Fuel issue on 1983 1.8 GTi

Having rebuilt my Campaign, I'm gradually getting round to starting it.

Main issue I have on non- start is fuel at injectors or lack of it.

Having cranked it over a few times, there is fuel at all banjo bolts/joints when you loosen them, with the exception of three of the outlets to the injectors - these seem dry or barely weep rather than hiss out under pressure..

There's a healthy hiss from fuel cap when you loosen it so pressure has certainly built up.

I don't have a fuel pressure tester so don't know what the pressure is.

Just wondered if there was something "daft"

Thanks in advance.

adolf said

Having rebuilt my Campaign, I'm gradually getting round to starting it.

Main issue I have on non- start is fuel at injectors or lack of it.

Having cranked it over a few times, there is fuel at all banjo bolts/joints when you loosen them, with the exception of three of the outlets to the injectors - these seem dry or barely weep rather than hiss out under pressure..

There's a healthy hiss from fuel cap when you loosen it so pressure has certainly built up.

I don't have a fuel pressure tester so don't know what the pressure is.

Just wondered if there was something "daft"

Thanks in advance.

Hard work getting air from fuel lines mate been down that route

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nicci21paul said

adolf said

Having rebuilt my Campaign, I'm gradually getting round to starting it.

Main issue I have on non- start is fuel at injectors or lack of it.

Having cranked it over a few times, there is fuel at all banjo bolts/joints when you loosen them, with the exception of three of the outlets to the injectors - these seem dry or barely weep rather than hiss out under pressure..

There's a healthy hiss from fuel cap when you loosen it so pressure has certainly built up.

I don't have a fuel pressure tester so don't know what the pressure is.

Just wondered if there was something "daft"

Thanks in advance.

Hard work getting air from fuel lines mate been down that route

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If you want to contact me 07739608140

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Try taking the injectors lines off and put one end on water and blow down the other side, mine collapsed in the centre and fuel only got to one injector until I tried this and realized they had a blockage inside.

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I've got a compressor so I'll get an airline down the braded fuel lines - I've undone the injectors from the pipework too so I'll have check there's no blockage along the lines. However I do note there is only a bit of fuel seeping from the metering unit on one injector line and totally dry on another so the air block could be before the injector lines. 🤔

I think it's a bleed/air in line problem as there was air hissing out of the return to tank banjo when I loosened it off. I've a full spare metering unit and fuel lines so could try that if all else fails.

When I restored my GTI I assumed it had to be bled having been used to Diesel injection on tractors and Landrovers.

I stuck a wire in the two big fuel pump relay connectors so the pump ran and lifted the meter head plate until petrol was coming out of the injectors.

Thanks for the help guides.

I've done as suggested and lifted air plate and now have fuel coming out of injectors. Would this mean with the air plate down it would still provide fuel to the injectors? I haven't put the rubber boot yet so would need to reassemble it first.

I've a spark at all 4 plugs - assuming it's firing in right order. Battery gone a bit weak now so put it on charge.

When cranking and runnning the airplate won't be down it will be lifted up with the air being drawn in by the engine

I had a similar issue with mine after I fully stripped and rebuilt the metering head and air plate thingy majig. I read something somewhere about getting an initial mixture setting. This involved removing the lines from the metering head, jumping the fuel relay (so pump running) and turning the mixture screw until fuel just starts to come up through the metering head (do it slowly!) then back it off 1/4 turn. This solved my issue - once I had it running I had the mixture properly checked. Once you've done that, iit is also worth checking the fuel volume for each injector is balanced. If you have a brown haynes it tells you how to do that - it's a comparative volume check as opposed to a specific amount. I'll find a link to a YT video as well.

Here's the YT link - Mk2 Golf K-Jet Injector Testing - YouTube
It's a 16v, but still CIS so it is valid.

Also check my signature for a 'how-to' for a fuel pressure test guage.  

Great thanks for that info 

Something to try this weekend.

One big problem I've seem to have encountered is the very slow turning over of the engine even with what I thought was a good battery - I think this is part of my problem as the engine is not creating enough "suk"

Not sure why this could be be - I've checked the tightness of the connections and earths - May I've missed something 🤷🏼‍♂️

I had a good couple of backfires earlier when I tried it which i guess was a good  sign of some activity in the engine.

had similar slow cranking after trying to start
with no fuel in the lines starter burnt out fitted
1.6d starter backfire is good you have fuel and
spark therefore timing plug leads wrong perhaps
worth checking simple errors usually over looked

Thinking I'm going to have to admit defeat.

Tried a known good battery and swapped starter motor but yet still slow turning over - too slow in my opinion to throw the thing sufficiently to start up. Not even trying to catch yet we've checked for spark and fuel - both present 🤷🏼‍♂️

Engine turns over easy enough by hand with socket on crank bolt so fairly free. Not even backfiring now.

Rechecked all timing marks & HT lead orders - tried another rotar arm, dizzi cap 

I'll take it to a garage near here and see if they can sort it as I've spent enough time and frustration with it now.

Unless there's something I've missed - please tell 😄

think logically it is a basic engine icie  do not give it
up mate

PLEASE STOP AND CHECK YOUR BATTERY CABLES NOW

Check your Battery Cables, Positive to the Starter, and Battery-to-Frame-to-Engine for voltage drop.  I have also heard of the Ignition switch as causing this as well.

If you place a Heat Soak Relay (www.cabby-info.com) yes I know it is for autos, but work wonderful for the manual starters as it shortens the run of the current, and improves your ignition switch life.

Yea I know but pulling what little hair I have out 😄

Basically :

Got a spark and checked timing points and all look good
Got fuel squirting out of injectors when you lift meter plate up.

Problems :

Slowish to turn over. 
Plugs dry when I take them out so is fuel not being delivered into the cylinder when cranking ? Is this because it's cranking too slow to create the fuel pressure ?

Not even trying to catch, no backfires 

"Fed up to "top attic" as we say in Yorkshire !

I can get a mobile mechanic or get it trailered to the garage but I know it's defeatist but feel as though I'm wasting my time and it's been 5 years since it was last on road.

adolf said

Yea I know but pulling what little hair I have out

Basically :

Got a spark and checked timing points and all look good
Got fuel squirting out of injectors when you lift meter plate up.

Problems :

Slowish to turn over. 
Plugs dry when I take them out so is fuel not being delivered into the cylinder when cranking ? Is this because it's cranking too slow to create the fuel pressure ?

Not even trying to catch, no backfires 

"Fed up to "top attic" as we say in Yorkshire !

I can get a mobile mechanic or get it trailered to the garage but I know it's defeatist but feel as though I'm wasting my time and it's been 5 years since it was last on road.

Sent you a contact number mate

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Have you tried putting taking the duct work off the throttle body, open the throttle, spray some carb cleaner or EZ Start in and then trying to turn it over? If you have spark then it should fire, albeit briefly.
Slow cranking sounds like a poorly starter motor to me - provided you've got decent power and earth to it as Briano has mentioned.

I've checked battery leads and earths and seem
all tight and not broken/frayed. Still sluggish turning over and now other spare starter motor is clicking now so that's probably not boding well - battery still strong though.

Somewhere back of my mind 🤔🤔 - my earth for engine goes to the support bracket of gearbox (under air box) - did I read somewhere this should be on one of the bottom gearbox bolts to engine ? Would it matter?

I've got another starter motor on order. If that makes no different then I am at a loss (for an amateur)

I can only keep going back of the basics. 

To eliminate earthing isues use a jump lead to connect the battery earth post direct to a clean metal part of the engine block