Where does the ground for the thermotime switch goes?
Posted
#1669833
(In Topic #240516)
Newbie
Got earth problem with my thermotime switch. Green White cable
I need to help to find out where does the green/White cable go? Where is it earthed? I cant fint it…
Would love if someone helped me out.
Cheers
Posted
Local Hero
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Newbie
Would like it to work as it should.
Could it be that the thermotime is grounded where its bolted?
Posted
Local Hero
If the manufacturer of things has a Isolated circuit design then you will have two to 3 wires out of a Seding unit and one of them is usually ground.
IE: my 90's cabbies used a ground wire to the 2 sensors for Water temps, one was coolant temp to gauge and one was coolant temp for the "puter". Since the flanges were plastic, they needed a separate Ground. even the 16v CTS sensor had separate grounds for it.
Ground is Brown…
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Newbie
Should i ground the green/white extra? Then it works aa it should
Or is there a Brown ground AT the fusebox for this?
Thanks for the answers
Posted
Settled In
The green/ white is not an earth, it goes back to the cold start valve. The earth is supplied through the metal body of the thermo time switch, through the engine and back to the battery. If the switch isn't switching to ground it's either broken, not grounded to the engine properly or the coolant is not cold enough. Remember if the engine coolant is above a certain temperature you do not need the cold start
Last edit: by Steve1973
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Newbie
If the engine is less the. 30c it should work?
When I turn the key over with a multimeter plugged it just shows like 0.89-0.95. If i add extra earth to the green/White it shows 12v for like a sec as it should.
Then i guess that its not enough earth?
I bought one from autodoc. A copy.
Which one should i buy? Brand? Got any tips?
/Andreas
Posted
Local Hero
I do have a few decades of VW electrics, and almost 50 years electrics as living.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Newbie
Posted
Old Timer
First test would be to measure the resistance across the red/black terminal and the body - this will be the resistance of the heater coil. Don't know what it should be but it shouldn't be very high or 0. If it measures something then put it in the fridge for a bit, then measure continuity (beep) across the green/white terminal and the body - at this point it should be 0 or a beep on your multimeter (switch is closed). Stick it in some hot water and repeat test, this time you should be open circuit (switch open).
The heater coil is desined to open the switch after a period of time so that you don't have the CSV firing all the time.
When it is in situ you should measure the resistance between the body and battery -ve. This should be very low and indicates a good earth. Probably also worth checking engine block to -ve to make sure that is good first.
Might just be a case of cleaning the mating face of the thermotime switch to the output flange, might just be a build up of crud/scale from any water.
Bit of 400 grit on a flat block to clean it up.
Posted
Newbie
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