DX engine wont start - updated with new findings
Posted
#1253245
(In Topic #150224)
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Ok. All wiring has been checked, double checked and triple checked. They're fine.
Fuel pump works a treat.
Fuel lines correctly plumbed to filter and from distributer.
Fuel is comming through filter and the hose to distributer.
Injector lines and warm up lines installed correctly.
After trying to crank theres no fuel on the injector lines coming from the distrubutor (took one out and no fuel pumps out)
Wiring is fine. Spark where there should be one.
Distributer is from original car which drove into the garage 18mths ago
Fuel pump works a treat.
Fuel lines correctly plumbed to filter and from distributer.
Fuel is comming through filter and the hose to distributer.
Injector lines and warm up lines installed correctly.
After trying to crank theres no fuel on the injector lines coming from the distrubutor (took one out and no fuel pumps out)
Wiring is fine. Spark where there should be one.
Distributer is from original car which drove into the garage 18mths ago
Last edit: by Birtymeek
Why did I start this
Posted
Newbie
Is this the first time you have tried to start the car since a rebuild or major work, or is this a car that was running fine until recently? Also when you say fuel lines correctly plumbed to filter and from "distributer", I assume you mean the metering head?Birtymeek said
Ok. All wiring has been checked, double checked and triple checked. They're fine.
Fuel pump works a treat.
Fuel lines correctly plumbed to filter and from distributer.
Fuel is comming through filter and the hose to distributer.
Injector lines and warm up lines installed correctly.
After trying to crank theres no fuel on the injector lines coming from the distrubutor (took one out and no fuel pumps out)
Wiring is fine. Spark where there should be one.
Distributer is from original car which drove into the garage 18mths ago
If I have this right from your post, then you need to carry out the injector test that used to be in the Technical section on the web site - darned if I can find it at the moment, but I'm sure someone else will be along soon to tell you where to find it. The quick answer is that you need to disconnect the coil and earth it, then pull all four injectors out and place them into clear bottles so that you can see the spray pattern and also volume dispensed. To get the fuel to flow, you need to lift the sensor plate in the metering head, whilst the fuel pump is running - the guide tells you how to do this by bridging two of the terminals in the fuse box once the fule pump relay is removed. It's all also in the Haynes manual. Not until you lift the sensor plate will you see any fule coming from the injectors. You need to confirm if you are genuinely not getting fuel through or whether you haven't yet tested them as described above. It can be very confusing & I thought I had the same problem at one time with mine - although it turned out to be the fifth injector!
Hope this helps a little & good luck.
Posted
Settled In
It is the first time ive tried to start the car since Ive rebuilt the car. Engine wise I've replaced all gaskets and thats about it.
I do mean the metering head.
All of this worked prior to the car being stripped down and the metering head has not been fiddled with which is why I struggle to understand its behaviour.
I do mean the metering head.
All of this worked prior to the car being stripped down and the metering head has not been fiddled with which is why I struggle to understand its behaviour.
Why did I start this
Posted
Newbie
OK, would be worth checking that the sensor plate moves up and down without sticking. A stuck sensor plate has been the cause of many non-starting engines. A clean up with some carb cleaner works well. Also make sure that the valve that the sensor plate moves is free in the fuel distribution body.
Posted
Settled In
Ok mate I'll give it a try but first I've got to re-time the damn thing as its knocked itself out. Re-timed it today and made sure belt was tensioned but two turns and the bloody thing was out again. It'll have to wait till after work tomorrow when I have more patience
Why did I start this
Posted
Settled In
Well for now Ive got to try and get the thing turning over again. It stopped turning over cleanly and basically only turns part way. Trying to turn by hand and its really stiff in places but OK in others. Fearing bent valves due to timing being out and 275 cam in, I've stripped the head to check. They are OK
All valves open and close nicely.
Bottom end turns nicely.
Checked flywheel teeth where the starter motor goes and they are all there and nothing looking unusual.
I would suspect the battery if it wasn't new and it charged nicely.
Any ideas?
All valves open and close nicely.
Bottom end turns nicely.
Checked flywheel teeth where the starter motor goes and they are all there and nothing looking unusual.
I would suspect the battery if it wasn't new and it charged nicely.
Any ideas?
Why did I start this
Posted
MOTY 2013
it will be stiff if you crank it by hand with plugs in, as you'rte fighting compression. take all the plugs out and try it should turn over easier. there will be stiff spots where the cam is pressing the springs but it shouldnt be too bad. maybe double check you bought the right type of cam for the head as hydro differ to solid. if its very high spec cam you may need to change valve springs, but needs uber lift lobes for that to be an issue
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Settled In
For now I've removed the cam and put original one back on. The cam I got was a TSR 275 cam so I didn't think it would be too harsh
Why did I start this
Posted
MOTY 2013
yeah im not convinced it woas that just somethign to consider, but if its still doign it on old cam then move on to other things! could be startwer is packing in, or battery cables want cleanign/replacing
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
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Hmm. Battery wiring new and all earths checked. Also, anticipating starter motor issues, I borrowed two others which definitely work off a mate. Still nothing
Getting more than a little fed up with the car now
Getting more than a little fed up with the car now
Why did I start this
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
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I see. Sounds similar I think. Keep noseying cos I get my new head gasket and head bolts tomorrow so I'll be able to get going again. Decided to get another cam belt incase that's stretched out of shape or anything
Why did I start this
Posted
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Oh, forgot to mention folks, in relation to the original fuel issue, when stripping down I found that the 5th injector was getting fuel, just not 1 to 4 injector
Why did I start this
Posted
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So to update on the current state of play.
Engine was turning over nicely but no fuel from injectors 1-4 but fuel to 5th. Plate checked and moves nice a free.
Like i say engine was working but now only does partial turn.
Valves are not bent (took head off and checked)
Teeth on flywheel for starter are all there and no seen movement in flywheel
With spark plugs out engine turns by hand nicely
Cant hear fuel pump anymore but all fuses are fine
Another new battery tried and still no luck
3 starter motors tried and same result
Putting starters to battery, they spit out starter gear violently but dont spin?
12v + shown on switched live for starter when ignition turned
Any ideas
Engine was turning over nicely but no fuel from injectors 1-4 but fuel to 5th. Plate checked and moves nice a free.
Like i say engine was working but now only does partial turn.
Valves are not bent (took head off and checked)
Teeth on flywheel for starter are all there and no seen movement in flywheel
With spark plugs out engine turns by hand nicely
Cant hear fuel pump anymore but all fuses are fine
Another new battery tried and still no luck
3 starter motors tried and same result
Putting starters to battery, they spit out starter gear violently but dont spin?
12v + shown on switched live for starter when ignition turned
Any ideas
Why did I start this
Posted
Life Member
Ginner said
everyone who went on the German road trip was baffled by this.
No they weren't, they just laughed!!!
Posted
Local Hero
Do you know why the original cam timing had"knocked itself out by a couple of teeth" that didn't sound right to me when I read the thread.
Are you saying the engine cranks half turn but then locks up? Does it spin over ok without the plugs in on the starter?
Have you tried using a jump lead as an earth lead from the block direct to the battery to bypass the cars own earth leads?
If you have fuel at the 5th injector but not the others then I would losen one of the injector pipes on top of the metering head and with the fuel pump running (by frigging the relay) lift up the flap on the metering head and you should get fuel coming out of the loosened pipe.
Are you saying the engine cranks half turn but then locks up? Does it spin over ok without the plugs in on the starter?
Have you tried using a jump lead as an earth lead from the block direct to the battery to bypass the cars own earth leads?
If you have fuel at the 5th injector but not the others then I would losen one of the injector pipes on top of the metering head and with the fuel pump running (by frigging the relay) lift up the flap on the metering head and you should get fuel coming out of the loosened pipe.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
checking it out on youtube was how i sussed mine , that was before i read that guide "k jet made easy" ,
Posted
Settled In
Yomp said
Do you know why the original cam timing had"knocked itself out by a couple of teeth" that didn't sound right to me when I read the thread.
Are you saying the engine cranks half turn but then locks up? Does it spin over ok without the plugs in on the starter?
Have you tried using a jump lead as an earth lead from the block direct to the battery to bypass the cars own earth leads?
If you have fuel at the 5th injector but not the others then I would losen one of the injector pipes on top of the metering head and with the fuel pump running (by frigging the relay) lift up the flap on the metering head and you should get fuel coming out of the loosened pipe.
I can only assume that the timing came out because the belt was too loose. But the timing is all sorted and the belt perfectly tensioned
Yes the engine only does a part turn then stops.
Not tried turning over on starter without plugs in so will do that today
Not tried a jump lead from block to battery so if I can find one then I'll give it a try. Cant see that doing it though considering that it was turning recently with all wiring and earths in place
I'll try that with the metering head but I need to figure why the fuel pump is no longer active first
Why did I start this
Posted
Local Hero
The fuel pump relay may kick infor a couple of seconds when the ignition is first put on. I say may as some do and some dont.
It won't pump again until the engine is cranking and the fuel pump relay is receiving a pulse from the dizzy. If your engines not turning over then you won't be getting a pulse to the pump relay.
See if it spins without the plugs in and let us know.
Regards the starters they are pre-engage so will throw out the cog before they turn.
It won't pump again until the engine is cranking and the fuel pump relay is receiving a pulse from the dizzy. If your engines not turning over then you won't be getting a pulse to the pump relay.
See if it spins without the plugs in and let us know.
Regards the starters they are pre-engage so will throw out the cog before they turn.
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