/front-brake-caliper-slide-pin-kit-early-171698447a-mk1-golf-jetta-caddy-scirocco-15573-p.asp

sporttrucker said

https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/front-brake-caliper-slide-pin-kit-early-171698447a-mk1-golf-jetta-caddy-scirocco-15573-p.asp

Great thanks!