Repost - huge backfire.
Posted
#1617641
(In Topic #221130)
Old Timer
So much of my tinkering gets me running and I have a feeling I know the answer to this one but need some more options before dumping loads of cash on parts I don't need.
So replaced a vacuum pipe on the inlet manifold a few weeks back and ever since has been idleing high. Before replacing ignition timing was a about 10 deg TDC. So with vac pipe fixed then I assume I was running too advanced but was still running ok. Since then changes suspension and radiator, so nothing to impose engine running. Battery went flat in the mean time also but once again nothing major.
Took it for a test drive last week and it back fired (out the exhaust not inlet manifold) and at the same time lost all power. Happened after accelerating hard and as I dipped the clutch rev counter just died, car lurched forward as I raise the pedal engine restarts and people duck and scream as the backfire shoots out the exhaust. Does it a couple of time and when I get home turn it off it simply would not start no matter what.
Today I mess about with the timing by ear (I don't have a gun) and set it to about 1000 Rpm so probably slight too advance by maybe not who knows.
Took it for a run and all good for the first 2 or three miles. Then after giving it some juice rev count dies and baaaannngggg. Then all good all the way back home besides idle is a little high.
So lift the bonnet and go to adjust the dizzy a little to drop the revs to just about 950. As I touch it the engine goes to die but does not stall and carries on.
So giving the cable to the cable that goes to the electronic ignition (black plug on the side of the dizzy) the revs start cutting in and out then it dies. So nice loose connection here.
Cable, plug and connector all look a little past it and I also noticed a screw missing from my vac advance module on the dizzy.
I assume when putting some decent load on the engine the cable is vibrating or flexing and causing the ignition to fail. As the engine dies and I lift the clutch it bump starts as speed and then I get the nice exhaust back fire.
Still with me - good - what's your thoughts.
EG engine 1.6 GTI 1980.
How easy is it to strip it off and put a new one on a r should is simple focus on the connector itself as the part is likely ok.
Some pictures.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190521/6db97fb256d945c5dbd8142ac3fcab5f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190521/5a2d29ef375d81673dfe9cac42288374.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190521/ffa5bf0a290c27fb3dfd23de9293cdb6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190521/619cd5435b6c3d0a4ee7c7032a26f929.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190521/e0ec090ad5965d826903a2bfbdbc800a.jpg
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Posted
Local Hero
Now for the warnings…Those hall sender posts are fragile as they are plastic and well aged with heat and oils do not MANHANDLE excessively as you will break it then you will be looking for a new diz or a Hall generator module "don't ask me how I know" and if you break it and try to start it you will short out your ICM, again "Don't ask me how I know."
I would spray it with some crc Electrical cleaner let it work for a bit, then using a tooth brush, (Invented in Alabama USA because everywhere else would of called it a Teeth Brush." Gently Brush the corrosion off the connection and connector.
Do not try to replace the pins as you can't do it too easily, I would look in the YARD (Breakers) for one on a loom and cut it back about 1 foot so you have plenty of cable, and they are all the same connector on the 1.8's. The bottom of the Hall sender when youhav eit out or it is broken off in your hand you will see that the wires out of it on the connector are bare and can short out to the Case. What I did on my new or spare dizzzy is to coat that with clear epoxy to insulate it, as there is very little clearance between the hall sender plate and the Diz you have to be careful about over runs…. They say they are easy to replace, but I will tell you that I couldn't get my broken one off unless I used a torch or Chisel Dremel as it was Iron bound to rusticated to the shaft and was a no go trying to get the shudder wheel off.
Since your boot is torn, be sure that you take the new to you loom from the Breakers with it as well.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
You can test the sender using a meter, there's info in Haynes. Depending where the break in the wire is, you may be able to splice in a new bit.
I lloked at removing my sender when I was cleaning up my dizzy, but as Brian says, it looked too fragile so I left it alone.
You never know, you may be able to source a new plug from vw, worth a try at any rate.
Posted
Old Timer
Repost - huge backfire.
Just got back from another 10 mile drive and no issues with it cutting out. Good job I had the kids with me.
But I now think my clutch has just decided to warn me it’s going to give up.
All I want is a new exhaust and something else turns up to suck the money away.
Might see if I can hold out on the clutch until winter. Hoping I have got a 1000 miles left in it just for this summer then I can have my stainless exhaust fitted before the clutch.
Hmmmmm
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Posted
Local Hero
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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