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Fuel filler neck

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Hi all, am in need for a filler neck for a golf gti cabriolet 1989. Where is the best place to get 1 at a decent price. Got few other jobs to do so need a cheap / decent price. Thanks in advance.

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Also I checked vw heritage and there are 2 types, so which 1 is it that would suit my car.

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Cabriolet filler necks are different from the cheaper tin top filler necks, have a look at my project thread as 1/2 down on page 1 is what I did to a tin top filler neck, if you can find someone who can cut and weld the end back on, cost me about £35 for a new filler neck the lots of paint on top of that.

Cheaper than buying a cabriolet filler neck.

View topic: My Daily drive 1988 Gti cabriolet - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club


Looked on eBay and tin top filler necks have gone up, I paid £25 for mine.
Buy a new rubber hose which joins the filler neck to the tank as they go hard over time and become a nightmare to fit, also get 2 New jubilee clips as you might as well fit new ones while it’s apart.

Plenty of paint/protection on the new filler will help a lot as the finish it comes with is only to stop it rusting while in storage, don’t use Hammerite paint as it’s to hard and chips off way to easy, I used it on my old white filler neck you can see in my thread and even though I cleaned it regularly and waxoyl the wheel arch every couple of years the filler neck only lasted about 8 years but my car is a daily drive…

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Hi mark1gls, you mentioned you had to bend it a little where abouts on the pipe was it that you bent it and also was it a flush fit to the body as i have read that some pipes were sitting at a slight angle and fuel cap stuck out at bottom. Thanks for info above.

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With the tintop filler neck I did not bend the pipe, I was told you could just bend it at the tank end then cut some off the tank end and it will fit.
I tried bending it after heating it up with a blow torch but could not do it and I felt the pipe would crush and be distorted once bent and not make a good seal with the rubber hose.
In the end I took both filler necks (old and new) to someone who had to cut a section out of the pipe and weld the end back on to get the correct angle.

Pictures etc is in my build thread I posted the link to in my last post.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Oh ok thanks. I understand want you mean.

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So whilst looking for the fuel filler neck, i thoght i might as well look into the tank and see if there is any rust / crud inside so took the sender unit off and there was quite a lot of rust inside. So started to take the tank of but as mine is 1989, gti cabriolet the tank is secured with 5 bolts. Never heard of any to have 5 bolts, heard of 2 straps holding the tank in place. So now is this going to be the same procedure for taking the tank of and which is the best way to clean the tank out.

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See if there is a radiator repair place, that can clean it out, then repair any leaks they find.  


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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hi i will get a look over the weekend
i have a couple i will see what they are
like mate

Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible

1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF

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Get a strong magnet and go fishing in the fuel tank to get as much as you can out, keep cleaning off the magnet and once you got most of it out drop the magnet in the fuel tank but away from the fuel level sender in case the float bar sticks to the magnet then the magnet will attract and bits of metal floating about while driving.

I've seen people make a sort of pump to suck the bits out before as well.

The two different ways above you won’t need to remove the fuel tank as you will access it via the sender hole.

Search online for more info etc…

To remove the fuel tank you need to remove the rear beam but be very very carful with the 4 studs and bolts which hold the beam onto the car because if you snap these studs off you need to cut and weld in new studs.
Start by cleaning the threads of the studs and soaking them in Plusgas or similar penetration oil over the next few days(WD40 is rubbish so avoid it)

Best to buy a new tank, they are £125 ish new if going though hassle of removing the old one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-FUEL-TANK-SEAL-VW-GOLF-MK-1-CONVERTIBLE-1-6-1-8-82-93/382567689444?fits=Model%3AGolf+Cabriolet&hash=item5912cface4:g:CigAAOSw0oBZw-cB


Found some info about sucking the tank out.  Early 40l fuel tank are slightly different to later 55l tanks like yours as we don’t have a built in swirl pot etc.

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=how-to_2/fuel-tank-cleaning_3

BE VERY CAREFULLY with fuel vapour as you don’t want it all to go up in flames and make sure when working on or in the fuel tank you have plenty of ventilation in and around the car. 

Last edit: by mark1gls


1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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You don't have to remove the axle but you do have to lower it away.

Use a electric or air impact on the nuts for the studs, as they usually won't torque shear the bolts that a Breaker bar or Ratchet will.

Then after Clean the threads well and use never-seize.

Be mindful of the Rear Brake lines (rubber) as it wouldn't hurt to have replacements on hand as they are probably cracked and chafed.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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