Pierburg carb 1.8 running fault

HI ALL, NEED SOME ADVICE ON MY 1.8 CLIPPER. I'VE READ WITH INTEREST OTHER MEMBERS PROBLEMS WITH THE OCTOPUS THAT IS A PIERBURG CARB AND I ALSO HAD THE SAME HIGH/ LOW TICKOVER, RUNNING ON PROBLEMS WHICH DEVELOPED INTO SOMETHING MORE SERIOUS, NOW IT'LL SPLUTTER ON FOR LESS THAN 300 YARDS THEN STOP, WAIT 20 SECOUNDS.PUMP THE THROTTLE AND SPLUTTER ON FOR ANOTHER 300 YARDS.
I'VE CHANGED THE PLUGS, LEADS, CAP, COIL, IGNITION MODULE AND FITTED A SECOUND HAND CARB (EBAY) BUT STILL THE SAME FAULT. I DID HAVE TO SWAP SOME ANCILLERIES OVER ON THE CARB,EG A VACUUM POT WITH TWO PIPES AND TWO WIRES ON THE RIGHT HAND REAR OF THE CARB, AND A WATER 'T' WITH A PLUNGER IN THE MIDDLE WHICH FITS ON THE FRONT OF THE CARB AND IS CONNECTED VIA THE HEATER HOSES TO THE CHOKE WAXSTAT UNIT. ALSO A TEMP? SENSOR THAT BOLTS ON TO A BLIND HOLE ON THE FRONT OF THE CARB WITH A WIRE CONNECTED TO A SMALL BLACK DEVICE? WHAT ARE ALL OF THESE THINGS FOR AND COULD THEY BE MY PROBLEM.
#HELP I'VE HAD TO KNICK THE WIFES CITREON .

Sure it isnt something like ignition or valve timing thats out?

You wanna start by dong a compression test (or having a garage do one if you havn't got the bits to do it).  No point on trying to make an engine run properly by changing bits and pieces if you aren't sure its ritgh in the first place or that the valve events all occour when they should.  If this is okay, set the static ignition advance and check that the vacuumm using not only moves the advance gear in the dizzy when sucked upon but also that the vacuumm pipe isn't cracked at either end or split in the middle.

On the carb front - absolute nightmare - either switch it for a fixed choke carb such as a Weber replacement unit or hand it over to a professional to setup - it might cost a little more but it'll save you hours if not days and weeks of mucking about…