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Cambelt Tensioner removal issues

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Hi, I've fitted new cambelt but unable to remove tensioner to fit new one. I can undo the nut but there isn't enough clearance between the end of the stud and the bodywork. Anyone else had this problem?

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What engine have you got,  standard 1.6/1.8 or 1.1/1.3 or different engine?

There should be plenty of room on a 1.6/1.8, I guess if it's this size engine someone has changed the stud, you may need to remove the stud and fit the right stud, VW dealer should sell you right length stud.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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If your motor mount is dead, then your engine is lower than it should be and you can get the tensioner off because of clearance issue.

Place a block of wood under the oil pan and Jack the engine up a little bit.  If you are still having a problem, then Take out the through bolt on the motor mount and jack the engine.

I had one mount so bad that the bang of the mount bent the tensioner stud..

On others the lower timing cover was binding the tensioner and jacking the engine by the pan worked wonders.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Sounds about right, the stud doesn't look too long, so maybe it sitting low is the issue. I'll try jacking it up and see if that works. Ten if not take the bolt out. Thanks 

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Jacking the engine done the job! Thanks may need to look at replacing the engine mount now, easy job?

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robesy13 said

Jacking the engine done the job! Thanks may need to look at replacing the engine mount now, easy job?

lololololol…..not as easy as you would think, but gassers are easier than Diesels.

http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/EngineMounts.pdf


Having a new one pressed in isn't that much, but then again I have used the Freeze the mount for three days, warmed the bracket up with a torch, align the mount, and Smack it in with a BFH for years…. Have to be quick and qwench it in water…  I used a 2X10 with a hole drilled in it to allow the mount to fully seat so it would be centered.

I have found that cutting a hunk of rubber out of the old mount, and placing it in the cut out of the top new one, gives a little more life to the things, as they will still go bad and rattle everything, but the alignment of the engine isn't bothered, and you have no shifting binds.  

I used to use the spare sockets in the area but….rubber works as well.



Yes the mount is in the proper orientation as the Arrow on the steel center is up.

Dead one I removed, see the socket that kept the alignment.



What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Thanks mate appreciate the info, looks like the next job on the list  ;)
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