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new to me 1992 golf Cabriolet

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So I bought this 1992 golf from someone who needed to sell it. apparently the owner had sold it to her brother, who started to modify it… there was some issues with the sale , so they took the car back. The brother then took a baseball bat to it and smashed the tail lights driver window. took ignition wires, battery and loosened some bolts and clamps, to be spiteful. He also loosened the distributor and turned the distributor some.
I bought the car relatively cheap ($300US) , got a new battery and ignition leads and some small stuff. I put all the things together and got her to a point where the engine would fire up. I checked coolant and oil level and then started the engine. I noticed that the lower motor mount is gone (??) after a few seconds, maybe 40 I noticed a lot of smoke from the back of the engine. Turned off the motor and see that there is a bunch of oil underneath.
It seems to come from various spots , to me it seems like a head gasket issue… not sure.
Now, if I get a new engine. I assume putting in the stock 1.8l engine would be the least of a hassle. But what other engines would bolt up without changing too much or anything?
The car is a manual transmission, I forgot to mention that.  Engine is the stock 1.8l B code engine from the wolfsburg edition. Screen Shot 2018-07-14 at 9.40.45 PM.png
 

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I am thinking the engine has a head gasket issue. I don't see coolant in the oil , oil level seems good , no bubbles out of the reservoir. But when staring there will be a bunch of oil dripping back side of the engine, plus smoke, I shut the engine off in a hurry. I tried to capture what I could see in a video. Not sure if that is any help.
- YouTube

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Head gasket failures on the Gassers while they can occur, it is more likely that your Valve cover gasket is bad. When the Valve cover gasket goes it will spill oil on the back side of the engine as the canter of the engine is to the rear.

Oil will Pool on the rear of the gasket and seep out.
Over tightening or under tightening the nuts that hold the cover on can cause the valve cover to pucker and leak, or just plainly leak.

Now to verify that the Head gasket is gone is fairly easy.
Cold engine. Remove the Expansion tank cap.
Take a latex glove and tie it over the open hole tightly as it needs to be air tight.
Car in Neutral or park E-Brake fully on.
Start the car, then from under the hood rev the engine to 3000 rpm for about 30-40 seconds.
If the Glove inflates and gives you the Finger, Bad Head Gasket. If it doesn't then you are looking at other places, and the highest suspect is the Valve cover gasket.

If you see that there is oil on the top of the manifolds exhaust or intake, which I see in your pictures
then it is the Valve cover that is leaking.

Good buy at 300, I paid 1500 for my 93., and a whole lot more for my 92.

Good sites that are nice to know are:
www.cabby-info.com
Tech Groups
Every how to that I have ever done including replacing a valve cover on a 92 are at a few places. Here in the Archive section, how-to's Briano's 92 how do I do thats. See the link in my signature.
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1065244-Official-Cabrio-Cabriolet-FAQ/page3 post 75 https://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/forumdisplay.php/125-MK1-Rabbit-Mods-DIYs

Now there are 2 types of gaskets, the rubber upgrade where you have to remove the shouldered studs and replace them with non-shouldered studs.  And the normal 3 piece rubber/cork. You use no sealant, save for 2 drops of red RTV where the Cam over seal and the cork gasket meet.  Same for the one piece.

Clean the head surfaces well and the Valve cover, you will also want to clean the screen on the bottom.
All documented here https://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/24508-How-to-Replace-your-Valve-Cover-Gasket.-90-93-Cabby

The biggest issue that I have ever had on owning a MK1 diesel/Cabriolet over the years is knowing that the nuts on the top of the valve cover need to be exactly 87 in/lbs of torque, no more no less…. so you may want to borrow, rent or buy a 1/4drive  inch/lbs torque wrench and a good 1/4 inch drive 6 point deep well 10mm socket.

If the same fool that thought he knew Cabriolets, removed the oil windage tray, you may want to get another. If you buy the one piece, get the Vicktor-Reinz it is rubber cladded metal, and the better gasket.

Aqua Blue Perl, Like that color….. and from the looks of it you are missing some clutch cover tins that keep oil and crappage off the clutch. One day yours could look like my 93. 93.1.JPG new int.JPG I changed it over from the white Interior to Tan, and placed a Tan Canvas top on it.  

Last edit: by Briano1234


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Common problem with rocker cover gasket leaking, start with that and if possible change the cork gasket to a rubber gasket but you need to change the studs to ones with out the shoulder, the nuts only need to be "nipped up".
Start with the easier cheaper options before pulling the engine apart to find a leak.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Briano1234 said

Head gasket failures on the Gassers while they can occur, it is more likely that your Valve cover gasket is bad. When the Valve cover gasket goes it will spill oil on the back side of the engine as the canter of the engine is to the rear.

Oil will Pool on the rear of the gasket and seep out.
Over tightening or under tightening the nuts that hold the cover on can cause the valve cover to pucker and leak, or just plainly leak.

Now to verify that the Head gasket is gone is fairly easy.
Cold engine. Remove the Expansion tank cap.
Take a latex glove and tie it over the open hole tightly as it needs to be air tight.
Car in Neutral or park E-Brake fully on.
Start the car, then from under the hood rev the engine to 3000 rpm for about 30-40 seconds.
If the Glove inflates and gives you the Finger, Bad Head Gasket. If it doesn't then you are looking at other places, and the highest suspect is the Valve cover gasket.

If you see that there is oil on the top of the manifolds exhaust or intake, which I see in your pictures
then it is the Valve cover that is leaking.

Good buy at 300, I paid 1500 for my 93., and a whole lot more for my 92.

Good sites that are nice to know are:
www.cabby-info.com
Tech Groups
Every how to that I have ever done including replacing a valve cover on a 92 are at a few places. Here in the Archive section, how-to's Briano's 92 how do I do thats. See the link in my signature.
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1065244-Official-Cabrio-Cabriolet-FAQ/page3 post 75 https://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/forumdisplay.php/125-MK1-Rabbit-Mods-DIYs

Now there are 2 types of gaskets, the rubber upgrade where you have to remove the shouldered studs and replace them with non-shouldered studs.  And the normal 3 piece rubber/cork. You use no sealant, save for 2 drops of red RTV where the Cam over seal and the cork gasket meet.  Same for the one piece.

Clean the head surfaces well and the Valve cover, you will also want to clean the screen on the bottom.
All documented here https://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/24508-How-to-Replace-your-Valve-Cover-Gasket.-90-93-Cabby

The biggest issue that I have ever had on owning a MK1 diesel/Cabriolet over the years is knowing that the nuts on the top of the valve cover need to be exactly 87 in/lbs of torque, no more no less…. so you may want to borrow, rent or buy a 1/4drive  inch/lbs torque wrench and a good 1/4 inch drive 6 point deep well 10mm socket.

If the same fool that thought he knew Cabriolets, removed the oil windage tray, you may want to get another. If you buy the one piece, get the Vicktor-Reinz it is rubber cladded metal, and the better gasket.

Aqua Blue Perl, Like that color….. and from the looks of it you are missing some clutch cover tins that keep oil and crappage off the clutch. One day yours could look like my 93. 93.1.JPG new int.JPG I changed it over from the white Interior to Tan, and placed a Tan Canvas top on it.

Wow, I like it . Your car is very nice looking. Its going to be a long way for mine to look this way. Thank you for sharing , Briano.
So I cleaned the block again today and once she was dry I then took off the valve cover. and low and behold, there wasn't even a gasket in there. I guess there was a cork gasket once, since the vertical pieces are still there. But what kind of a dimwit just bolts it back together without anything? Nevermind. I am about to order a new one. I think I get the rubber gasket with new studs? Or should I get another cork gasket? I'll stick the cover in the ultrasonic cleaner and see if i can get some of the crud off the filter. I sprayed it already with degreaser and let it marinate some. After that I'll paint the outside of the cover to mask the rust IMG_2736.JPG

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mark1gls said

Common problem with rocker cover gasket leaking, start with that and if possible change the cork gasket to a rubber gasket but you need to change the studs to ones with out the shoulder, the nuts only need to be "nipped up".
Start with the easier cheaper options before pulling the engine apart to find a leak.

great thank you. that's what I was thinking of doing…Was just about to order the rubber gasket set. great response.

Last edit: by AllMacs

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IMG_2752.JPG I found this connector, which i dont know what it connects to. Its a black and black bue wire , i think and its next to the air filter. It naturally falls into the brake booster area. But i cant see anything it coild connect to. Do you guys know?

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Look at your transmisson, IIRC on the Manual Trannies there was a 2 pin switch for the backup lights when in reverse using those colors on a manual.

Screen Shot 2018-07-20 at 6.44.09 AM.png

 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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IMG_2791.JPG I found a plug at the side of the gearbox, it is a 4 pin connector, however and the plug has only 2.

Another question about getting the timing sort of right again. The sensor on the distributor acts on cyl 1, correct? So i ought to turn the engine to top dead center and ajust the distributior to the rotor to get top dead ignition  there, right? I can from there advance it a little, but to hust get an idea. I have my tools at a different location at the moment.

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IMG_2792.JPG Does this look correct? IMG_2793.JPG

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Looks like some one switched transmissions on you possibly. If that is the proper plug as in width just align the tabs and click and forget it it is probably unplugged, there are only 2 wires to operate the switch….. So you may have a 4 pin plug with but 2 wires being used.

You can either find the proper jack and convert your jack  plug to the one on your transmission, or replace the jack plug on your tranny to match the plug…..

Everything you need to know about the Transmission Reverse switch but were afraid to ask
brokevw  .com
Reverse Wiring


Timing is fired every time a cylinder is TDC.
If you go by the marks you are using you could be way out.

The correct way to time a DIgi engine is:

Remove the white plug off the Transmisison bell housing, then remove the 27mm Green or white collar
So you see the finger.

Rotate the engine using the crank bolt 19mm Hex or 12 point, there is a difference.

So that the Crank is at the mark stamped (0) on the flywheel (automatics have a easier to see stamping on the flex plate).

When the Crank is at 0TDC
Then the Cam should be at the hash between the 0 | T under the arrow and the Distributor rotor is centered in the middle of the hash stamped into the lip of the Diz usually @ 12:30-1:00 position which is number one lead.

Once this is set, then you replace the shield rotor and cap.

Start the car allow it to come up to temp and cycle the fan one time.

Loosen the bolt on the diz.

With a timing light and a second person behind the wheel  Start the car, then remove the blue CTS sensor Plug and Reve the engine above 3000 rpm 3 times to reset the ECU on the third time hold the engine at 2250 rpm and with the timing light set the timing to 6 BTDC
Replace the Blue CTS sensor connector and the engine may rise or fall… Turn the car off then lock the diz bolt.

or, you can set it with one person, and all you need is the ignition key.

Set the Timing on the engine as above so all the marks align…(do not trust the pulley marks between the Crank Pulley and the Intermediate shaft)

That is why the finger is at 0 the cam at 0 and the diz in the middle of the hash. Replace the shield, rotor, and cap.

Carefully remove the plug off the Distributor Hall sender.
Move the rubber boot off the connector to expose the back side of the pins and reconnect the connector.

You are going to clip your DVOM Black lead to Frame Ground, and insert the Red lead carefully in to the Green/White pins hole and make contact.

Ignition switch to the Run NOT START

Look at the voltage on the DVOM.  Slowly rotate your engine by the cam bolt or the crank so that you are on the 6BTDC mark.  If you are seeing 11V you are done, of not slowly move the diz so you see it go from 0V to 11V
Once the DVOM hits the 11V you will also hear the fuel pumps run for 4 seconds….. Tighten the bolt on the Diz, then turn the engine off that back to 0 so that when you move it forward again to the 6BTDC you see it jump to 11…..
Turn the ignition off.

Carefully remove your DVOM,  again carefully remove the Plug on the Diz, and reseat the boot, and reconnect.

presto your done.

Read more about it on this link.
Static Ignition Timing on VW A1 and A2 DigiFant Engines.

From your pictures it looks like you are on the number 2 Cylinder, so you need to get it on the number 1.

Then if your wires aren't right you will need to pull them off and correct them.

From cabby-info the pictures of the timing marks. Remember yours is DIgifant and not CIS.

http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/AdjustingTheTiming.pdf

Then the correct wiring of the Dizzy is 1-3-4-2 when 1 is at (0) Zero time….
 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Early gearbox fitted to your car so it's been switch sometime in the cars life, if you look underneath the gearbox from in front of the engine bay you should see a polished bit of the gearbox and the gearbox code.

The brokevw website explained where to look and codes, you might have a 4T gearbox, 4 speed and big 5th economy gear.

Have you got a picture of the gearbox flanges and drive shaft end as you should have 100mm flanges?

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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This  'TO' mark marks the TDC correct? I stuck a screw driver in cyl 1 and it seems to be on the top most point.

Ill go outside and check the markingd on the transmission.

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I cant seem to spot anything polished on this transmission. I have a 1992 Golf cabriolet wolfsburg edition IMG_2794.JPG IMG_2795.JPG

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You are looking in the wrong place… it's the yellow square in the 2nd picture on the link below….

020 Oil


or info here…

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=helllllpppp%2Funtitled_14


By the way… all Mk1 golf cabriolet are Wolfsburg edition as that is where they are made, Karmann built them under license from VW.  :thumbs:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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I see well this one was sold here in the US as a special 'wolfsburg edition '  
http://museum.cabby-info.com/wolfsburgedition.htm

I found this number after you posted your helpful link IMG_2796.JPG

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I'm not up on US models as they do differ from UK spec cars……

ACN gearbox came with 90mm flanges, big revering light switch and a big 5th gear, GTi box in my 1988 car, ACD  gearbox is normally 70mph at 3,500rpm and ACN is 84mph at 3,500rpm.

From the numbers you can work out when the gearbox was made, info on web.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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IMG_2797.PNG Step 3
 'Go to the distributor and check if it points to the little notch. If it doesn't you have to loosen the belt, get it off the camshaft pulley and turn the rotor by hand until it points to the notch. Put the belt back on and make sure the rotor doesn't move.'

Im not sure what they mean by 'turn it by hand' turn at the diatributor or rurn the crank? Will that not change the position of the TDC?

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This is what my distributor points at when TDC IMG_2798.JPG IMG_2799.JPG
Note the mark on the distributor . How do i get it to line up where it is supposed to?

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Ok... not sure if that was right. But the only way I could think of moving the distributor without disrupting the timing mark was by unbolting it and twist toward the mark on the distributor. . Now how do I tension the timing belt again?
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