Northampton - Campaign 8V DX Wants to start for Summer!

Howdy folks,


Hope someone can help or put me in the right direction. I have an 1983 Tintop Campaign 8V DX which is refusing to start.


The head has just been rebuilt and with a fresh gasket. I have good compression on all cylinders. Brand new Bosch battery.


We have spark at the plugs and fuel is being delivered through the injectors and spark plugs are wet. Fresh fuel pump relay and tried the upside down relay trick.


I know the fault lies with the timing marks being out, after a friend helped to replace the timing belt with me. The car has never ran for more than a couple of minutes.


I'm just recovering from having Cancer tumour removed last August so my physical health hasn't been great to work on the car.


My little 7 year son - Reuben also has cerebral palsy and cannot walk and takes up most of our time.


I'm desperate to hear to old girl run and my little boy is missing "daddy's broom broom"


Does anyone know of a good decent mobile mechanic in Northampton area who could help get her started? Every mechanic I have tried seems clueless at setting static timing.


Thanks


Muller

have a look at my digifant guide, the basic timing markers are all the same as the ones you need to find and when lined up the car should fire up:
https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-diagnose-and-tune-your-mk2-digifant-gti-8v.124949/

for ignition timing you disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the distributor. then hook up a basic timing light, point it down the hole in the top of the gearbox and twiddle dizzy till the diamond lines up. you can add a couple more degrees of advance if you run it on good quality fuel for that little bit extra broom broom

Hi,

Hope you can help?

Golf MK1 GTI 1983 Campaign 1800 DX Engine.

I have been desperately trying to get my car started for the summer.

I seem to have a developed a very strange electrical fault with my fuel metering head which I had just replaced thinking that I had a stuck piston barrel in the distributor body.

Whilst trying to get my car started yesterday.  The car initially started, warmed up and ran for a minute or two, then cut out.

I tried several attempt to restart her and she refused.

I disconnected the wires from the coil, placed relay 17 upside down in the fuse box where the fuel pump relay lives and removed fuel injector number one and placed away. Just to see if a fuel mist spray would come out through the injector.

No fuel came out, I removed the key from the ignition and a few seconds later I noticed the injector start to spray one small jet, then another jet and started to constantly dribble small amounts of fuel. When I touched the fuel distributor and fuel lines I could feel them vibrating/pulsing, as if they were on

For safety I removed the positive wire from the battery and it still continued to pulse,  Only when removed the negative wire wire and a the fuel distributor stopped.

Any ideas what would cause such a strange fault.  

Hello there! That's an odd one for sure, did it do the same on the old metering head? I'm thinking the fuel return is blocked or pressure regulator is faulty so it can't release the pressure that builds up if the fuel relay is bridged…

There is nothing electric.about the main fuel metering system apart from the pump which should have cut as soon as the ignition was off, or at least when battery terminal removed

Are both fuel pumps running ?

do you have fuel at the metering head ?

Hi,

Yes, I have fuel coming to the metering head at both the supply and the return pipe.

As it's a 1983 Tintop it only has the one fuel pump under the car.

RJ - I've found a spare fuel accumulator / pressure regulator.

However this must be off another  car as it has a slim fuel port at the back. Can I cap this off anyway to make it work?

Thanks

Muller

I think so yes, but it's probably not the accumulator at fault I don't think rather an issue on the return side

definatly not one in the tank mate

accumulator only has  two pipes
one in one out

so has it high pressure at the metering
if it has crack of the 4 pipes at the injectors
remove the bellows on the air flow sensor
grasp the nut on top  of the plate lift it
up the fuel should spray from the unions
if you have fuel pressure