Couple of Quick Q's re: dipstick and coolant sensor

Going to be doing a few things today and have a couple of random questions,

First one, I have this dipstick. Will this be giving an accurate reading as it sits or do I need to buy a new one?




Second is I seem to have a coolant leak around the coolant temperature sensor. Is there a seal or anything or sealant I need to use?



Thanks

you nehttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mk1-Mk2-golf-dipstick-guide-tube/252803430557?hash=item3adc42389d:g:SQEAAOSw4CFYwAGs&frcectupt=trueed a new plastic guide for the dipstick

 and a fan switch washer but not sure if available separately from the switch

https://www.vwheritage.com/191959481c-radiator-3-pin-fan-switch-inc-seal-95-84102-91c-vw-spare

Will I need a different dipstick also or will the original work with the guide? Was there a guide originally?

I'll get a new fan switch.

Going to replace all the coolant hoses at the same time as more leaks are becoming visible the more I look.

IS there a way to get coolant hoses to seal properly or do they just need replacing over time? I've got several small leaks from the end of hoses and have done the jubilees up as much as possible.

I  think the cause of my leaks may be the pitting on this part. I have wired wheeled them in these pictures but they still show pitting:





Im going to try and smooth them down with some sandpaper and hope this gets a better seal.

If not, do I replace the pipes or this part with the pitting?

If you have deep pitting, then you can clean the area, and use JB-Weld Full Strength to fill in the pits sand smooth.  

I prefer the Springy Clips for my Radiator, and I use a fuel hose clamp on the over flow.  The issue with the Screw type clamp is that on smaller diameters it seals in a oblong and not a true round.  I have seen the screw clamps with the fingers under the clamp not running flush with the clamp as well which causes the hose to pucker.

Cheers, Im thinking that was another issue. They're good jubilees but as you say, they start to twist. I was looking at getting some of these to replace them:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIKALOR-32-35MM-HEAVY-DUTY-COOLANT-WATER-HOSE-CLAMP-CLIP-MLR-KX/122642862910?epid=1843855127&hash=item1c8e15933e:g:cSMAAOSwc49Y7gaC

Those are better than the Screw type.

strange as it may seem why did
other car manufacters use jubilee
clips as opossed to spring steel type

not to sure but the normal
pressure should be 1 bar if the engine is forcing water
from hose joints it is exceeding
1 .5 bar

nicci21paul said

not to sure but the normal
pressure should be 1 bar if the engine is forcing water
from hose joints it is exceeding
1 .5 bar

14.5psi is normal for the cooling system, so you may want to flush and back flush the system, if the t-stat is old you may want to replace that as well.

The Screw-type originally in the late 60's was a step up to the older spring type, and everybody raved on them.

The issue is that if your car is hot, then they squeeze ok, but when the car cools they need to be re-tightened to eliminate cold seal gap,  the bottom of the screw part is supposed to lay roundish to the clamp and Circularly Hold the hose but I have found that most aren't manufactured and the bottom is elliptical and not curved for the hose so the hose will not seal flat to the flange.  Specially on smaller diameters.  The VW re-designed the Spring clamps to be better and they work far superior to the screw type.

Yes they can be the dickens to get to as if the POS (previous owners serviceman) placed them on from the bottom or the top…But they seal when hot and seal when colder.  I actually prefer them yep stupid as that seems.  

The screw ones can wear a flat area in the flange and leak when you reposition them, or they can cut the hose.

You clean all the garbage off the flange, and polish it, fill in the deep pits with "JB-Weld Full Strength" then allow that to cure for 24 hours, and sand smooth…That shoudl last a good while, I also spread a thin coat of Never-seize on the inside of the hose to prevent it from "Sticking" to the flange.  Always cut the hose off of plastic bits, and I have had the Screw type break plastic hose connections on older radiators and plastic flanges…

so 14.5 psi is 1 bar which allows
a pressurised system to boil at
113-120 centigrade is that correct
i am not 100 percent sure advice
appreciated

getting back to the original post
water dripping from various hose
connections where are they actually
leaking from one or various spot on the
engine or different places

If you have a way to air pressurize your cooling system, then you take it to 14.5 psi (a radiator cap that you can pressurize).  If you have a leak int he cooling system as in a bad gasket or what ever, it should drip.  A running car will never usually go above 14.5 psi as the radiator caps or Expansion caps are usually rated at that.

I've bought a load of hoses and clamps now. Have also rubbed down to remove most of the pitting. Some is really bad so may have to use some liquid metal on it.

As for the dipstick, is it not reading correct without the guide suggested or do I need a different dipstick with the guide? It's reading full on the dipstick but sure I've not put a lot in.

What year is your car?
Early cars upto 1984ish had that type of dipstick.
looks like someone has wrapped tape around it so remove the tape.

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=classifieds%2Fparts-wanted_2%2Fmk1-golf-gti-oil
 

Mines an 85. The plastic doesn't have tape. It's a little cracked but just wondering if there should be a plastic guide like suggested with this type of dipstick

Yes you still need the orange plastic guide with that type of dip stick.

Here’s mine on a 1984 engine.



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Overpresssure is highly unlikely unless you have a failed compression seal and a failed expansion cap! Be careful about pressuring the coolant system if you don't know exactly what you are doing because you can cause considerable damage.

The plastic guides always break down over time   and you do need them.
Have you just given the engine an oil change?  If you have then you should know exactly how much went back, and if you haven't do one anyway, she will thank you for it  
Then when you have the new guide in place you will know for sure.

An oil level reading without a fitted guide is at least 1.5 litres to little !