Struggling to start from cold

Got a 1990 cabby that I have just bought.
Problem is it is struggling to start from cold with no throttle, when throttle applied will fire ok but once started revs are high.
Runs fine other higher than normal revs 1500rpm on tick over.
Idle adjust screw all the way in too.
Starts fine with no throttle when warm.

Any help, advise appreciated.

Thanks

Yes warmer days will prove ok.
A little gas pedal application to prime carb before ignition. Two or three presses. Turn ignition with half to a quarter pedal.
Reduce gas pedal to just on ball.
60 secs release fully and allow to warm itself .If still prob perhaps a little more rev until warm .
But sure to sound sweet after few minutes unless you have a grapefruit of a hole in your back box….

hopsandmovingon said

Yes warmer days will prove ok.
A little gas pedal application to prime carb before ignition. Two or three presses. Turn ignition with half to a quarter pedal.
Reduce gas pedal to just on ball.
60 secs release fully and allow to warm itself .If still prob perhaps a little more rev until warm .
But sure to sound sweet after few minutes unless you have a grapefruit of a hole in your back box….

Thanks for looking at my post, but I should have mentioned it's a 1.8 k-jet no carb?? 

Hello Chrisvdus.
Something not right there as you should not need to touch the throttle to start.
What happens if you just keep turning the key?
Does it sound/smell as if it's running rich when started?

As it's a new car to you when was it last given a good  service, oil, air, Fuel filter, spark plugs, HT leads, dissy cap, rotor arm?

There is lots it could be but I would get to know the car and start with the basics and looking at common starting problems with the K-jet, eg What's the fuel filler neck like any rust holes, rust in the fuel tank and filters etc.

    

Hiya mark1gls, thanks for the info, have been looking over the forum and found a few pointers, like the fuel filler neck as you have mentioned, have changed oil and filter was just going to changed fuel filter then decided to inspect filler neck looks like it needs a new one, how hard is this to change, thanks Chris 

They are straight forward to change but they are a lot of money to buy compared to the tin top filler neck as the cabriolet ones are different.

Tin top filler neck £25 ish
Cabriolet filler neck £65 ish

If you look in this post on page 2 you can see I've just had to replace mine as I also had a few rust holes in it. I thought you could just bend a tin top filler neck to fit but you can't it needs to be cut and re welded.
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=technical%2Ffuel-systems-and_3%2Funtitled_16&start=20

It's best to buy a new rubber hose to join the filler neck to the tank and 2 new big jubilee clips.
The top screws behind the stuck on plastic ring can a problem as the rust away so you may need some new screws and the foam gasket and plastic ring may also need replacing.

The filler neck is hold on by 1 bolt at the bottom and the 3 screws at the top.

When you buy a new filler neck be sure to paint and treat it well as there is a good mud trap inder the wheel arch.

All the parts are available.
http://www.classic-vw.co.uk/filler-neck-components-828-c.asp

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/golf-cabriolet/mk1-cabrio-fuel-induction-parts/tanks-filler-caps/

Some other pictures and info on filler neck in my project thread.http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fmy-daily-drive-1988-gti&kfs79=90

Thanks for all the info mark1gls, really helpful will be putting a order together soon just having a look around the rest of the car just in case I need anything else, will keep you updated on progress, I have two mk1 golf's this 1990 cab I bought from a friend that had it in storage so I think it defo needs some tlc and a filler neck the other one is a older one and has its own issues, was hoping this 1990 would have been alot easier to solve and resolve, thanks again for your help, Chris 

Just got in from work and have two parcels new filler neck and fuel tank just waiting for connecting hose and the screws for the neck, then I will attempt the change over bit nervous never change a tank before 

Do you have a Haynes Manual?
It's a straight forward job to change the filler neck and can be done on a drive in an hour.
Changing the fuel tank is a different matter as you have to drop the rear beam and with any job on a old car it' rusty nuts and bolts that can add problems and extra time.

Is the car your daily drive?
If so I would change the filler neck and have a look in the fuel tank and check the lift pump filter for dirt/rusty bits, as soon as possible, as that should be straight forward.
For changing the fuel tank, clean the threads showing holding the rear beam to the car and get some Plusgas or similar and start socking the nuts and threads and leave for a few days (if possible spray them some more) this is because you don't want to shear the bolts off and they might not been touched since the car was built and they hold the rear wheels to the car!

Rear beam rubber bushes may need replacing. Poly or rubber are both available new.

Have a good look at the rubber rear brake hoses as you have to undo them to drop the rear beam so sock them as well and it's a good time to think about fitting new braided hoses if the old rubber ones are cracked also if you are replacing them and you can't undo them on the car you can cut the hose and remove the rest later.

I would also paint the filler neck as the paint on the new one won't last 5 minutes under the wheel arch, at the very least some stone chip paint. Don't use hammerite as it's to hard and just flakes off when hit by dirt/mud/water etc thrown at it, lots of other better products out there.
Painting the tank is up to you but I've seen unpainted ones last but painted ones will last longer.

My rear beam on the Mk1 Scirocco after a bit of painting.


Welded bolts holding the beam on. I cleaned and painted mine but they was both very solid after 37 years!

Hiya mark1gls, thanks for all the great info I am determined to the job and do it right had a look at the pics I was going to use hammerite but I agree stone chip will be better, just need a dry day then I will make a start, oh and no the two golf's are just weekend toys when up and running right, so I have time to take them apart and can be stood until completed, a funny thing happened the other day went to move the 1990 cabby and started first turn of the key no throttle but still idle slightly high after warm up at around 1300rpm? Strange!!, will blow the fuel lines and change the fuel filter again and see how she runs then fingers crossed,here is the two cars tucked into the garage