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Bleeding brakes

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Hi guys. Bit embarrassing but has anyone got a link to bleeding the brakes on my 1990 gti cabby? Preferably one that doesnt involve special tools if possible.
Have been let down by a so called friend and need to use the car at the weekend.

Many thanks.

1990 Golf GTI cabrio 1.8i.  DX Engine

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I have A HAYNES worth its weight in gold
the bleeding is like most cars but you will need a helper to press the pedal if your doing it old skool

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Start at the rear drivers side, then rear passengers, then front drives then front passengers,  (Work towards the master cylinder).

Top up brake fluid, get someone in the car, get a bit of tube if possible to put on the end of the bleed nipple so brake fluid does not dribble all over the back plate etc and you can see if there is any air and colour of the brake fluid so you know when it comes through nice and clean.

Open up the bleed nipple a turn or so and get the person in the car to slowly press the brake pedal to the floor, (brake fluid should come out) once the pedal on the floor get them to keep it down and close/do up the bleed nipple, get them to take the foot of the pedal so it's back up. Repeat a few times till brake fluid is clear and clean and no air bubbles in it. Get the person in the car to press the pedal a few times once finished to check the pedal is nice and firm.

Move on to next wheel cylinder/calipers and repeat.
Keep an eye on the brake fluid level as you don't want it to go to the minimum or you will get air in the brakes and start again.

When putting the tube on the nipple, put the ring end of a ring spanner on 1st then the tube. Don't use the open end of a spanner or you may round the nipple off, be carful not shear off the bleed nipple so a soaking in Plusgas or similar will help free things up.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Yep doing it old skool. Many thanks mark1gls as the way you have explained it is just the ticket.
Have done loads on this car on my own but brakes make me a bit nervous so have avoided them so far.
Have changed the shockers and springs for a coilover kit, tidied up the arches, new caliper slider kit, drums and calipers cleaned up so pretty chuffed with this part of the motor.
Cheers chaps🍺 20170929_132125.jpg IMG_20170914_121923.jpg 20170925_151930.jpg 20171003_091748.jpg 20171004_120726.jpg

1990 Golf GTI cabrio 1.8i.  DX Engine

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Looking at the finish of your drums etc it's worth putting a pipe on the bleed nipple as brake fluid is like paint stripper and will remove your paint no problem.

I do use a 1 man bleed kit but still get someone to press the brake pedal while opening and closing the nipple as I don't trust the little 1 way valve fitted to the kit but the pipe is handy to keep the fluid away from my paint and I stick the other end in a plastic bottle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ONE-MAN-BRAKE-BLEED-KIT-UNIVERSAL-SINGLE-PERSON-BRAKE-BLEEDER-CARS-/152067961026?hash=item2367f4f0c2:g:kvEAAOSwv9hW6s-7


Once finished press the pedal hard several times and make sure there is no leaks etc.
It can take a lot of bleeding if you have the whole brake system apart and sometimes you do need a pressure bleeder or need to bleed at the master cylinder 1st.

I guess your car is a cabriolet with 2 big cylinders fitted underneath the master cylinder?
 

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Not sure on that one mate. Will check that one tomorrow. Any ideas on which brake fluid to use??

Cheers.

1990 Golf GTI cabrio 1.8i.  DX Engine

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Dot 4 is what you want.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/auxiliary-fluids/brake-fluid/?524770271&0&cc5_179

Don't use dot 5

If you can see the picture you can see the regulator fitted the the rear brake lines underneath the master cylinder.

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=technical%2Frunning-gear_2%2Frear-brake-regulator

Early cars have a regulator fitted to the rear beam so you need to leave it on the ground to bleed the brakes as it affects the pressure, later cars with regulators fitted in the brake lines it makes no difference if the rear wheels are off the car and it's in the air as it makes it a lot easier to bleed the brakes.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Yep, looks like the regulators are below the mc which is good as the backs sitting on axle stands.
Got my bleed kit and dot 4 and the missus ( unfortunately) so I'll be cracking on tomorrow.
Thanks again.

1990 Golf GTI cabrio 1.8i.  DX Engine

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Tomorrow you will be shouting at your other half " Foot on!……   Foot off!…."

If she is having difficulty pushing the brake pedal to the floor (press slowly) then you need to open up the bleed nipple a little bit more…

Let us know how you get on.  :thumbs:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Thanks buddy, will do. Always knew there would be a use for her one day.😂

1990 Golf GTI cabrio 1.8i.  DX Engine

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the operative operation is have her PUMP THE pedal 3 times, then hold.

Open the bleeder and as the pedal sinks tell her to let it sink, and hold to the floor, once it is down close the bleeder.. pump 3 times and hold….

left front right rear
right front left rear

start at the back.

Things to consider for future.
Google DIY power brake bleeder.

here is mine, master cylinder cap, rubber hose, barbed fitting Valve Stem, 3 dollar pump sprayer.  

Place the res cap on, pump the sprayer to 14 psi.
lock it on.

You will need a collection jar.  Metal lid pasta sauce jar
5 foot of vinyl hose (fits over the bleeder port).
cut it 3 foot, and 2 foot.

Drill 2 holes in top.
use jb-weld to seal the hose to the lid. One hose goes to 1/4 inch above the jar bottom, the other 1 inch below the cap.  JB-weld both sides…..





Fill the jar with clean brake fluid to cover the bottom hose about 1/2 inch (prevents air suck)

Attach the 3 foot end to the bleeder port.

Crack the port the power bleeder will push fluid and air…

If you go with a Mighty-Vac, the collection I made jar is better as it holds more, but the caveat is that you have to teflon tape the bleeders, which in it's self isn't a bad idea to do any way… Tape the hole port threads to end, then pierce the bleeder hole with a nail or pin.

Lastly you can buy speedy bleeders they are spring loaded and you place a collection pipe on the end
Crack the valve and leave it open then pump the brakes a few times close the bleeder, remove the hose.  Top off the res and do the next one in order….



All the above make it a one person job, the cheapest is the home made power bleeder.  I have inter changeable brake caps to fit all my cars.  

But i have trained all my kids how to do it manually…… as in pump 3 times then hold…. I also ask between the pumps if the pedal is getting stiffer.





What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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I bought a pressure bleed kit from screwfix for 20 quid to do mine after the foot down foot up.

My pedal still travels before it gets firm but I'm used to new cars so might just be how they are.
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