Oil light on after oil change
Posted
#696297
(In Topic #84012)
Old Timer
Oil light on after oil change
Changed the oil yesterday including new filter. It obviously hadn't been done for some time as the oil was very dirty.
Filled it up and drove around later that evening (about 30 miles ish) with no problems, then when I statr up and pull away to go to work I get the oil light and buzzer.
Plenty of nice clean oil and fine on idle then when I start off I get the light and buzzer.
Please help, getting very fed up of consistent problems.
Ta, Dave
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Posted
Member 125 - 2005
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Posted
Old Timer
Is this the problem :dontknow:
Help :cry:
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Posted
Local Hero
sometimes goes okay after a few days.
Regards Volkswarren
X2 1983 A REG EW CAMPAIGN In WHITE(Awaiting full rebuild solid body) & T Reg S1 GTi Project, Still Looking for Series 1 GTi's or a 16S Oettinger to restore (Complete Cars only) or an A reg Lhasa Green or White Gti to restore, also consider Black, Red or Blue, Also Golf Driver Project Wanted anything considered WHY
X2 1983 A REG EW CAMPAIGN In WHITE(Awaiting full rebuild solid body) & T Reg S1 GTi Project, Still Looking for Series 1 GTi's or a 16S Oettinger to restore (Complete Cars only) or an A reg Lhasa Green or White Gti to restore, also consider Black, Red or Blue, Also Golf Driver Project Wanted anything considered WHY
Posted
Old Timer
This morning started it up and all was well (normal, anyway) and as I revved it nothing happened until about 3000 revs when the light and buzzer flicked on.
It seemed to be running okay and I've been for a little drive to get it up to temperature and there's no problems (apart from the stalling problem, think it's the carb )
So it's running smoothly and sounds good, no noise from the bottom end.
So was this a random glitch and does anyone think I need to do something else? :dontknow:
Any advice would be appreciated, ta.
Yradave says relax.
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Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Settling In
Posted
Local Hero
If the pressure is generally low, you could replace the oil pump.
If there are 'dips', this suggests a blockage in the small oil lines somewhere, so given the cost of a new motor, probably best to just replace the whole engine.
Posted
Old Timer
The new filter is an 'ETL' :dontknow: , I used the one they had at my local parts shop, the one that came off was a Fram. Will it matter a lot if I don't use OEM parts?
I was going to fit an oil pressure guage at some point, may make it a priority. Any suggestions as to where to buy and how difficult it will be to fit?
Don't like the sound of a new engine, though ops:
Ta, Dave
Yradave says relax.
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Posted
Local Hero
yradave said
Right just got in from work, seems to be running okay still.
The new filter is an 'ETL' :dontknow: , I used the one they had at my local parts shop, the one that came off was a Fram. Will it matter a lot if I don't use OEM parts?
I was going to fit an oil pressure guage at some point, may make it a priority. Any suggestions as to where to buy and how difficult it will be to fit?
Don't like the sound of a new engine, though ops:
Ta, Dave
The engine side of fitting the gauge is 1 sensor to unbolt and 1 new sensor to connect. Remake (or make a small adapter wire) 1 electrical connection and also route 1 more wire from the engine bay to the dashboard. The gauge itself needs earth, gauge sensor electrical wire from engine bay, +12V (ignition switched), dash illumination.
I forgot to mention, if its not electrical issues it could be that the newer, thinner oil has exposed a pre-existing fault/worn out engine.
Posted
Old Timer
paul_c said
I forgot to mention, if its not electrical issues it could be that the newer, thinner oil has exposed a pre-existing fault/worn out engine.
The thought that clean oil has uncovered a previously hidden problem has crossed my mind, however I've only had the car a few weeks so I don't have that much basis for what condition it's in.
I was hoping that it's not any excessive wear in the engine as it's only done 90,000 miles but I suppose without servicing etc………….
Yradave says relax.
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Posted
Local Hero
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