thermostat and fan?
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(In Topic #116555)
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thermostat and fan?
Posted
Old Timer
Is the cooling system all connected up correctly??
If that's correct then you'll need to check the switch in the rad is wired up and everything connected as it should be. Have you got power the the fan? or the earth for that matter…
You didn't say if you have the original fan running or an aftermarket item..?
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White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
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Old Timer
to check the thermostat below water pump - check if the bottom pipe of the radiator gets hot , if it doesnt you have no Flow through your radiator - hence the thermoswitch will also have no flow & only see cold water - of course maybe through thermal transfer the radiator would eventually! get hot
If the pipe does get very hot - i would say the thermoswitch is probably faulty
the bottom pipe should start feeling hot at approx 5-10 mins of the car running from cold.
hope this helps
baz
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Old Timer
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Old Timer
The first time you fill the water system - run the car with header tank cap off - when the thermostat opens there will be sudden rush of air bubbles from the radiator coming up to the header tank(its not boiling) - when this happens sw of engine let car cool then do the procedure again a couple of times - then on the fourth time run the car with the cap on the header tank ( pressurized system will have a higher boiling point )
keep an eye on water temp gauge though
this is what i do when changing the coolant
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Old Timer
I can only speak for a 8v dx engine - may be its a prob related to the 16v
I take it the water is boiling inside the header tank with the system sealed
does it overheat on run or just when its idling
the thermostat seems ok from your discrip
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Old Timer
The temp sender sits on the primary cct ( so to speak ) so this would probably tell me the secondary cct ( radiator cct is not opening or blocked ) so when your driving there is not enough water flowing through the radiator to cool the engine & the primary cct just gets hotter & hotter
i would def replace the thermoswitch and thermostat for all the cost from gsf & flush the radiator
ps gsf do a lower cut-in thermoswitch that i have fitted to my mk1 ( my fan cuts in just over the half way mark on the gauge )
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MOTY 2013
As its warming up feel the bottom rad hose, it should stay stone cold till the gauge gets to about half way, then it should get hot pretty quickly. Keep going till the hoses get too hot to touch, or you see the level of coolant start to rise up/bopil in the tank. switch off and refit the cap.
The fan should kick in at 3/4 on the gauge, if it doesnt and the fan comes on when you bridge the fan temp sensor plug pins, you either have a blocked radiator, poor coolanrt flow or a broken sensor.
To help diagnose the above, feel the side of the radiator where the sensor is, it should be just as hot as the opposite end. If not you have a blockage.
Also the system will boil over if it cannot pressurise, which buggers up the cooling system as you end up with air around the sensors. a common reason for this is the header tank cap, since they're so cheap its worth buying a new one regardless.
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