warm up regulator
Posted
#1096798
(In Topic #131255)
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warm up regulator
Hi all, i am tring to test the function of my warm up regulator > when the car has not been started ie "cold" i get a meter reading of 24.6 ohms does this sound ok ? the reason for checking this is because my mk1 golf gti 1.8 does'nt like being reved when it's cold its fine when warm ! I have checked the supply to it and get a reading of 11.86 volts . THanks all P.s am i on the right path
Posted
MOTY 2013
yep you're on the right track, and so far the tests are good. however to go any further you're going to have to get some k-jet fuel pressure test gauges
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Hi there,
I had similar issue with cold start. Was blocked mesh. Carb cleaning no point,
Basically disassemble it and get the metals ultrasonic cleaned. You will be amazed with results. It will blast dirt out that the naked eye cannot see. You can check mesh by shining torch on through inside through the small hole.
If required buy WUR service kit ebay and assemble.
The WUR if functioning correctly reduces system pressure on cold start so the sensor plate is lighter to lift giving right mixture. You can also rev normally on cold start.
Good luck
I had similar issue with cold start. Was blocked mesh. Carb cleaning no point,
Basically disassemble it and get the metals ultrasonic cleaned. You will be amazed with results. It will blast dirt out that the naked eye cannot see. You can check mesh by shining torch on through inside through the small hole.
If required buy WUR service kit ebay and assemble.
The WUR if functioning correctly reduces system pressure on cold start so the sensor plate is lighter to lift giving right mixture. You can also rev normally on cold start.
Good luck
Posted
Settled In
BRINZ said
Hi there,
I had similar issue with cold start. Was blocked mesh. Carb cleaning no point,
Basically disassemble it and get the metals ultrasonic cleaned. You will be amazed with results. It will blast dirt out that the naked eye cannot see. You can check mesh by shining torch on through inside through the small hole.
If required buy WUR service kit ebay and assemble.
The WUR if functioning correctly reduces system pressure on cold start so the sensor plate is lighter to lift giving right mixture. You can also rev normally on cold start.
Good luck
I have same issues and its really doing my head in
it been stripped and cleaned but I have bad cold start problems still
I'm out of ideas with it
Posted
Settled In
Check to see if the butterfly flap (air intake) and the throttle body inlet flap freely move. If stiff, this can cause issues. Spray carb cleaner to loosen it up.
Get someone to crank the engine and try to move the butterfly up slightly by hand to see if it makes a difference. If it does, this may be the issue.
The only way you can test the fuel system problem is using a pressure gauge and connect to fuel distributor. You should have low pressure at start up (around 1bar) and the pressure should increase while engine warms up to around 5 bar. Exact figures you can find on Haynes manual.
Other tests would be ignition cables, plugs, timing, distributor setting etc.
But if it runs fine during warm up, then the issue is to do with fuel.
Also inspect your fuel tank to check for rust particles which may cause blockage. You replace your fuel filter?
I actually ended up disassembling the fuel distributor and WUR and assembled with new gasket kits purchased from eBay. The gasket kits are expensive but worth ruling out as the rubber diaphragms can wear over time.
Do the pressure test first before spending any money. That's one mistake I made. I started spending, couldn't find issue, then did pressure test and found out it was the WUR. Ultrasonic cleaning is the only way as carb cleaner doesn't work.
Get someone to crank the engine and try to move the butterfly up slightly by hand to see if it makes a difference. If it does, this may be the issue.
The only way you can test the fuel system problem is using a pressure gauge and connect to fuel distributor. You should have low pressure at start up (around 1bar) and the pressure should increase while engine warms up to around 5 bar. Exact figures you can find on Haynes manual.
Other tests would be ignition cables, plugs, timing, distributor setting etc.
But if it runs fine during warm up, then the issue is to do with fuel.
Also inspect your fuel tank to check for rust particles which may cause blockage. You replace your fuel filter?
I actually ended up disassembling the fuel distributor and WUR and assembled with new gasket kits purchased from eBay. The gasket kits are expensive but worth ruling out as the rubber diaphragms can wear over time.
Do the pressure test first before spending any money. That's one mistake I made. I started spending, couldn't find issue, then did pressure test and found out it was the WUR. Ultrasonic cleaning is the only way as carb cleaner doesn't work.
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