Fuel tank removal..... FINISHED!!!!

Hello,

I've consulted the haynes manual and it seems fairly straight forward, just a few questions though.

1. How to support the car? At the mo the axle stands are on the axle, funnily enough, but as i have to drop the axle, where else can i support the car??

2. Will i have to bleed the brakes if i disconnect the brake lines? Also how should i prevent the brake fluid going everywhere??

Cheers for any advice you can offer,

Dave

Use axle stands on the sills, in between, use a small block of wood with a slot cut for the sill bottom edge, so that the weight is taken on the main sill, not the lip.

You can get the fuel tank in and out without disconnecting the brake lines, its a bit of a wriggle though. (You need to remove the exhaust system though). If you do disconnect the brake lines, you'll definitely need to bleed the brakes. Not that much brake fluid would come out (unless you push the brake pedal of course). If you want to keep the work area neat and tidy, you could tape over the exposed pipes with duct tape, or something. Or you could cut the flexi lines, and clamp the half left on the car.

Quick reply, cheers!!

Yes i see what you mean, just further on from where the axle's mounting point is seems to be the best place, i'll give it a go and see what happens!!

Cheers again,

Dave

1st time round, I took the whole axle off and its still a wriggle because the lip around the tank is only just wide enough to pass past the gap for the tank. When I had to replace it again, it was so much less hassle to leave the axle on. You save from disconnecting the struts, handbrake cables and brake lines. I have pics of the axle coming off, if it helps. Oh, and don't forget to disconnect the brake pressure regulator spring!

while you are working in that area check condition of axle/ chassis mounting point and above fuel pump. if is good then treat it with loads of bodyseal/ wax-oil to prevent any future headaches.

yeah i'll give it a good going over with undersile while i'm there, yes the picks may help if thats ok paul?

Cheers,

Dave

The second pic gives a good idea of how it would look if you left the axle connected (but unbolted) to do the job. The fuel tank is light enough not to need a jack or whatever.

Sweet, cheers paul, looks fairly straight forward, fingers crossed the axle bolts come off cleanly, i'll have go either today or tomorrow and i'll you know how a get on!!

Thanks,

Dave

oh dear, started yesterday and its problem after problem, i've dropped the axle, cut off a few lines and clips which had completly rusted, the problem now is that i can't get the middle section of the exhaust off, it won't come away fromk the manifold, any suggestions??

Cheers,

Dave

If the exhaust is that difficult, you might as well undo the handbrake cables and brake lines. You can then move the rear beam out of the way and get the tank off without having to touch the exhaust.

Cheers

The centre section should be a push-fit over the manifold, but it's probably rusted solid. Try tapping it with a hammer to see if you can loosen it, and also try twisting the centre section around the manifold to loosen it that way.

Good on you for having a go at it yourself btw :y:

Rich

If you include the manifold, there's 4 parts to the exhaust:

Manifold
Downpipe
'middle' or 'rear' section
Back box

You need to remove the middle and back box. I forgot how much of a pain doing the exhaust yourself was, on a Mk1! I've done it a few times now, it is difficult and requires a good grip + a bit of strength. My only tips would be, to get the car as high up as possible so you can get good leverage on the exhaust; and possibly, you could chisel/hammer the 'sleeve' section that joins the middle with the downpipe, and use WD40 here. If the exhaust is really stuck on, an exhaust fitting place would simply cut it off and renew.

Hello again,

Yes i've tried everything to try and get the middle section off from the manifold but it's just not budging, so i've given up on that to save breaking anything!! instead i think i'll remove the brake lines and hand brake lines so that i can drop the axle lower leaving the exhaust on (theres only one brake line to remove actually), what are the chances of them being removed cleanly? are they likely to brake?

Thanks again,

Dave

btw cheers mcscrew, i think it's either be willing to diy or have a big piggy bank with a classic car!!

penny said

Hello again,

Yes i've tried everything to try and get the middle section off from the manifold but it's just not budging, so i've given up on that to save breaking anything!! instead i think i'll remove the brake lines and hand brake lines so that i can drop the axle lower leaving the exhaust on (theres only one brake line to remove actually), what are the chances of them being removed cleanly? are they likely to brake?

Thanks again,

Dave

btw cheers mcscrew, i think it's either be willing to diy or have a big piggy bank with a classic car!!

I'd say the brake lines are more likely to break, than the exhaust. But having said that, they are probably cheaper to replace. Its up to you. I'd cut the exhaust off, if it stuck on, because even if it has not holed, it doesn't sound like it has much life left. And it will avoid having to take brake pipes off, bleed the brakes, etc.

I'll tell you what, i was very tempted to do that as it won't be long before a new manifold is need, would i need a new centre section too?? i suppose it depends where i cut it, mmmmmmmm super sprint manifold, expensive option though and it wouldn't hurt renewing the brake lines and bleeding them, decisions decisions, i'll make my mind up and have a go next weekend,

Thanks,

Dave

Ok good luck with it, you've discovered half the fun of working on a 25 year old car!

hi i've jus done this on my cab and i also couldnt get exhaust of the manifold but found disconecting break lines(which leaked everywhere?) the axle drops down enough to wriggle it out hardest part of the whole job putting breather pipes back on

right, i've warmed to the idea of replacing the manifold, ashley 4-2-1 wahey!! For two reasons, (a) i think it's the simpler job and (b) i'd like to fix it in time for the berks meet and before the insurance runs out and it gets tucked away for winter!! Only prob is, how do i replace the manifold? Will i have to take the inlet manifold off? the haynes manual doesn't go through this at all!!

Cheers,

Dave

Have you researched how much Ashley manifolds cost? I have, its not cheap! Also, you'd need to replace the system, to make it worthwhile. Mind you, if your exhaust is needing replacement anyway, then this is a good time to do it.

I found best prices are on Rally Design's website.

Not done it myself, but apparently people say its easier to remove the inlet manifold first, to gain access to the exhaust manifold; then replace the inlet manifold afterwards.

wow thats ?45 cheaper than anywhere i looked, thanks, well its just the manifold that really needs to be replaced sooner or later, the rest of the exhaust system is fine really, no decisions are ever easy when mk1's are concerned are they?!