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1.1 to ABF wiring

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Tci

Hi I am converting my 1.1 golf to Abf, I have been doing a lot of reading through threads trying to get my head around the wiring.
I have striped down most of the abf loom of the things I won't need to use, i know I will need a fuel pump relay and a ecu relay wired in.

Do I need to get hold of the tci wiring from a gti?
As the 1.1 does not have it. It is a 1983 with the later blade type fusebox

cheers Tom

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yes get the tci unit and loom from a mk1 or mk2 golf. you want the coil from a mk2 golf as you need the later pin type connection for the spark plug leads.

for fuel pump use the factory pump relay socket, splice the wire from the abf loom g1/3 to d/13 to trigger it, then add a large pin to E/14 for the fuel pump. put 2 wires to the pin, the 2nd wire put a male spade on it and use this to power the fuel injectors and lambda probe power wire just like a factory mk1/2 installation would.

you'll have to change the coil power wire on your 1.1 loom as well as it'll be a resistance type and you need a proper 12v feed.

try to get another ce1 loom for spares if you dont ahve a pro crimp tool./ if you do you can buy ce1 pins new :)

View topic: DX to ABF conversion wiring - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?249714

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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rubjonny said

yes get the tci unit and loom from a mk1 or mk2 golf. you want the coil from a mk2 golf as you need the later pin type connection for the spark plug leads.

for fuel pump use the factory pump relay socket, splice the wire from the abf loom g1/3 to d/13 to trigger it, then add a large pin to E/14 for the fuel pump. put 2 wires to the pin, the 2nd wire put a male spade on it and use this to power the fuel injectors and lambda probe power wire just like a factory mk1/2 installation would.

you'll have to change the coil power wire on your 1.1 loom as well as it'll be a resistance type and you need a proper 12v feed.

try to get another ce1 loom for spares if you dont ahve a pro crimp tool./ if you do you can buy ce1 pins new :)

Forum home - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club
page=topicview&id=modifications-and_2%2Fdx-to-abf-conversion

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?249714


Thanks for the reply Jon.

Those are the links I have been following. Very helpfull thanks.
I went and got a tci unit and a mk2 coil and wired that in, I haven't changed the coil wire off the 1.1 loom tho.
Also I have wired in an extra relay on top of the fuse box for the fuel pump relay, as I didn't know how it was done from factory..
Same for ecu

Started it up over the weekend and it fired up and run.
Should I change the 1.1 coil wire over? And how would I do that?
I will change the fuel pump over now you told me which way to do it. My mate has a pro crimp tool so where is the best place to get the pins from?

Thanks Tom

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if it had points ignition before you need to remove the old wire from the fusebox and fit a replacement, if the wire is purple/white then its resistor wire and needs binned. trace it right back to the fusebox! if you're lucky it may just have an inline balast resistor, this can just be cut off and a fresh spade crimped to the ign live. basically you need to see full 12v at the coil with ign on.  as i say the coil needs replacing for post 84 mk2 golf with the 'pin in the hole' lead fitment. the mk1 are different lead fitment plus if yours was on points its wrong spec anyway. mk3 coil uis no good and just wants chucking in the bin as part of the mk2 tci conversion

for the pins:
View topic: Terminal kits? - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

you might find d/13 has a pin in it already, if so you can splice to it. removing the pin without damaging the plug is tricky you need a pro tool for that job.

for the ign live to coil there are 2 pins it could be, if its smaller size just snip it back and leave it, fit your coil live to D/23 which is a large size terminal.

if its in the large terminal socket already those ones at least are easy to remove they have 2 locking tabs that you can poke in with a thin screwdriver or pick. the small ones have 3 tiny tabs which are tight in the hole so you need a round terminal tool to get them out

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rubjonny said

if it had points ignition before you need to remove the old wire from the fusebox and fit a replacement, if the wire is purple/white then its resistor wire and needs binned. trace it right back to the fusebox! if you're lucky it may just have an inline balast resistor, this can just be cut off and a fresh spade crimped to the ign live. basically you need to see full 12v at the coil with ign on.  as i say the coil needs replacing for post 84 mk2 golf with the 'pin in the hole' lead fitment. the mk1 are different lead fitment plus if yours was on points its wrong spec anyway. mk3 coil uis no good and just wants chucking in the bin as part of the mk2 tci conversion

for the pins:
View topic: Terminal kits? - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

you might find d/13 has a pin in it already, if so you can splice to it. removing the pin without damaging the plug is tricky you need a pro tool for that job.

for the ign live to coil there are 2 pins it could be, if its smaller size just snip it back and leave it, fit your coil live to D/23 which is a large size terminal.

if its in the large terminal socket already those ones at least are easy to remove they have 2 locking tabs that you can poke in with a thin screwdriver or pick. the small ones have 3 tiny tabs which are tight in the hole so you need a round terminal tool to get them out

 
Thanks again Jon I have put in a new coil wire to d23 I had an old loom so I used a pin from that.
So I wired it all back up and started the car turned over a couple of times and started.

All good so left it run for a few minutes and turned it off, and left it for a min or two went to start it again and nothing.
It was like the battery was dead tried to turn over but couldn't quite make it..
The alternator blue wire is connected  I think everything else is right. The battery was fully charged

Any ideas?
Thanks Tom  

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maybe battery cabling needs a look, the mk1 and early mk2 earth point to the top gearbox bracket is pants the later mk2 and mk3 moved it to a stud on the end of the rear gearbox -> engine mounting bolt which is much better.

if you have some jump leads put one from battery -ve to one ofd the starter bolts then try again, if its better then you know your box earth is poor.

try jumping the red/black from the starter direct to battery +, if it cranks nice then you know its this wire or ign switch at fault.

oh and make surte the battery light comes on with the ignition, if not then the blue wire isnt hooked up or alternator is dead

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how do!

which earth trigger wire? fuel relay trigger?

on the abf engine the idle switch is the 2 pin plug on the back of the throttle body, its built into the throttle stop.

running for a couple seconds then cut out could be immobiliser, crank sensor or isv issue. will it run if you hold the revs up?

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rubjonny said

how do!

which earth trigger wire? fuel relay trigger?

on the abf engine the idle switch is the 2 pin plug on the back of the throttle body, its built into the throttle stop.

running for a couple seconds then cut out could be immobiliser, crank sensor or isv issue. will it run if you hold the revs up?


Hi thanks  , It is the red and yellow wire ,its pictured in your engine loom diagram and titled fuel pump relay earth trigger , sounds kinda important . there was an immobilizer which has been removed  so I guess that could be an issue. I dont think  we have  a crank sensor . It looks like a normal gti engine  except for the head . . Fancy a trip to Scotland 

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ah, on the ABF loom this wire is the yellow/blue that was in g1/3 which I mentioned earlier to move into D/13 to trigger the fuel relay.

since you have fuel pressure all is well here, without this feed connected the 67/80/167 relays wont work at all :)

the crank sensor is the one right at the bottom of the block on the gearbox side, goers to a 3 pin plug near the round plug where the engine sensor harness plugs into the main engine loom. The plug for it has red/yellow, green/black and brown/blue so make sure its got the right one plugged in

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Just had a look but no sign of any crank sensor or where it might be ,did not see anything when the engine was rebuilt

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are you sure your engine is an abf? if it hasnt got a crank sensor, then it may be a kr, 9a, 6a, ace, adl etc.

this is where its hidden:

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Ah Interesting , there is a circle mark in the casting but nowhere to put a sensor . I believe it is the 2 litre passat block that they used to build these engines , maybe we have an important part missing .

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not sure what engine it is 2.0 litre ottenger is all I know and I can't find much info for it . Passat block , bmw pistons , ottenger head .
The injection system looks from my memory to be standard MK1 gti  but its been a long time since I payed with one .
I will post some pictures , cheers

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yeah by the sounds of it you're running it on kjet right?

If so thats totally different from the original ABF ecu and management :)

for the kr the idle switch is the 3 pin on the front of the throttle body, the fuel relay trigger is red/yellow and comes from the ignition ecu.  if you have a 67, 80 or 167 relay in slot 2 and its pumping fuel then this wire is all good at least

this is what abf on original abdf ecu looks like:


and this is an abf running on mk2 16v kjet managment:

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wow thanks ,I made a quick video and posted it on youtube , for some reason I cant get the link to work here . Its title is "ottenger engine "  , cheers , jon

I wil take some pics and post them when I get the hang of the forum

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here are a couple of pics , not IMG_20180307_114702544.jpg hing working today ,

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ok so that is an oettinger engine, about as far away from an abf as is possible :lol:

its running on kjet, so non of the abf guides above are any use to you.

its got a vacuum advance dizzy on there so no ecu, I'd imagine you have a kjet fuel relay in slot 3 which takes care of the pump without the need for anythign in d/13.  the yellow/red wire you have there is probably for the coolant temp sensor for the dash, if so it goes to D/29 on the fusebox :)

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IMG_20180307_114710088.jpg

Thats brilliant , thanks , for your help , I will see what I can do with this and get back to you
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