Oil pressure light flashes when idling
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#1610951
(In Topic #219948)
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The oil pressure light goes on and off. Seems to shine when idling and then turn off when I accelerate
Posted
Local Hero
little low to me is 1/2 quart.
Bad sensor, bad filter, bad grounds, bad connection on the sender. it is the one on the side of the head.
improper sender on the head is another possibility.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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My dipstick is hard to read because it's behind a couple hoses, so when I pull it out it tends to smear against the sides. In retrospect I was probably a half quart low and now I'm a half quart high.
Briano1234 Sounds like you're thinking it might be a false indicator. Is that theory consistent with the fact that it happens pretty predictably, only when it's idling and warm? I would think a loose sense or something would be more random.
Posted
Local Hero
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Local Hero
The only time my light would glow was when it was about 1 qt low, and I could only see it at night at idle….
I did have to replace the sensor a few times over 350Kmiles (I think I replaced it twice) as they will leak oil and that can spew it out if not caught early….
IIRC the cold pressure (oil is cold is over 90psi.)
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settling In
Posted
Local Hero
Symptoms of wrong/old/insufficient oil or a worn engine and/or oil pump. Could possible be a duff oil pressure regulator/relief valve being stuck open but I believe they usually fail closed increasing oil pressure and blowing oil out of crank seals etc.
Is the oil and filter fresh and upto the correct level?
I'd try a thicker oil or one designed for older high mileage used engines. When it was designed in the 70's the engine oil would have been a 20w50 oil, then VW moved to 10/15w40 and now many modern cars use 0w/30. What have you got in it now?
1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
Posted
Local Hero
I used 10w30 cc/cd in my 81 Diesel rabbit for 20 years, and only had the blinky light when I was low on oil.
Try cleaning or replacing the main grounds Battery to frame and frame to engine.
Also use a good quality filter, not a generic storebranded Frame or Bosch stay with a wix Mann or Mahl, Genuine VW. As the Generic/Storebranded/Bosch/Fram don't have the inbuilt anti-drainback valve that can cause the blinky light from hades at idle.
The Pressure relief valve can stick partially open as I have had that on one of my Cabriolets….
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Settling In
Assuming the oil and the filter are correct, it sounds like the oil pump is the main suspect. Is there any easy way to inspect/diagnose that? Or is it the kind of thing where the test is just putting on a new one?
Also, if it is the pump, should I be worried that it may fail entirely at some point? I'm guessing they don't get BETTER over time ;-)
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Take off sump once drained, drop out oil pump and see how easy the crank drive spins. If it's got any resistance bin it but I was in slight doubt and for £20 I just replaced it
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Local Hero
The rear two between the bellhousing and the engine are a pain and you can strip them easily, when returning those 4 bolts the key is to use a wobble socket extension and hand start them and hand tighten them. They cross thread really really easily, do not use a ratchet on them hand thread them with a screw driver handle only. until the final torque and that torque is 20NM no more no less. That is the Torque of all the oil pan bolts. I have had the windage trays break on me so when you order a pump you might as well order a new windage tray, and the Rubber Gaskets are better than the cork but either way no sealant at all on them.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settling In
Thanks for everyone's help getting to the bottom of this!
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