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Front wheel bearings

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Has anyone had any issues with aftermarket wheel bearings having play in them once pressed into the hub? The old bearings that I took out where fine just dry so replaced them both. One side has more play than the other but I'm going to have to replace them again and wondered which brands people find best and where from? Thanks in advance

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I know sounds daft but you do have your C.V joint in hud as it's what holds bearing tight when you tighten up the nut

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Have the same issue! does the clip rotate or is it tight in place?

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Ashton09 said

I know sounds daft but you do have your C.V joint in hud as it's what holds bearing tight when you tighten up the nut

I actually haven't got the cv joints in no, surely even with them out it shouldn't have lots of play in it?

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VID_20190413_154913.mp4

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As long you got the clip in place so bearing right in I'm sure it be good once the joint in because they nothing hold bearing together
Same as if you tow them with no shafts in
The bearing fall to bits
I would do nothing till you put shafts in and tighten up the nut and recheck

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In your video it's only the seal which stopping it fall to bits
Don't worry that's totally normal don't worry

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No but had it twice on my VRS.

Bearings shouldn't have play in them when they are new but until its all bolted together its impossible to tell if they are good or not.

Just make sure you follow the correct procedure when tighten the driveshaft nut for the first time (most people dont!)

Lets say for arguments sake the driveshaft nut torque settings is 200nm.

Tighten it initially to 120nm then undo by 180 degrees. Rotate the wheel at least 90 degrees and then tighten fully to 200nm

This helps seat the bearing fully in the hub, dont just go straight in with full torque and assume it'll be ok

Current rides:

2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
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WATERNAIR said

No but had it twice on my VRS.

Bearings shouldn't have play in them when they are new but until its all bolted together its impossible to tell if they are good or not.

Just make sure you follow the correct procedure when tighten the driveshaft nut for the first time (most people dont!)

Lets say for arguments sake the driveshaft nut torque settings is 200nm.

Tighten it initially to 120nm then undo by 180 degrees. Rotate the wheel at least 90 degrees and then tighten fully to 200nm

This helps seat the bearing fully in the hub, dont just go straight in with full torque and assume it'll be ok

Cheers appreciate the help, I think it might pay to bolt the driveshafts in and see what it's like first before worrying too much and pulling them back out for another set.

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On mine when the hubs re fully seated with the ptoper pre-load, Taking for granted that new hugs are used I never have any free play.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

On mine when the hubs re fully seated with the ptoper pre-load, Taking for granted that new hugs are used I never have any free play.



Got to give your bearings hugs, make them feel loved ;)

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

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In terms of brands, I always try to use SKF or FAG bearings regardless of the car - SKF are an OEM bearing manufacturer for VW.

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JakeMcC said

In terms of brands, I always try to use SKF or FAG bearings regardless of the car - SKF are an OEM bearing manufacturer for VW.

They're FAG bearings these ones I've fitted, the company did say they were the better option to be fair its just I presumed they wouldn't have any play in them. I'm going to get the driveshafts bolted into place and make sure there's no play once torqued up as its going to be left for a while as I get on with the bodywork again.

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Colley27 said

JakeMcC said

In terms of brands, I always try to use SKF or FAG bearings regardless of the car - SKF are an OEM bearing manufacturer for VW.

They're FAG bearings these ones I've fitted, the company did say they were the better option to be fair its just I presumed they wouldn't have any play in them. I'm going to get the driveshafts bolted into place and make sure there's no play once torqued up as its going to be left for a while as I get on with the bodywork again.

I have heard of folks that remove the grease seals on the new bearings so they can pack more grease in them prior to installing.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Colley27 said


They're FAG bearings these ones I've fitted, the company did say they were the better option to be fair its just I presumed they wouldn't have any play in them. I'm going to get the driveshafts bolted into place and make sure there's no play once torqued up as its going to be left for a while as I get on with the bodywork again.

As 1985 said, it's impossible to tell until everything is torqued - they could be totally fine :) Either that or return them and get a replacement set, FAG are certainly a well reputed brand.

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the bearings will be loose
in the outer casing until fitted
and tightened

Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible

1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF

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Put the driveshafts in today and tightened them up bit by bit and spinning the wheels round 180 each time and it's done the trick bearings now sit tight. Thanks for everyone's help.
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