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New engine mounts / 4-branch manifold

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After reading various posts for the last few hours that have been posted over the course of a decade I'm still not completely sure what engine mount set up I should run.

So standard DX lump but will be soon fitting an Ashley 4 branch, without a flexi.

I was under the impression that due to lack of flexi I would need to uprate the mounts to reduce movement and potential cracking on the manifold

But I've read a lot of horror stories about unbearable vibration.

Would fitting OE quality new mounts be sufficient?

I dont think the front being poly makes any odds anyway and I doubt the drivers side one will get touched

Current rides:

2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer

IMG_20190803_123357.jpg

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Fit a Mk1 golf diesel rear engine mount as they are harder rubber than petrol cars.

Like this but as always 1st one I found so shop around..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK1-GOLF-Transmission-engine-mount-Mk1-Golf-Diesel-models-171399151B/361490999173?hash=item542a8ae785:g:WqIAAOSwBPJap8TG:rk:2:pf:0


Also don't snatch the gears or lift if the throttle quickly in low gears as that makes the engine jump…  

Last edit: by mark1gls


1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Why no flexi?

My bro in law had a very small flexi and it broke. He bought a longer one and all is good with the world.

Flexi's are there to stop the manifold and exhaust parting company.

Aren't they?

Ian

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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I had heard that even the diesel one can cause to much vibration.

borednow purely because it does already have one.
Its a 2" Ashley manifold being mated to a 2" Jetex system.

I had considered taking the manifold to have a flexi put in it and in turn a larger slotted outlet to allow the rest of the system to fit into

Current rides:

2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer

IMG_20190803_123357.jpg

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Even VW on the older Sciroccos with the 4-2 and Hard mounted dual down to pipe had a 2foot long flexure mounted on it.

The Toilet Bowel flange on Diesels didn't need it as the spring clips and mounting gave and took under engine torque.

The Mk3, had it mounted above the down pipe on the g60 4-2 manifold, as well as TT-Tuning.

When I installed a Pace-setter Header on mine, I added a flexure between the header tail piece and the Catalytic
convertor.  I never had a header pipe shear, but then I only had about 15K on it before I got GOB-Smacked in the rear by a Jeep.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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2'!!!
Wow wasnt expecting that long.

Exhaust flexis are readily available on ebay with a 51mm I.D so would aid fitting nicely.

I guess the best method would be to bolt the header on the head and then measure how long a flexi I can squeeze in between the outlet and the rest of the system, if any!

Seems a more proper way of doing things than just stopping the lump moving

Current rides:

2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer

IMG_20190803_123357.jpg

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Yup deffo! Otherwise you're going to be trying to stop all movement cos even a single mm would result in loads of mm at the tail pipe meaning that it'd keep crashing into the body or the beam or both.

If you're exhaust is made for a golf the chances are it'll have a gap between where it ends and the manifold as they normally come short to add the flexi.

Depending on the supplier of the manifold they also can come with a flexi. I'm assuming yours didn't though.

Cos I used a polo engine and manifold and a golf exhaust I went and got a cup style one with spring bolts all welded to a 14" stainless pipe.

When I cleared out the garage I found the flexi that came with the manifold I'd forgotten all about  :lol:

Ian

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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WATERNAIR said

2'!!!
Wow wasnt expecting that long.

The Raceland Header that I have for my perversion is a Cat delete, while it comes with a tail piece that has a Spring loaded clamp on it, I too will go with a flexure as it needs to be there for the give and take of the engine torquing up and down on revs.

Now you can limit some of the movement by removing the front slam panel mounting cup bolts and inserting some large fender washers between the Cup and the Slam panel to tighten up the front engine mount to the Cup.  This will also limit the rock of the engine on Torque and an easy way of adding 300HP (SOP Rating) to the performance of the car.  (Seat Of The Pants).

A lot of off roaders over here and folks that do the Jim Kana's do this….. Sort of like using a Chain on my old MG's to limit movement or rock of the engine.  :)




What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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