Sumps, windage trays, gaskets, bolts!

Looks like I'm suffering from a slightly leaky sump gasket which I assume to be the original paper set up.

Figured I may as well fit a new sump with rubber gasket for aesthetics manly.

While looking into it I thought it may be an idea to fit a windage tray as well to just update the system a bit, these seem to come with their own rubber gaskets also.

So my question is . . Is the order of fitment

Engine block
Windage gasket
Windage tray
Sump gasket
Sump

Or have I put one to many gaskets in the equation

Also after all this are longer sump bolts needed and short of being a hindu god with lots of arms is this possible to do on your own

Can you do it all on your own?  YES.  The most difficult part of the operation is the 2 rear bolts between the Transmission bell housing and the engine.  They are hard to get to, and require a 1/4 drive 6pt socket, and a wobble, or Spring extension, as you can directly go after them.  Upon replacing them start them by hand those 2 bolts are easy to cross-thread and Strip.  They require only 87 in/lbs to fully tighten and a torque wrench is a great help to avoid strippage.

Now there are 3 types of gaskets, one is the Cork, one is rubber, and the last one is the gasket/windage tray.

VW used a windage device attached to the oil pump and there were or are two varieties of those, one WIDE and one Shallow, if you are using the windage tray/gasket you can remove the windage device on the ol pump.

There is no additional gaskets needed with the Windage/gasket piece as the rubber along the sides of the new windagetray/gasket is all that is required.

The Two front bolts that are on either side of the crank pulley are also threaded into aluminum and easy to strip, so had thread them first.

If you are going that far you might as well upgrade the 1.8 stock oil pump to the 2.0, as your pump gears go from 30mm to 36, and you get a better pressure.  You will have to get longer bolts on early 1.8's to bolt it to the block, and as of late I have had to change the oil pickup tube from the old to the new because of it bottoming out in the pan, and you can't get the pan on.

Going Back remember to hand start all bolts and Zig-Zag from the middle to the ends similar to a head to prevent binds in the gasket, NO type of Gasket Sealant is to be used as it will cause Gasket migration when you tighten it and it will eventually leak.

I have also found that the wider Factory windage tray performs well and that the "windage/rubber" isn't really needed…I will tell you that if you go the OEM route, that you need to buy a new one as they tend to Break as you remove them from the pick-up tube.  The shorter windage tray if it is installed isn't as good as the wider one, and for that the windage/rubber gasket is a step up.

my two pence.


Block
rubber cladded windage tray (one piece) and you don't need to sandwich the new tray/rubber between Gaskets.
Oil Pan.

or

Block
Cork or rubber gasket
Oil pan

DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE BOLTS, use a torque wrench to insure proper tightness and less chance of Strippage.

Cheers Briano I couldn't of wished for a much more comprehensive answer.

Is there any way of telling which original windage device will be fitted in advance before removal?

Its always nice to have all the parts needed to start with

With the fact that the car may have been previously serviced, the type of windage tray may have changed.

So there is no way to tell till you get it down.
Wow looking it up in the ETKA they call it a Surge Lock, learn something new every day.

051103623

Here are the 2 oem styles fitted to the pumps.

Wide oem that was on my 90's 2h engine.



Earlier type:


All I know is that I broke the fingers on one, and had to wait 5 days for the new to arrive.  The second time I ordered one of each, the 2.0 pump, and the "Surge Lock" in case I broke it, and what do you know I didn't so I have a Spare in my stash.  

Im guessing to make life easier on the sump stainless allen bolts would be a good idea

Right guys just one thing I'm unsure off.

Removed sump today and pick up pipe for inspection and cleaning.

Some of my sump bolts were so "not" tight I'm not surprised it had leaks.

Anyway I didnt realise I needed to completely remove the oil pump to fit the windage tray but its in now and pump back in.

The bit I'm unsure of is the small plastic baffle that I removed from the pickup pipe in tact, does it need to be refitted or is it a waste of time now there is a windage tray?

The pickup pipe is soaking in petrol over night to clean the gauze and will be refitted tomorrow along with the brand new sump





By the way my surge lock is the earlier type but refit it or not?

Scratch that, I've just read Briano's post again and he clearly says you can remove the one on the pick up