Master Cylinder for 9" break upgrade
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#1602547
(In Topic #218174)
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Hi all. Im looking at doing or should I say my dad is helping me do (he used to be a truck mechanic and I have no clue) the 9" servo upgrade to my 1992 sportline as the breaks are a bit worrying. Question I have is what master cylinder should I use as I want to get away with doing loads of extra piping and having read through the how to guide it suggests you can do away with some or it if you get a 4/6 inlet?? Any advise from somone who has done it please?
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183008815451
Being a later cabby yours should have the brake light switch on pedal so no need for extra pieces under the bonnet.
You may find though that the original steel lines are very hard to manipulate into the new positions for the bigger master cylinder so may be a good time to replace all the brake lines with new copper ones
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
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Settled In
Posted
Old Timer
And 2 on the side for front offside and front nearside
And obviously 2 holes for fluid pot to plug into
Those brake pipes aren't easy to bend though and if they are it normally means they are close to snapping
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Local Hero
If you are doing a swap take care when re-centering and re-attaching the MC to the Booster.
You have to center the mc to the booster, (oil or grease the o-ring on the MC) then take the nuts down equally that is 5-8 spins on the left then 5-8 spins on the right.
Failure to do that can result in the Push-rod on the Booster becoming offset or off centered in the booster, and popping out of the fingers of the holder and that isn't a pretty thing to have happen.
Also you will want to adjust the free-play of the pedal afterwards.
I have driven the 90, 92, and 93 Cabby for years and find the brakes to be sufficient when maintained, the issue that I have seen on all of my Cabriolets are the rubber brake lines needs to be upgraded or changed as the weakened rubbers because of age Balloon when fluid is moving, why the need to change?
Rubber lines from the hard lines to the Calipers on the front and the ones over the axle.
They make a set of Stainless Steel Jacketed lines that do rather nicely, and they make the pedal stiffen really really well.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
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They all start with GOOD Grounds.
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Settled In
Posted
Local Hero
I have taken my 93 and 92 well over 95MPH (yep I live in the Colonies) and they stop pretty well when the cars are maintained. I usually drive the Interstates over here at 70-80,,,,,
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
Unfortunately they will never be brilliant due to the location of the servo
In most cars with the engine off if you pump the brake pedal it will harden up and eventually have no movement.
This wont happen with the mk1's due to the movement / play in the connecting bar from the brake pedal to the servo, you'll probably always be able to push the pedal down around 25% however much you pump the pedal
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Local Hero
WATERNAIR said
Seconded braided lines will make the world of difference even new rubber ones would if the originals are still on after 25yrs
Unfortunately they will never be brilliant due to the location of the servo
In most cars with the engine off if you pump the brake pedal it will harden up and eventually have no movement.
This wont happen with the mk1's due to the movement / play in the connecting bar from the brake pedal to the servo, you'll probably always be able to push the pedal down around 25% however much you pump the pedal
I don't have that issue as I don't have the Rube Goldberg brakes of the UK and RHD.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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