starting issues for info

Hi all this may be of help to some people with starting issues this is what happened to mine it would be ok once started but took forever to get going did all the obvious bits like you do but no difference

replaced the following

plugs leads
fuel pump
metering head
tank pump

no difference so i then purchased a new fuel  acumilator apparently this holds the required fuel pressure for when starting i changed mine and it was an instant inprovement no problems after that

and since i have replaced 3 of these on other peoples cars and they to have had an intant improvement

Ben,

What was the symtoms?  Mine needs cranking with full throttle to start.  If you leave it a few days it starts on the button.  I've been presuming leaky injectors.

All my pressure tests are good.

Cheers

Rich

What was the symtoms? Mine needs cranking with full throttle to start. If you leave it a few days it starts on the button. I've been presuming leaky injectors.

you been driving my car.

smithysmoo said

What was the symtoms? Mine needs cranking with full throttle to start. If you leave it a few days it starts on the button. I've been presuming leaky injectors.

you been driving my car.

So there's more that one  

Ben - any feedback?

Same for me too :cry:

Mines a Cranker too, unless left alone for 3 days!!! 8O

I assumed leaky injectors, just to cold to investigate further, my car has new fuel pump and pipes.

Its not my injectors either, I changed them for new and it didn't solve the prob  

Us guys need to get our thinking heads on an all try and sort this issue out. Would make my car near enough spot on. :dontknow:

The chap I bought the car had starting problems and I think it got better but not great after the pump was done.

I wonder how much an accumaltor is going to cost?

Buy a mk1 diesel,first crack every time no matter the weather  :wink:
Also runs on vegetable oil!
Bert

I did have a VW 1.6 diesel, unfortunalty it was in a transporter great engine, a little week for the van though

Mine starts the same Summer or winter!

Sorry for the delay

i would say if you have leaky injectors its not going to help you should be able to see if they are leaking most people over look the accumilator because its hidden away under the back but trust me theres is a huge improvement when this is changes half the problems with the k-jet is that its all to do with pressure get this right and your laughing

another thing you can do is unplug you the warm up regulator this also controls pressure ive know people to unplug and alsso get a huge improvement

i paid ?80 for a new acummilator im sure crazyquiff could get one cheaper maybe if youve replaced everythink apart from the acummilator i would say this is the next step not a nice job to do either

inside the acummilator is a rubber diagphram (excuse my spelling im common) this just rots aways on the end of the acummilator the is a little screw if this is wet or looks like its been leaking then its shot also another trick is to change your fuel pump relay for a later mk2 type with the white base this makes the fuel pump prime on ignition where as the early ones only prime when cranking or do what ive bin the k-jet system and engine and spoon a 20v turbo lump in there lol  :wink:  

Must try another accumulator then - but i just don't understand why after 2 or 3 days the car starts on the button - the accumulator would have lost all pressure by then….

Must get my thinking head on….

Note later cab accumulators are different to the tin top ones

Cheers

Rich

I used to suffer from the same problem, if i left te car standing for a bit it would not start straight away, then when it did catch it would run on 3 cylinders for abit. If i left the car for a day or two it would catch the instant i turned my key.

As you suspect with yours i had a a few leaky injectors. I checked this by pulling out the injectors and placing them in a jar, then i bridged the fuel pump relay and manualy lifted the flap on the fuel distributor. When i let go of the flap and the injectors stopped spraying i could clearly see that two of the injectors were weeping. The haynes says that the instant you let go of the flap the fuel should stop immediatly and there should not even be a drop of fuel coming out. Clearly these two injectors had been flooding the engine when i switched the engine off, and the petrol took a while to wash out of the bores which is why it would start perfectly after a few days.

After this i changed my injectors and i never had the problem again. It always started on the button

crazyquiff said

Ben,

What was the symtoms?  Mine needs cranking with full throttle to start.  If you leave it a few days it starts on the button.  I've been presuming leaky injectors.

All my pressure tests are good.

Cheers

Rich

?100 on injectors or ?80 on an accumulator???

Which way…. :?

?100 on injectors or ?80 on an accumulator???

Which way….  

Have you done prowlers tests? If so then I'd go for the accumulator then!

You've had a look at your lift pump havent you?

ive fitted the tin top pump and accumilator to my cab pretty much a straight swap i would imagine if you start changing injectors it would be a good idea to do the accumilator

theres lots of things that could cause your car to start but if you sit back and think ive got a spark then it could only be fuel its been said by dave walker at emerald quote

 if you mod your car getting your fuel pressure and fuel delivery can almost be impossible with the k-jet system as its not really an injection system ?? read that in the golf mag couple of months ago

You can test you injectors to eliminate them