mk1 golf notop! *updated original post
Posted
Old Timer
mk1 golf notop! *updated original post
Anyway - you were wanting pics, well on my travels I came across these, 12th, 13th and 15th pics. Enjoy
http://www.volkszone.c…hread.php?t=503145&page=8
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Local Hero
pics look good.
any ideas where this man got his eye brow thingys from?
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Local Hero
Dano said
Strength to the whole body shell may be an issue if you chopped the roll bar. Its an integral part of the car, not just a safety thing.
I've missed what you're intending on using the car for, show or road? And at what speeds? I'd hate to think of it bending in the centre as you entered a bend, could be fatal.
Sounds like a good project though!!
Dan
Lawsy said
I'd suggst if you remove the roll bar to weld a big bar in across the doortops, ok you wont be in the back seats, but at least you'll be adding strngth back in..
Good plans tho
was going to take out rollbar and replace with another one, just wanted too know if i would need to brace it before removing the old one?
i'm open to ideas on bar bars too. was thinking of having one single seat in the back. or would that look stupid?
i must have a seat in the rear for the dog.
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Local Hero
thinking of moounting spare wheel on the boot or on the new piece of metal over the boot. :dontknow:
what you recon?
Posted
Local Hero
or the project will take forever
now if it was adaptorman he have the 9 inch disc cutter out by now trimming and chopping :mrgreen:
Posted
Local Hero
1) strip all unwanted from car. this will leave just the dash and front screen.
AND ALL RUNNING GEAR.
2) cut out top left hand inner doors to leave access to dash bolts.
3)remove all unwanted items with "angle grinder" i.e. wheel well, lips on doors, rear parcel shelf mounts an any other bits not needed.
4)line doors up then weld in situ and weld in plate over wheel well.
5)start on rear cover part for boot.
Posted
Local Hero
here's the pictures
.
well it's a start.
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Local Hero
then
i'm sorting out the roll bar so i can remove the old one without any problems
then i'm cutting the pieces from the doors so that i can remove the dash. then it's time to start on the front window. cut out and replace as i feel fit.
short and plastic maybe (if the original can't be cut).
then the doors will be welded up and and an extra plate placed around where the door lock pins are, so that the the step between the door and the rear part of the frame is made into agradual slope. that will allow my custom door cards (one single card for each side(yes they will be long)) to fit without to much hastle, then its time to look into the covering of the boot.
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Local Hero
and you had to find it.
Posted
Local Hero
1. Whenever you cut out something, you need to add something else back in, to keep the strength
2. A lot of the strength of a modern car is due to the SHAPE of the metal, not just the amount of it. ie, box sections, I frames, H frames, seams, etc etc.
3. Some areas of a car are built with different grades of steel, ie high strength steels in critical body areas.
4. The act of shaping metal and welding itself, changes the strength, due to work hardening, tempering, inadvertent heat treatment of the HAZ, etc.
Posted
Local Hero
get mig of ebay i use a 130 sip
Posted
Local Hero
Of course, Clarke is an entry point really, for pro welders, who'd spend double its price for something robust and smooth to use.
Posted
Local Hero
the only piece being cut out is 2 very small pieces next to the dash bolts (as small as i can get away with). and the rollbar, now that is a large however i do have the help of a man who has a alot of experiance in makng cars from the ground up.
and i have some very good friends who have helped design and build around 30 trikes in the last 5 years.
(my new one is probably going to be an escort diesel.)
welding and fabrication is not any kind of an issue to me.
thanks for all your help paul :mrgreen:
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