Vacuum pipes on original airbox with weber

For various reasons I want to put the original air filter back on my car, the big black box thing with all the ancillaries that go with it. I have a few questions though - where are the vac pipes routed to? On the metal bit of the black box that sits on the carb there's two vac outlet things on the left hand side, and there's one more on the plastic elbow on a swively thing. Where do all these connect to? I only have one vac port on the green sphere. so they can't all go here! I'm guessing one goes to the carb, though I'll have to put a t-piece in 'cos there's only one vac outlet on that and it goes to the dizzy atm. Any one got any diagrams that they could share to make my life easier? Oh and also, the big plastic hose that comes straight off the plastic elbow, what does the end of this attach to? Does it go through that circle bracket by the radiator and just sort of hang there?

You don't need the green sphere anymore, weber instructions say to remove it if I remember rightly. It's a vacuum reservoir iirc.

Unless I did my vacuum pipes wrong I did the one on the back of the carb to the cold/hot air feed valve on the air intake, while the dizzy advance is connected to the servo via the "big hose", if that makes any sense?

That said, I've no idea where these points connect to so I'd like to be enlightened too  :mrgreen:

Can Mods or the like make this a sticky has it as been asked on many occasion, Much appreciated.

You need a t-piece for back of carb, piping from t-piece to carb, left part of t-piece fit piping from there to air filter box as in 1st pic.
Right side of t-piece at back of carb goes to the black and white connector and connect onto left pin of servo pipe as shown in 2nd pic
Then the right pin from servo pipe goes to dizzy.
BUT as in alot of cases some people have snapped one of the pins of the servo pipe, simply add another t-piece and connect both set of pipes.
This is excactly same on all 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 carb'd blocks, thus no need for the green ball, This applies for weber carb conversions
Pete :wink:

That's a great help, thank you. I have a couple of further questions - does the one that isn't going to the carb in your picture on the top go to the swively thing at the other end of the airbox? Also, after I put the T-piece at the back of the carb so I can run a line from the airbox to the carb why can't I take the other end straight to the dizzy where it goes to at the moment?

One more question - how does the airbox fasten to the carburettor. On the ETKA there looks to be a kind of bail you can get, which I think my old mk2 had as well. But I can't remember what it attached to - the carburettor, presumably? Is there provision for this on the Weber?

Q: - Does the one that isn't going to the carb in your picture on the top go to the swively thing at the other end of the airbox?
A: - Yes, it runs down the arm on the airbox and clips in middle.

Q: - Also, after I put the T-piece at the back of the carb so I can run a line from the airbox to the carb why can't I take the other end straight to the dizzy where it goes to at the moment?
A:- Because he vacuum advance on the dizzy needs the vaccuum which comes from the servo pipe, if you joined to carb only you'd have no vacuum and thus no timing

Q:-how does the airbox fasten to the carburettor. On the ETKA there looks to be a kind of bail you can get, which I think my old mk2 had as well. But I can't remember what it attached to - the carburettor, presumably? Is there provision for this on the Weber?
A:- i had to search ur post to see what block you have, ok a 1.5 and 36 tlp weber. mine is a 1.6  and has the weber 32/34dtml which replaces the pierburg 2E2 carb, plus air filter box is plastic on 1.6 & 1.8 carb blocks & different due to diameter of carb.
On the original carb solex 1b3, it has a metal type handle which pulls over the metal air box, take this off the solex carb as you need it, when you fitted the weber it would have had a bracket that was held on via the 2 bolts your bolt the carb to the manifold (Gold bracket with arrow pointed to it in pic below), on each side of that bracket the  
metal handle i told you to remove from original carb clips on the same way.
BUT, you need to do a mod in order for the original air box to fit on the weber, you need to cut with dremmel or like a little bit of the lip on the inside of the air filter box where it sits on the base of carb, i used my friends block to show you where you need to cut on the air box.
Cut a small piece of the lip away so the air filter box fits snug all the way around the base, cut round on airbox just that little part of bracket where the arrow points in the pic.
Any further help, don't hesitate to ask fella  

Thanks for your help, this is all very useful!! I'm confused about the dizzy connexion tho - as mine is at the moment, the vacuum pipe comes straight off the carb to the dizzy, and this is as per the instructions that came with the weber:

" VACUUM ADVANCE CONNECTION
a. 1.5 litre models Kit No. 15310802 only - Fit the new vacuum advance pipe (12) supplied, to the distributor vacuum capsule and the vacuum tube 'C' located at the rear of the carburettor"

So given that this is how the instructions advise it, and how mine is now (and running great), I'm presuming it will be all right to do as I suggested before and run it from the t-piece I will be putting at the back of the carb straight to the dizzy?

Also, I trial fitted it the other day and it fits snug on the carb with no modification required - perhaps either 'cos I have the 36 tlp not the 32/34dtml, or because I have the earlier metal type airbox. Either way, it appears like it goes on no trouble, which is how it should I think 'cos the instructions advise using the original airbox and imply it's a direct fit.

One other thing I asked earlier - where does the other end of the air pipe attach to? There's a bracket next to the radiator that it looks like it goes through, but then what, does it just hang loose?

Do the  way i have mentioned and no problems or Do the way you feel is right.
I know my carb's, had a 1.3 big block(Puzzled?) 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 blocks, mk1, mk2 golf's & scirocco's bud.
Of course the air filter is metal on yours, they only came on the 1.5's Solex 1B3, and 1.6 'Pre 1980' with 2B2 carb which is also uses same JB block as the 1.5, but not going into it.
You clearly have things missing and not accepting the correct info from me, yet advise i give you is owning and experience in these blocks.
Show me pics of your carb as it is, also give me pic of other issues you might need help with, just concerned i will type good advise and not taken on board
Pete

Trust Pedders, he's very methodical and meticulous (spelling anyone?) but not only that he knows how to get em working. He sorted mine after about 10yrs of it 'not running right'

Thanks for your reply Madferret, i appreciated it and your welcome bud :wink:
Oh your spelling is spot on, i checked google

at the moment im having trouble getting hold of one of them vacuum check value with the two spigot for the vacuum to dizzy and to carb as ive done the same i connected my dizzy to carb  so i need to replace my value thing

Take a picture of your pipe (Servo Vac), do you only have onwe ipe remaining, if so not a problem, the fault can be still cured until you find yourself a replacement part
Pete :wink:

thanks m8 ive finally found the part at my local vw dealer    

just wanted to know why you put a tee piece on back of carb one goes to air box and other goes into servo pipe check valve

why does it go into the check valve thanks  

Peddersgolf said

Can Mods or the like make this a sticky has it as been asked on many occasion, Much appreciated.

You need a t-piece for back of carb, piping from t-piece to carb, left part of t-piece fit piping from there to air filter box as in 1st pic.
Right side of t-piece at back of carb goes to the black and white connector and connect onto left pin of servo pipe as shown in 2nd pic
Then the right pin from servo pipe goes to dizzy.
BUT as in alot of cases some people have snapped one of the pins of the servo pipe, simply add another t-piece and connect both set of pipes.
This is excactly same on all 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 carb'd blocks, thus no need for the green ball, This applies for weber carb conversions
Pete :wink:

Hi newbie here , just fitting Weber 36TLP to 1.5 cab.

Just need clear guide on fitting the vacuum pipes - all the pics seem to have disappeared here and on the 'how to' tutorial..could they possibly be replaced.

Many thanks.

I lost photos in my photobucket, but have a backup.
This is easy how to just follow pics, connection is same on 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 carb blocks.
These pics are form a 1.6, i do have ones from a 1.5 but it is finding them.
You need a T-piece  i.e 3 way plastic adapter and some vac piping shown in last pic is diagram how to connect pipes to give you better idea
Pete :wink:

That's brilliant.  Thanks Pete.

Hi

Excellent explanation on where these vacuum pipes need to be connected and why.  I will check on my cabriolet.

Cheers

Hi Pete,  just checked and that's great for the top air box end of things, but because my son's Cab is a 1.5 auto I think things at the vacuum advance and retard end may be slightly different.  
You show left and right nipples on the servo pipe whereas the auto only seems to have a single nipple.  Do I need to put in an additional T-piece and one way valve and if so which way round does it go. Any ideas.

It's the same as thou a nipple as been broken on the servo pipe as it is common.
My friends 1.5 manual had a broken one, simply as you suggest add another t-piece to the one remaining servo nipple then again follow same as diagram, left side of t piece is the pipe with non return valve going to the carb, then right to dizzy bud.
Hope i explain clearly, if not i am sure i took a pic of my friends as a diagram for others whom broken a nipple on servo pipe, i will look for them and post them up

Peddersgolf said

It's the same as thou a nipple as been broken on the servo pipe as it is common.
My friends 1.5 manual had a broken one, simply as you suggest add another t-piece to the one remaining servo nipple then again follow same as diagram, left side of t piece is the pipe with non return valve going to the carb, then right to dizzy bud.
Hope i explain clearly, if not i am sure i took a pic of my friends as a diagram for others whom broken a nipple on servo pipe, i will look for them and post them up

….and presumably try to seal off the broken nipple so there are no air leaks.

Do you know if replacement pieces with two nipples can still be purchased, and where from?