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Oil buzzer unless I'm revving it

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Back again with another issue. Tonight after the car got warm the oil warning light and buzzer started going off until I revved it a bit then it stopped instantly and stayed off for a few mins then it did it again so again I revved it and it dissappeared. I'm confused what it could be tomorrow when it's light I'll have a good look round it. It's got a fairly new oil pump in it so I doubt it's that. Any help would be fantastic guys and gals

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Check the sensor, corroded connections on it.
As I don't know which you may have it is on the side of the head.  There are two types Can on the side of the head common on GTI's and Cabriolets have 2 wires on it that are your low pressure switch and your oil pressure switch for the console gauge.  

If you are running a generic or store branded Oil filter they have been know to cause issues with idle and flakey lights….

You Low pressure when running switch (that is on the oil filter flange usually white to the Cabbies), usually causes the buzzer…. The connections on the White and the single pin on the head Probably need to be tightened, cleaned, or replaced.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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I'll have a look first thing in the morning and just incase I'll order a new sensor/switch atleast then I can say I've replaced it.

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errrrr.... why has it had a new oil pump? Was that to cure low oil pressure/sensors going off?

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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The previous owner said they changed it last year. But at the same time they said alot that I've had to tinker and fix myself. So I'm just taking there word for it at the minute until I need to take the sump off.

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Cars always bring out the best in people…… What's wrong with just admitting that's is a 40 year old car with starship mileage and a dozen careless owners and its a big pile of poo money pit.

People that in the rest of their life are normally as honest and straightforward as the day is long suddenly, when cars become involved, turn into bent thieving lying barstewards. 

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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Very true but I only paid 710 for a Xmas edition cabby with the number plate D85 elf (das elf) and I'm not one of these dumb people who think that buying a classic project that was cheap isn't without its faults but at the same time you'd expect some honesty about it either way I'm only fixing problems as they occur rather than opening a can of worms and think f**King hell. So far so good though simple full water system change eg. Rad pump sensors fan and a fiddle with the dash thanks to briano giving me The info on that one. Anyway stop with the rant all the connections look gd so ill swap out the sensor and see what happens worst case new pump so I can say I defo know its been done with my hand on heart.

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forde1812 said

ll swap out the sensor and see what happens worst case new pump so I can say I defo know its been done with my hand on heart.

If you have a Canned sensor for the Oil Pressure/ Low Oil at Idle, then you may want to check the oil pressure with a Mechanical gauge before buying the sensors.

As the worst case is that you have main and intermediate bearing issues.  If you do buy a pump do the 2.0L pump as the gears are taller and have better pressure.  The difference between 32 and 36mm gears.
Certain years require  longer bolts to bolt the new pump to the block.  I also suggest that you buy a new oil windage or sump as I have broken the fingers once that hold it on, also on the larger pumps you take the pickup tube off the old unit, and place it on the newer one as it is shorter and will clear the oil pan and allow it to mount correctly.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Mine kept doing his I removed the sump and found the oil pick up clogged up ! Replaced it and was all good after 

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Again your  a superstar the knowledge is top class. As before start start with the cheap and work my way up so atleast I know it's all good.

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the white 1.8 bar switch on the filter housing is what triggers light and buzzer, but it should only sound at around 2krpm and above. the one in the head is 0.24/0.3 bar and triggers light ignition on and if pressure drops at idle.

if the buzzer goes off under 2k rpm that is sometimes a fault in the cluster or a wiring issue. if its got MFA clocks check the earth for the cluster to the head, its a brown/white wire with ring terminal.

if the wires all look good, earth the black/blue wire that goes to the white switch on the filter housing. if buzzer still sounds its a cluster fault or wiring issue further back. if buzzer stops then its oil pressure issue

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

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You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Forde1812 did you solve this issue,if so can you let me know how you got on please 

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Having Similiar issues:

I have a 1989 Cabriolet GTi 1.8 8v DX. ~160k miles

The high pressure oil switch would light up and buzz around 2.3k rpm in 5th gear, intermittently, and go off when going below 2k rpm or over 2.5k rpm. This switch was rated at 1.53-1.93 bar.

I bought a replacement from GSF (Topran: rated at 1.6-2.0 bar white) and am getting the same issue. i have also flushed the engine with Pro-tec Engine flush, inspected oil pump, put a new sump gasket and plug/washer and fresh synta oil 10w40  incl VAG oil filter.

Still same issue!
There is no knocking noises, bangs, or hesitation or smoke.

The switch is the white one on top of oil cooler with blue/black wire. what else can i do to test?

Wiring?
Oil Pressure?










Birmingham

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earth the blue/black wire. if problem persists, its wirign or cluster fault. if not, its oil pressure fault, or incorrect switch

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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How old are your main grounds, if they are still original, then you might consider replacing the Battery to frame and frame to engine grounds with new off the shelf cables….  You can also get the new ground leads with additional wire connections usually 2 or 3 and get some of those additional wire connections off the bolt.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Try a different make of pressure switch, some people have had problems with poor quality new switches.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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rubjonny When i earth this wire, do i drive as normal and expect the light and buzzer NOT to come on? If it does come on then can the cluster be fixed?

Briano1234  o1234 They are original, i will check them over. i did notice that my Handbrake light flickers from time to time, so im guessing its an earth fault?

mark1gls I tried an original one too from a friends car and same issue.

Last edit: by c11rgd


Birmingham

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yes if you earth the black/blue wire the light and buzzer should be disabled over2kish rpm. the light will still come on ignition on and if pressure drops at idle as this is handled by the 0.24/0.3 bar switch on the side of the head with the yellow wire.

if it still comes on when wire is earthed then either the wire is damaged somewhere, the fusebox is at fault, wire from fusebox to clocks, clock plug pin is squished/dirty or cluster is faulty in some way.

there is an earth for the MFA type cluster to the side of the head so that is well worth a check, I'd have thought you'd see more cluster issues than just the oil warning buzzer but electrics can be funny sometimes :lol:

with the clocks it might be damage to the blue pcb foil, or the oil warning pcb clipped inside the speedometer. The foil isnt easy to repair but the oil warnign board can just be swapped for another

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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rubjonny  earthed it to the battery terminal and it never came on. Will earth it to the rocker cover to check the earth there and see if it still comes on.


Briano1234 where can i get a new earthing set?

Birmingham

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Make your own with two off the shelf cables from your auto parts store…..

just get enough extra leads for those spad connectors on the nuts.

Go from battery to frame and frame to engine.
The other grounds you can use 14-16 ga wire and terminal connections.

www.cabby-info.com has the CIS and DIGI grounds.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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