8v GTi PROBLEM HELP ***LATEST UPDATE 9th MAY***
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Local Hero
8v GTi PROBLEM HELP ***LATEST UPDATE 9th MAY***
are you 100% sure your ht leads are in the right order and the timing is set up?
rebuild in progress....
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Local Hero
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cabriaulait said
bren
are you 100% sure your ht leads are in the right order and the timing is set up?
watcha champ. i am certain of it matey.
wooders said
no. the coil should not get that hot. that's wrong. try leaning the duel off a bit, maybe 1/4 turn and see what happens.
bought a brand spanking new coil yesterday and put that on so thats that sorted now too.
as for leaning the fuel off cabrialait has told me how to do it. a 3mm allen key via the metering head. i have now finally found it. its that long tube bit sticking out just after the plate correct? and apparently according to my mate the bit you have to turn is quite a way down there so i ordered a set of extended long allen keys as i dont have one that will fit.
(there's a lot of unintended innuendo in that paragraph so try to ignore it!)
anyway, cabrialait said that if when you press the brake and the revs die that means the car is running to rich. mine does this to the point that it tries to cut out whenever i brake whilst coming up to a junction. then it went from idling on the driveway at 1100 to about 500 during pumping the brake pedal. BUT, i cant correct that till my new allen key set arrives which will be tomorrow.
thanks for the input and ideas people keep them coming!!
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Local Hero
still think theres a timing problem judging by that vid specially as the coil was getting hot that sugests some kind of short.
im no sparky!lol
i reckon lean it off loads, he says puttin his money where his mouth is
(i love curly wurlys) :wink:
rebuild in progress....
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cabriaulait said
i reckon lean it off loads, he says puttin his money where his mouth is
(i love curly wurlys) :wink:
thats what i'll do then matey!!!
i'll update the thread as soon as i get the job done. as usual thanks for your help and ideas :wink:
p.s EVERYONE LOVES CURLY WURLYS!! thats why its the perfect reward!!
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only problem is now starting from cold the car revs its &^%'s off at about 3000rpm. this happens right up to the time it gets hot again.
its really annoying because as i change gear and click into neutral it revs itself so teh gearchanges tend to be pretty jumpy
plus when coming up to a junction i still struggle uing the brakes when its up to temperture as the revs STIL try to die!!!
judging by this would people agree with cabrialait that the cars timing is out????????
as usual let me know!!
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Local Hero
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paul_c said
Have you measured the CO when cold and warm? Have you checked the ignition timing? If so, what are the relevant values?
Paul!!!
no i haven't checked the CO yet but will as soon as gear arrives. when i do what should i be looking for?
as for the ignition timing how do i go about doing that champ?
thanks for your help matey
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Local Hero
bren said
paul_c said
Have you measured the CO when cold and warm? Have you checked the ignition timing? If so, what are the relevant values?
Paul!!!
no i haven't checked the CO yet but will as soon as gear arrives. when i do what should i be looking for?
as for the ignition timing how do i go about doing that champ?
thanks for your help matey
Stop fiddling with things on the car, while it still at least runs!!!!!! If you fiddle any more, there's a chance you'll set it to something way out, and it won't start again, and you'll have forgotten what you've fiddled with!
Start and run the car until its warm
1. Set the ignition timing so its on the marker on the pulley, or thereabouts.
2. Set the idle so its around 950rpm
3. Set the CO so its 1.5%, maybe 2.0% if you like
4. Let it cool down again, restart it and through the warm up at idle, check its not too far off 1.5-2%.
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wooders said
i can't believe you've come seven pages on and still not checked/adjusted timing.
you'd better believe it!!!
i had a stupid amount of work done at a garage a while back and assumed( ops: ) that they would've done it. i'm guessing that was a mistake.
the garage who said they were "VW specialist" also bridged my fuel pump relay. said he had sorted the problem, then 1 week later when it was playing up again after covering about 2 miles said i would be best off breaking the car for parts as its not worth messing about with.
plus wooders, i am a beginner with mechanics and believe this, i am trying my absolute best with this car! :wink:
paul_c said
Stop fiddling with things on the car, while it still at least runs!!!!!! If you fiddle any more, there's a chance you'll set it to something way out, and it won't start again, and you'll have forgotten what you've fiddled with!
Start and run the car until its warm
1. Set the ignition timing so its on the marker on the pulley, or thereabouts.
2. Set the idle so its around 950rpm
3. Set the CO so its 1.5%, maybe 2.0% if you like
4. Let it cool down again, restart it and through the warm up at idle, check its not too far off 1.5-2%.
once again Paul sorry to appear stupid but as i've pointed out to wooders, when it comes to mechanics i am the stupidest, how do i check the ignition timing against the marker on the pulley?? what does it look like??
thanks once again for your help lads. please bear with me!!!! ops:
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Local Hero
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paul_c said
Get it to another garage and let them do it. Or, get it to me and I'll sort you out.
where abouts are you based!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Local Hero
bren said
paul_c said
Get it to another garage and let them do it. Or, get it to me and I'll sort you out.
where abouts are you based!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheshire
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performed loads of tests today and had a mate come over who knows alot more about engines than me. he set it up, timing is not out and never was, he also fitted a new working WUR. the revs also dont die out when i press the brake anymore.
he has now sorted the car so that it didn't cut out after i drove it around for 40mins. ran better than it ever has since i have owned it.
turned it off for 15 mins then tried to start it again and it wouldn't fire up.
loss of fuel pressure some how?? so it suffers with fuel starvation as soon as you try to start it whilst its hot.
any new ideas people??????
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Local Hero
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paul_c said
Did he swap the fuel banto bolts and washers with new ones when he changed the WUR? Is it weeping fuel from any joins in the system? Was the WUR he swapped onto it a known good one from another car, or a 'spare'? If all these check out ok, I'd say its dirty/blocked filter or rust/dirt in the fuel tank or fuel lines, or a worn fuel pump, giving low pressure. This issue tends to reveal itself at cold, because the car needs higher fuel pressure at cold (because the control pressure is higher, so the injectors remain open for longer, etc).
yes swapped banjo bolts etc with new ones.
the WUR is off a car that works perfectly.
no weeping fuel from anywhere although still does smell strong of petrol
you say about the fuel pump giving low pressure shows itself at cold starts but they are fine, its only when the engine is hot that it will not start.
would a knackered fuel pump effect hot starts???
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Local Hero
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