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Hi guys need some advice if any experts are on here.

I’m painting my mk1 caddy and once finished sanding primer will be doing base coat.
I keep getting contradictory information.

Question is how long can you leave between coats of base colour (will be at least 2) and how long after final base coat and lacquer can you leave it. I’m not 100% sure I will get it all done in one day as I’m doing at home and also have a family to cater for. Is it possible to do first coat say in morning then another couple hours later then the top coat the next day.

Any info will be appreciated


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A lot of depends on the paint system you are using.

There are also many ways of doing it.

Some people opt to sand between coats. If you do this the time between coats does not matter as you are giving the next coat a key to stick to.

If you don't want to sand between coats then it's about 20 mins between coats. Could be upto an hour though. Depends on the paint system and the temp, humidity etc etc.

That's the short answer.

There are books written on the subject tbh and everyone will have a different opinion.

Some say metallics should be sanded as otherwise you can have 'points' from the metal particles which will stick through the clear when sanded, some say don't sand as you can effect the colour.

It's a bit of a can of worms tbh.

At the end of the day, and I mean no offence by this, if you're doing it in your garage (like I do with mine) then you won't get that 'perfect' job anyway. It'll look good and be better than not doing it but a painter ot show car judge will be able to tell the difference. If you're looking to get a reasonable job and 'tidy it up' then crack on. It'll look good but won't be perfect.

Put loads of coats on and take our time. Use at least 4 coats of clear that way you have plenty to wet sand back. This'll help give you a depth and a great shine.

I'd suggest you send the family out for the day and make sure you have plenty of time. Distractions do not help at all, especially if doors keep opening and you're under a time constraint.

By the way. Practice before hand and make sure you have a large piece of card hanging on the way to test the gun spray before each coat. Get a good mask too as the headaches are horrible!

Plenty of thinnners to clean the gun between coats.
TBH if it goes anything like mine, by the time you've cleaned out the gun it's probably time to do the next coat.

Good luck  :thumbs:

Ian

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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Paint spraying

Cheers for that really helpful.

So far with primer so good I can spray just first time on a car lol


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Well it's all one colour anyway.  :lol:   :thumbs:

You could just clear the primer………….

Would look good with a matt clear……….

Ian  :P

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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Hi pal'
Ive looked at this for some time and have just finished painting my rear bumper alpine white, I purchased 2k paint and some standard grey primer from screwfix the finish is amazing with no need for any clear coat as long as you have a decent smooth surface there's no need to sand in between' build the paint up then flatten the orange peel after .

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so you used 2k solid not basecoat ?

Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible

1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF

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2k base and 2k solid are two different
finishes

Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible

1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF

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no doubt i will be corrected

Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible

1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF

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Have a look at this.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0709-automotive-paint/

It's from the colonies but still relevant I think. We do have stricter controls over here so some buts may be different.

2k just means 2 pack or paint and hardener. Lots of things come in 2 pack form. My floor paint for my garage cam in 2 pack form. a colour and an activivator. In most cases 2k spray paint will also need to be thinned with (surprisingly) thinners. But, and here it gets odd again, there are two types of thinnners. One type is for adding to paint to 'thin' it ready for spraying and the other type is for 'cleaning up' and removing paint. So you need 2 types of thinners when ordering.

Some 2k paints do not need a clear coat, as used by okmate, above. These are generally just flat colours (very often these are also RAL colours, which is standard colours). These are known as single stage paints.
If you want metallic or anything not a 'flat' colour then a 2 stage paint system is needed. This is the base and then the clear or lacquer.

Best bet is to speak to whomever will be supplying your paint. Where possible use the same manufacturer for all stages, selaer, primer, base colour and clear.

As a bit of an aside, my tin top was bare metalled and then cler coated on the top. The clear was 2k from a gun. This has been fine. When I got chips in the clear I used clear from a spray can (this is effectively 1k) and it went milky in appearance when it got damp after a couple of weeks. Be warned! All paint is not the same!!!!!

Ian


Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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Paint spraying

Cheers for the info the caddy is going a metallic colour. I will have a chat with the guys when I pic it up


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