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Fuel pump help

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Hi I have a mk1 gti b reg and it has a intermittent cutting out fault, I am fully restoring the car to its original glory

I thought I would take the old fuel out on taking the pump out I discovered the tank was full of black gunk and the pump is only being held togther buy the wires on the pump, also the filter gauze had fallen off now I have it out I need to put it back in but am not sure how the two parts should connect together can anyone help me from the pictures I have

Thanks in advance


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LOLOLOLOL  Been there done that….

The tank being full of black gunk is probably from Deteriorated Fuel hoses and or the vibration damper that was attaching the Fuel Pump to the Intake port of the sending unit.  It would be better served to try to look around in the tank to find the metal bits of the interconnect and clamps if yours wasn't partially attached.

Originally they had a rubber hose/vibration damper that had a METAL cuff half way between where they mated the two together, and also they used spring clamps. I can remember that on my Green Cabby, I heard the whine driving it home, and stopped and replaced the pump.  The original interconnect was split, the rubber returned to its normally un-vulcanized gooey state….

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What most of us folks did when we replaced a whining pump over here is to remove that original damper and replace it with e10-15 rated 5/16 fuel hose.  I would strongly suggest that you replace the pump and strainer.

Hints… Big Hints, REALLY BIG HINTS.

Going back use fuel type clamps or spring clamps only as they tighten circumferentially instead of elliptically as the screw ones do.

Hint number two, take about 4 foot of string. and tie the new strainer on to the sending unit at the top with a bow.. as this holds the strainer tightly to the pump and you aren't prone to drop it off the pump and into the tank on the install.








When you have the Pump/sender reinstalled you can untie it and gently pull it out of the tank area…  I have also used Fuel Proof Epoxy to "Glue" the strainer to the pump and waited 24 hours to install.

3rd hint, clean the corrosion, off the thing inside the tubes for the senders, as well as the anodized areas, you can spray the uppers with fuel resistive spray.  Clean the mating surfaces well where the sender and o-ring meet, the top of the tank as well, apply Vaseline jelly liberally to the o-ring, and grooves to be well assured that the o-ring will slide as you lock it, and won't pinch or pucker out and leak when the tank is filled.

You may want to take the cover off the sender and clean the wiper arm, and rheostat (potentiometer) to some same difference with Alcohol and a swab.

Everything I never wanted to know about Fuel Sending units is here.  http://www.toplessrabbit.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3212

 

Last edit: by Briano1234


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Fuel pump help

Lovely thanks for that I'll have a go tonight


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You need to make sure the fuel hose from the fuel sender to the fuel pump is the right length, to long and the pick up will be on the bottom of the tank, to short and the pick up will be to high and you may run out of petrol.

There is the sizes etc in the Haynes manual.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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They list that part as a connecting piece.
as

281919133 48mm
or
533919133B
533919133 38mm

Which is 1.5 to 2.0 inches. Just be careful to get e-rated hose that is rated as fuel resistant inside and out.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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